Hi friends. For the second time, the left monitor of my custom one pro has been having issues.

Looking to buy an alternative, let me know your suggestions!

Hey everyone!

So I've had the HyperX Cloud II for a few years now, but lately, it's been kinda troublesome. Sometimes, if the wire moves a bit the right side doesn't get any audio, and even when it has audio it sounds weird.

So I'd like to get some recommendations for a new pair of headphones, with these

• Around 100 euros, could stretch them to around 150 if the headphones are that good.

• Are closed back.

• Have a good build quality/ durable. ( Sometimes I drop my headphones, not on purpose ofc. I'm just stupid.😬)

• I was satisfied with the sound quality of the Cloud 2s, so any headphones that sound the same or better are good in my book.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Hello guys! I have had kz zsn pro, and after I bought ouranos tkzk. My ouranos a year later broke, the left earpeace sound was lower than the right. I took the kz earpeaces, and combined them with the ouranos cable, which actually worked good, until I noticed a static noise sound when I listen music or when I watch videos.

I use it mainly with a Samsung audio jack to usb c.

For example, when I press play on my phone I hear the static noise, if I press pause its not there.

Do you guys think could be the adapter? Or a conflict with the cable?

I know it's a hit or miss with cheap adapters.

Just received my new earpads for my Sennheiser HD660S after they been worn for 6 years. I was always waiting for a price drop for the original pads but that never came 😕. Last week I couldn't wait anymore so I bite the bullet and paid 39.99 for a pair of ear fabrics 😅. As long they hold for another 6 years I'll be happy that I do the jump.

In 2019, in an effort to find a better sound solution for my then-new Sennheiser HD6xx headphones, I ended up purchasing--and falling in love with--the EVGA Nu Audio internal sound card for my computer. This was after trying an Fiio K3 external unit and being wholly unimpressed with it; if I remember correctly, my headphones were rather quiet even on max volume for that device. Generally, I didn't know what I was doing.

Fast-foward, it's been almost five years, and I'm still using the audio card. Unfortunately, I view it as an unwanted crutch: I'm designing the rest of my PC builds around the need to include it, because I fear going without. For context, despite the lackluster community discussion 4-5 years ago ( https://www.reddit.com/r/audiophile/comments/afhmos/nu_audio_new_soundcard_from_evga/ ), the card really does a much better job than its critics suspected; certainly, it has performed much better than the Fiio K3 which was often recommended instead (at that time). Unfortunately, the card is basically unsupported and, as EVGA is basically out of business, I will eventually need something else.

Though I learn a bit more everyday, I regret that I still don't understand a lot about audiophile nomenclature, so comparing this product to others makes me go cross-eyed. These are the specs for this card that I was able to scrape from the site (https://www.evga.com/articles/archive/01281/evga-nu-audio/default.asp ):

Audio DSP:
XMOS xCORE-200
Native DSD Support (up to x256)

Output Configuration:
2 Channel (Analog)
5.1 Channel (Digital via S/PDIF)

Dynamic Range (DNR) / Signal-to-Noise (SNR):
123dB (Stereo Playback)

Playback Format:
Up to 384kHz, 32bit (Stereo)
Up to 192kHz, 24bit (Optical)

Headphone Amp:
16-600ohm (Independent Analog Control)

Maximum Voltage:
8Vrms

Maximum Current:
250mA

I/O:
Stereo Out (RCA L/R)
Headphone Out (6.3mm)
Line-In (3.5mm)
Mic-In (3.5mm)
Optical Out (TOSLINK Passthrough)
Front Panel Header

Premium Components:
DAC - AKM AK4493
ADC - AKM AK5572
OP-AMP (Headphone) - ADI OP275
OP-AMP (Line Out) - ADI AD8056
Capacitors - WIMA, Audio Note(UK), Nichicon
Power Regulators - Texas Instruments TPS7A47/TPS7A33 ultralow-noise power solution

Switchable OP-AMPs:
Headphone, Line out

Which of these specs is important to ensure that I have similar performance for my headphones, with whatever replacement product I choose? Are there any specs I can safely ignore? If you need another product example, I was recently looking at the Fiio K7, as it's about $200 (about what I paid for the EVGA card 4-5 years ago).

P.S. Right now, I use the provided RCA to 3.5mm adapter (https://images.evga.com/products/gallery/712-P1-AN01-KR_XL_2.jpg) to connect to a pair of powered Klipsch desktop speakers. I don't use external speakers much anymore, but I'd like to maintain this versatility. I would plan on doing something similar, unless there's a better way?

