eco_game

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[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Same! I'm lowkey tempted to get a fancy one now, but deep down I know it just isn't worth it.

[–] [email protected] 12 points 1 week ago (2 children)

https://github.com/Akylas/OSS-DocumentScanner

I use this app for scanning documents, I just tried sharing a picture to the app and running OCR on that picture, which also worked fine, so it should also fit your usecase.

[–] [email protected] 5 points 1 week ago

Damn even though you explained the abbreviation I still read it as Wife Approval Factor for a second and was very confused

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 week ago

If you care to minimize Standby power "comfortably", usually libraries or power companies will let you borrow an AC Power Meter free of charge.

You can use that to inspect your various devices Standby Power. For example I have an amplifier that pulls nearly 15W in standby, since finding out it lives on a smart plug.

However my TV pulls less than 1W, and at that point I prefer the convenience of just being able to use the remote to turn it on.

(Also keep in mind with the smart plug solution that the plug itself will pull a little bit of power too, this will pretty much always be <1W though.)

[–] [email protected] 3 points 3 weeks ago

I don't know how it works in America, but in Germany and presumably most parts of Europe, red light cameras are triggered by coils under the road (similar to speed cameras). There's usually one coil right past the stopping line (for cars being halfway over) and another coil somewhere closer to the center of the intersection (for fully running a red light).

[–] [email protected] 24 points 3 weeks ago (11 children)

If your hate only goes towards touchscreens and not having physical buttons, Mazda is (or at least was) very anti-touchscreen. I haven't done any research on their current stance or if they have good EVs, but a neighbor of mine was really happy with his Mazda ICE car for having a button for everything.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

It's not a full car or even entertainment system, but comma.ai is an opensource autonomous driving software. Last time I looked into this was a few years ago, but basically for most newer cars you can rip out the adaptive cruise control, and effevtively replace it with autonomous driving. Either powered by certain supported phones or dedicated hardware.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

I can one-up that: I bought Java Edition around 2016, claimed the free Bedrock license in 2017, then claimed the other license for each of my original licenses when the accounts merged. I'm still surprised that that worked lol

[–] [email protected] 24 points 1 month ago (2 children)

In that case you can try adding before:2023 or similar to your search

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago

You could try getting a Raspberry Pi Zero together with some kind of SPDIF output card, but that will probably go over $30.

I have no idea what pricing is like, but you could possibly try getting a used Logitech Squeezebox player.

If you're desperate to stay on the cheap and don't mind BT quality, you could also install Snapcast on an old phone, enable the Snapcast player provider and then use the phone to connect to your speakers over Bluetooth.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago

Imo it looks to be very bloated for what I want. I don't need (or necessarily want) a GPS track for the whole journey, but rather just start and endpoint. I intend to tell the distance from my cars odometer.

Also I already started making my own app by now anyway and I'm far too committed to consider other options lol

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

I'd recommend the Sony Xperia lineup, but it seems as though the IV and V devices aren't supported by LineageOS (maybe just not yet?).

The Sony Xperia 1 III or 5 III might be fitting for you though.

19
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/android
 

Hey everyone, I'm looking for a driving journal app, to track when, to/from where and which distance I drive.

Ideally I'd like for it to be FOSS, but if there are decent Closed Source apps I'm ok with it too (I'd just block Network Access in Graphene OS then).

This post (not mine) has pretty much my ideal criteria, but sadly didn't get any answers: https://softwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/88349/drivers-logbook-app-for-android-foss

Unlike the above post, I don't want this for tax purposes etc., but rather just to understand where all my distance driven comes from.

Edit: I've done some more research and haven't found anything, for now I'll just use an OnlyOffice spreadsheet. If I find the time, I might try developing an app for this at some point.

Edit 2: After developing my app for a week and then showing it to a friend, he instantly found exactly what I was working on...

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.liefers.driverslogpro

 

cross-posted from: https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/13702771

Beware of used Pixels with a replaced screen

I very recently bought a used Pixel 6 with a replacement screen, not thinking too much of it. I even made sure that the screen looked good during pickup.

One thing I missed though, was that apparently my Pixel doesn't have a fingerprint sensor anymore. I did some research, apparently it's quite easy to break the fingerprint sensor (or some places simply just don't include a sensor in the repair?) when replacing the screen.

Today I also noticed (through Show refresh rate in developer options) that my screen will only do 60 Hz as well.

Also I have stupidly high battery drain, I'm not 100% if that's related though.

Long story short, learn from my mistakes and either don't buy a used phone with a replacement screen or carefully test all functionalities associated with the screen, mainly high refresh rate and the fingerprint sensor.

28
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

I very recently bought a used Pixel 6 with a replacement screen, not thinking too much of it. I even made sure that the screen looked good during pickup.

One thing I missed though, was that apparently my Pixel doesn't have a fingerprint sensor anymore. I did some research, apparently it's quite easy to break the fingerprint sensor (or some places simply just don't include a sensor in the repair?) when replacing the screen.

Today I also noticed (through Show refresh rate in developer options) that my screen will only do 60 Hz as well.

Also I have stupidly high battery drain, I'm not 100% if that's related though.

Long story short, learn from my mistakes and either don't buy a used phone with a replacement screen or carefully test all functionalities associated with the screen, mainly high refresh rate and the fingerprint sensor.

2
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

As the Oculus store is officially dead, it may be a bit harder to come by Gear VR apps and games. This website (the gearvr.net vault) aims to provide an archive of many Gear VR apps.

