curiousPJ

joined 2 years ago
MODERATOR OF
[–] curiousPJ 4 points 3 months ago

Here's the issue I have with your position... AI is such a generic term it's difficult to have a fulfilling conversation using it but in my field a form of AI like machine learning is going to eliminate an entire sector of manufacturing... Boutique precision machined components have been thought as an impenetrable wall against AI but it's basically the same lackluster defense used not long ago about Generative images couldn't produce hands properly... It's not a matter of if but when.

Imo, the catastrophe happens when a successful AI scales. Or perhaps rather how suddenly a successful AI model will bury the existing system into irrelevancy. Boeing and most aerospace manufacturers have a machinist union but none of that will protect against a future where people are no longer necessary.

I don't think it's wrong to have AI eliminate jobs but it shouldn't come without warning. I think it's rather forward looking to be monitoring ongoing AI projects and establish contingencies for folks who will become displaced by it's rapid spread.

[–] curiousPJ 2 points 3 months ago (1 children)

Trying to get capto systems for the multi-task lathes and zero-point pallets for the mills. I do prototyping and it's the only way to stay sane.

[–] curiousPJ 9 points 4 months ago (3 children)

If your power consumption is actually 250 then go for a 500w PSU. You'll get better efficiency.

Anandtech (rip) used to be my go-to for PSU efficiency curves.

[–] curiousPJ 2 points 4 months ago (1 children)

Ah a Joe Pie classic. If you've seen his videos, you know.

[–] curiousPJ 3 points 6 months ago* (last edited 6 months ago)

Death stranding directors cut. I'm 10 hours in and having wayyy to much fun with the gameplay loop. Still on chapter 2.

[–] curiousPJ 41 points 6 months ago (1 children)

Maybe for the generic cat/dog image sharing boards but niche topics like machining are still thriving.

[–] curiousPJ 4 points 6 months ago

3am... Need to be up in 4hrs...

Imma need me some 4 fairy soup.

[–] curiousPJ 3 points 6 months ago (2 children)

I’m pretty sure they would have to upload millions of pictures of their own creation first.

From the YouTube guides in generating your own Lora models... Naa just a couple reference poses and it's ready to go.

[–] curiousPJ 2 points 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago)

a yes, the ~~tuned~~ mass damper.

De-vibe bars work in a... uh.. similar manner.

[–] curiousPJ 6 points 7 months ago

Somehow I get the feeling Valve still had some lingering feelings about the failure of Valve's TF2 comp and they're trying to right their wrongs.

[–] curiousPJ 6 points 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) (1 children)

I wonder if that shares the same physics as silvent's compressed air guns.

Silvent’s air nozzles reduce the sound level when blowing with compressed air compared to blowing through open pipes. This is due in part to the reduction in noisy turbulence from using Silvent’s air nozzles, and also because of the nozzles’ special design. Silvent’s air nozzles pass the compressed air through small holes and slots, which raises the sound to frequencies beyond what the human ear can perceive. This allows us to make blowing with compressed air both quiet and efficient.

Could use an even quieter compressed air gun

[–] curiousPJ 2 points 7 months ago

I feel like it's more "thank us for believing in the right god"

 
 

Nandert is in my opinion the best channel for Los Angeles county metro projects.

3
The Pucker Factor (www.youtube.com)
submitted 1 year ago by curiousPJ to c/machinists
 

Makino makes very informative presentations

 

Madlad I say. Crazy.

 

I've owned the DT 1990 Pro for a couple years now and it's absolutely the best set of headphones I've ever used. But fairly recently the creaking issues that many other users reported have crept up to me.

https://imgur.com/Tvxdfqa

https://imgur.com/X9aIbz8

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/beyerdynamic-dt-1990-pro-beyers-open-back-mastering-headphone.814629/page-93#post-13962732

Basically anytime I moved my head around I would hear what sounded like a piece of plastic being rubbed against another piece and causing creaking noises. I tried to tolerate it but alas it was too much.


The Problem

The molded plastic of the earcup and the plastic frame of the driver are sitting in a way to cause minute rocking when the headband flexes the earcup from head movement. Imagine the outer plastic as an ellipse and the driver as a circle within the ellipse. The circular driver will be free to rock within the ellipse shape of the outer plastic. Even if the driver finds a point to settle, flex introduced into the cans via headband will cause distortion which forces displacement of the drivers causing creaking.