I bought these after asking about open ear headphones in this post: https://lemmy.world/post/9521255

Pros: I don't even notice that I have them on (sometimes I actually forget) - very lightweight and comfortable. Sound quality is good without having something stuck inside of my ear. I can easily hear things going on around me while they're on. No glitchiness thus far. The case they go into is smaller than other wirelesa earphone cases I've had in the past, and they fit very nicely in there (they kind of cross over one another which is cool).

Cons: The light weight is almost too light. They haven't fallen off of my ears yet, but feel like they could if I was really jostling around. Controls are very minimal - double tap to play/pause, 3 sec hold on right earphone to skip forward, 3 sec hold on left earphone to skip backwards. That's it. No volume control. A physical button or two would have been really nice. No app for adjusting aound quality. They're also quite pricey compared to other options.

Over all I'm enjoying them, despite the cons mentioned above.

Edit: Ended up returning them. I got the Soundcore AeroFit Pros.

I have been trying to nail down a few IEMs I have been using for some time now. It turns out, that is way harder than expected.

State of consciousness changes A LOT even from one moment to another. And with that treble gets less or more annoying, you might notice more or less detail with listening, even your spatial awareness could change. Something as little as the endogenous melatonin release that puts you to sleep changes your consciousness so much you will eat up any music on any equipment before you go to sleep.

It is kind of like parking the spaceship to the spinning spacestation in Interstellar. You are actively A/B-ing your equipment and there is atleast another attribute that is unexpectedly varying while you do so.

With all that in mind, let me state this:

• Reviews that are about "subjective experience" are hectic because they rely on something that cant be so easily determined.

• Reviews that are about "measurements" are hectic because their subjective experience is in a blindspot.

Tl;Dr.: Actually zeroing in on a product will inevitably be an arduous process for both the prudent reviewer and the wary buyer. There is no way around it.

I'm looking for something similar to these, but, well, good (these have all sorts of issues like connectivity, etc). I hate earbuds (can't stand having something inside of my ear). I've read that the Shokz brand is decent. Any recs?

Looking for headphones for use at my computer. Primarily for gaming but also music. Lots of people online recommend the Sennheiser HD 560s but I figured I'd ask to see if there's anything else worth looking at. I think I want open backs since I'll primarily use them at my desk by myself.

My criteria are: -Decent price (around $200 or less) -Option for microphone attachment (also looking for recommendations there)

If I were to go with the HD560s, would I need an amp to take full advantage of them? If so, I would also like recommendations for that too, as I don't really know anything about them. Any other advice you could give me would be very beneficial. I'm new to the audiophile scene and don't have a ton to spend on the best of the best in gear. Thanks!

Just putting the topic out there. Feel free link every great deal you know about.

Hello everyone.

I'm seeking guidance for an issue I'm having with a new pair of HyperX Cloud II. I had an older model (shipped with 2 x 3.5mm jacks 3 pins ). I loved them, but they broke.

I bought a new pair (73EUR | shipped with 1 x 3.5mm jack 4 pins + wired USB dongle). When wired through the USB dongle, I have terrible audio + microphone quality. The USB driver shows as "HyperX Virtual Surround Sound (Generic USB Audio)". The best supported format is 16 bit 48000Hz.

When wired directly to the motherboard using 3.5 jacks (extra splitter 1xF 4pins to 2xM 3pins), I have good audio + microphone quality. The USB driver shows as "High Definition Audio Device". The best supported format is 24 bit 192000Hz.

I installed the most recent driver from HyperX support page. No change. I forced a manual driver install on the USB dongle to use the Realtek HD Audio, but it isn't compatible/not supported and there's no audio ☹️

Do I have a defective part? Or wrong Windows 10 driver? Or is this a shitty USB driver implementation by HyperX and there's nothing I can do about it?

Any input is welcome.

Thank you. Have a great day.

Cheers.

I'm currently using an Astro mixamp (2011 version) for my headphones but it's starting to die, I don't really know much about dacs/amps or what my options are to replace it with something better?

I mostly use my setup for gaming, with some music listening or creation here and there, and I'd like to keep the price at or below 200$

It seems like open back are the defacto recommendation for headphones. I already own an AKG K240 and since I intend to use them around other people, I don't want the noise bleed. What do people prefer for closed back applications? I've been looking at the DT 770 Pro's and the Hifiman Sundara Closed. I really like a sound signature with a bass emphasis. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

After a year of using JLAB JBuds Air ANC, I am done with the company and their trash products. I have wasted 60 Euros on this piece of garbage, just for them to constantly unpair, not charge, be massive with the sound not being good enough to excuse their size.