 

If you have a Galaxy S10 (or S10e / S10+) with Android 12, it won't work with Gear VR. There is a small chance that you're still able to downgrade to Android 11, but sadly it's very unlikely.

To check if your device can be downgraded, find its BIT / BINARY value.

From my research looking at the ROMs on samfw.com, it seems that your BIT has to be E or lower. In other words, if your S10 has been updated in any way since May 2022, it will have a too high BIT value to downgrade to Android 11.

 
 

Even though the Oculus Login doesn't work anymore, you can still use and "initialiize" Gear VR in 2024.

Prerequisites:

  • a phone capable of Gear VR and a matching Gear VR HMD (Compatibility Guide)
  • your phone has to running Android 11 or below
  • (a working internet connection)

Guide:

Start by inserting your phone into your Gear VR. It should launch first time setup and prompt you to take it out again. Go through the first time setup and let it download all the necessary Oculus services.

After downloading, you should get prompted to login. From my attempts there isn't really a way to login, unless you have certain legacy accounts linked to a Meta account properly. But don't worry - there's another way.

Go into your phone settings -> apps -> Gear VR Service -> Storage -> Manage Storage. Now tap "VR Service Version" multiple times, until you get a message telling you that Developer mode is now enabled.

You should now see the following settings:

  1. Developer mode
  2. Add icon to app list
  3. Allow VR API without OSIG
  4. Mirroring mode

If they aren't enabled already, enable the second and third settings. You should now see "Gear VR Service" in your app drawer. You can use this to launch any installed Gear VR app. Simply install APKs and the apps will show up here.

To launch an app, select it in the Gear VR Service app, and you should be prompted to insert your phone into your Gear VR.

As you aren't logged into Oculus, Oculus Home won't work properly. This means you will have to take your phone out of your Gear VR to switch apps.

 

One of my first hurdles with Gear VR was trying to cast my (Pop! OS) laptop screen to my Gear. There are some low latency solutions using a proprietary Nvidia app or Moonlight, but as the S7 in my Gear VR isn't capable of running non-VR apps in VR, that was a no go.

The solution is very simple. As long as your computer and Gear VR phone are on the same network (also works if your laptop is on your phone's hotspot or vice versa), you can use the FOSS software Deskreen on your computer (Mac, Windows, Linux) to stream your screen to other network devices.

After installing Deskreen, simply open the Oculus Browser on your phone (for me on my S7 it doesn't work with Samsung Internet) and navigate to the URL given to you by Deskreen. After then accepting the connection on your PC, you can fullscreen the stream on your Gear VR.

Done! Now you have a reasonably low-latency stream of your computer in your Gear VR.

 

I recently got a Samsung Gear VR and noticed that even though there is a moderately sized subreddit for it, it doesn't have a lemmy presence, so I decided to fix that:

Gear VR

[email protected] https://discuss.tchncs.de/c/gearvr

The community is for anything regarding Gear VR, be it asking questions, guides for making stuff work, maybe showing off a good deal you got, ...

2
First post (discuss.tchncs.de)
 

Hello fellow Gear VR enthusiasts,

I recently found a very cheap used Gear VR (SM-R322), and as I had an S7 sitting in a drawer collecting dust, I thought I'd try it out.

Even though it's been discontinued for over 3 years, the platform is still surprisingly usable. The only major drawback is that you can't login to the Oculus app anymore, which means (at least according to my current research) you need to take the phone out of the Gear VR whenever you want to switch apps. (As Oculus Home doesn't work without being logged in).

During my search for stuff to do with Gear VR, I noticed that it has a decently sized subreddit, but no lemmy presence, so I decided to fix that!

If you have questions about the platform, want to show off a cheap find, or anything else, feel free to post here!

19
submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

I'm trying to find a way to stream my monitor to Apple TVs in my school via AirPlay. I've already done some research and it seems like there are currently no software solutions, with the closest one being openairplay, however it seems to be pretty dead.

I "need" AirPlay, as my school only uses Apple TVs, and it's quite inconvenient to always bring my HDMI cable and have to hook up to projectors that way.

I'm also open to more scuffed solutions, as I won't be going to that school for much longer. Some things I have thought of so far are:

  1. Using my old iPhone 6 (maybe jailbreak it, I don't think that matters here though) and something like deskreen to first cast my laptop screen to the iPhone and then AirPlay from there. I'd expect this to work, but it wouldn't be much less cumbersome than just using HDMI directly, and it would also mean having to carry that iPhone and a charging cable for it with me all the time.
  2. Using a Mac OS virtual machine with something like OSX-KVM, then possibly buying a WiFi card with AirPlay support and passing it through to the VM in combination with a similar deskreen solution as in 1. This also seems pretty complicated, and I'm not even sure if it would work at all.

Does anyone here have any experience with this, know of any better solutions (I'm also open to more scuffed solutions), or maybe even tried one of my scuffed methods already?

26
submitted 5 months ago* (last edited 5 months ago) by [email protected] to c/techsupport
 

This isn't a question but rather a solution to a problem I couldn't find anywhere online, apologies if this is the wrong community.


If you have a Lenovo laptop (in my case a T14 thinkpad) and your display dims after about 30 seconds, no matter what you specify in Windows settings, you might have to disable the "Zero-Touch-Lock". You can do this in the Lenovo Vantage Software (in my case called "Lenovo Commercial Vantage") in the menu "Smart Assist".

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