Although, perhaps the driver isn't meant to be 'over-constrained'... To explain further, the retaining ring clips on to the earcup and compresses the foam pad and driver which also has a soft pliable material glued to rest against 3 prongs on the ear cup. This technically prevents the driver from flying about in the earcup. Where it gets over-constrained is from the frame of the driver making many many point/area contact around the earcup. Thus causing a binding condition to occur.


Solution

One purported solution was to loosen the two T6 flat head screws that hold the earcup. This reduces the amount of earcup flex caused by the headband which does reduce the amount of creaking but will not eliminate it all together.

The solution then is to restrain the driver within the earcup in a way it wont creak.

You'll need to take it apart to access the driver.

Dissembly

  1. Remove the earpads, plenty of videos on how to do this but all it only takes a light pull to remove it. random 3min YT video

  2. Unclip the retainer. I found it easiest to wedge a flat head down into the smallest of the 4 tabs. Small push no prying. See image. https://imgur.com/20dG9Ma Once one came out the rest came out easily.

  3. Now you'll have access to the driver. Mind the location of the key and push down around the driver. It didn't take much force to cause the creaking. See image https://imgur.com/Qb4V1lJ

On my particular headphone I noticed an up-down creak (relative to the picture).

  1. To remove the driver, place your hand over the driver in preparation to catch it then flip the earcup over. It should just drop out. A couple taps was necessary for me.

  2. Shim one side where the creaking was the worst. I chose to use a piece of teflon tape, it's thin and I suppose the reduced friction helps? The plastic frame of the driver is fairly skinny so I cut the tape in half.

This is where you might have to take it differently since your earcup/driver dimensions&form(shape) will be different. I did consider taking a file to it and shaving off a bit around the perimeter so the driver isn't over-constrained but I didn't want to go that route unless necessary.

  1. Put it all back together.

Conclusion

It was fun looking for a solution. Root cause analysis is something I attempt do all the time as an R&D machinist.

It's a huge relief to not have to put these headphones away either. Since these are the most priciest set I have.

Let me know if this worked out for you.

 

Hyper-specialized machines to drive those cycles times down.

That 'ring' cutter is crazy mad. https://youtu.be/xPxpuna-GuM?t=278

 

https://www.streetsforall.org/initiatives/south-bay-c-line-extension

See the link above for more details.

Sept 19 (Tuesday) - 6pm

Redondo Beach City Council

Sept 20 (Wednesday) - 1pm

Metro Planning & Programming Committee

Sept 21 (Thursday) - 11am

Metro Executive Management Committee

Please subscribe to nandert if you're interested about the politics behind SoCal railroads. I'm really fond of his channel because it's incredibly rare for a creator to be so knowledgeable about the local politics and measures going on. And many of his videos are a call-to-action unlike info dumps of other urban city planning youtube channels.

5
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by curiousPJ to c/machinists
 

I love the statement because it's true but in context it's rather absurd...

context: Elon calls for crazy tight standard tolerance of 10 micron (±.0002") because if everything is perfect then the assembly will be perfect...

"All parts for this vehicle, whether internal or from suppliers, need to be designed and built to sub 10 micron accuracy.​"

https://www.thedrive.com/news/musk-demands-sub-10-micron-accuracy-for-tesla-cybertruck-build-quality-in-leaked-email


It's significantly easier hitting that tolerance on small parts... Try making the same lego that's bigger than a hand and you'll be going home tail tucked.

And I can't wait for the cost burden to skyrocket. Perfectly functional parts being thrown part for small dimensional imperfections. Entire cars being scrapped because thermal expansion wasn't accounted during manufacturing/assembly. And the opportunities for malicious compliance... oh jolly...

 

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/2226387

Mount Meeker - MastCam-Z - Sol 864

Thankfully they have a bunch of spares drill bits...

 

It's very informative material in a digestible format and pacing.

 

Anything new these days have proprietary names and it's super frustrating tying to find comparisons between modern high performance endmill for crappy materials.

AlTiSiN, I hear is the new good stuff but every brand that seems to carry them obfuscate it like harvey's "tPlus" or Fullerton's "FC-20", SGS's Ti-Namite-M. So you don't really know what you're buying.

Then there's AlCrN. How good is that vs the other coatings?

What kinds of weird and wacky coatings have you found great success in your crappy materials?

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