I am currently trying to exchange them in Alza for a cheaper JBL product.

If you think about buying any JLAB product, try to find a cheaper or even a more expensive alternative.

My horror experience with these pieces of plastic garbage make me wanna chuck them into a river.

DAPS have better internal hardware for audio, and it provides a distraction free listening experience, but is it worth paying a premium for one? Especially when there are more modern solutions out there such as portable Bluetooth DAC/Amps such as the Fiio BTR7 or Qudelix-5k paired with your smartphone. I'd love to hear your thoughts!

I like IEMs and love that I can swap cables on them if they get damaged, but I can't keep having to buy new IEMs once I inevitable break or lose one of them because of the cable. My first pair, which had MMCX cables, I lost one of the sides because the MMCX cable had become loose and I was running and it dropped out, and I couldn't find it again. My second pair, which was a 2 pin connector, I had wanted to listen to music in bed with it, and when I woke up one of the pins had been lodged in the IEMs itself and I couldn't get it out for the life of me. Now, I'm back to cheapo soldered headphones, which is fine, but the sound quality was definitely better when I spent close to 100 dollars on the IEMs previously. Does anyone sell headphones with a locking mechanism, so that the stress of movement goes to the housing of the connector and IEM instead of the connector itself?

Here, https://www.amazon.com/PowerA-Fusion-Wired-Controller-Xbox/dp/B0897THHDJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1QO66HKB6O2R7&keywords=fusion+pro+controller&qid=1696711417&sprefix=fusion+pro+controller%2Caps%2C77&sr=8-3, in the second image, you can see that the cable has a locking thing on the controller so that if you yank it out or otherwise stress the cable, it goes to the chassis instead of the USB. Hoping to find something like this.

If it is going to be headphone specific, I would love for it to be in a V shape, since I am a basshead.

You've seen a Schiit stack. Well here's a Sabaj stack.

The headphone amp is cheap and good. Completely black background and three gain levels.

The dac unit has a ton of inputs including coax, optical and Bluetooth. Sadly Bluetooth mode induces RF interference, but I rarely use it, so meh.

The dac unit is now discontinued.

Also pictured: Dunu Titan S and Fiio btr3k.

After a couple years of wearing my K371, often during sweaty gaming sessions, my pads have deteriorated. I'm looking for comfortable gel cushions, which could last a bit longer than memory foam. Old reddit threads and Brainwavz's website suggest I get Brainwavz oval, but I'm hoping if anybody here has any other suggestions as I enjoy the original pad's sound signature and don't want it to change too much.

I've owned the DT 1990 Pro for a couple years now and it's absolutely the best set of headphones I've ever used. But fairly recently the creaking issues that many other users reported have crept up to me.

https://imgur.com/Tvxdfqa

https://imgur.com/X9aIbz8

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/beyerdynamic-dt-1990-pro-beyers-open-back-mastering-headphone.814629/page-93#post-13962732

Basically anytime I moved my head around I would hear what sounded like a piece of plastic being rubbed against another piece and causing creaking noises. I tried to tolerate it but alas it was too much.

The Problem

The molded plastic of the earcup and the plastic frame of the driver are sitting in a way to cause minute rocking when the headband flexes the earcup from head movement. Imagine the outer plastic as an ellipse and the driver as a circle within the ellipse. The circular driver will be free to rock within the ellipse shape of the outer plastic. Even if the driver finds a point to settle, flex introduced into the cans via headband will cause distortion which forces displacement of the drivers causing creaking.

Although, perhaps the driver isn't meant to be 'over-constrained'... To explain further, the retaining ring clips on to the earcup and compresses the foam pad and driver which also has a soft pliable material glued to rest against 3 prongs on the ear cup. This technically prevents the driver from flying about in the earcup. Where it gets over-constrained is from the frame of the driver making many many point/area contact around the earcup. Thus causing a binding condition to occur.

Solution

One purported solution was to loosen the two T6 flat head screws that hold the earcup. This reduces the amount of earcup flex caused by the headband which does reduce the amount of creaking but will not eliminate it all together.

The solution then is to restrain the driver within the earcup in a way it wont creak.

You'll need to take it apart to access the driver.

Dissembly

1. Remove the earpads, plenty of videos on how to do this but all it only takes a light pull to remove it. random 3min YT video

2. Unclip the retainer. I found it easiest to wedge a flat head down into the smallest of the 4 tabs. Small push no prying. See image. https://imgur.com/20dG9Ma Once one came out the rest came out easily.

3. Now you'll have access to the driver. Mind the location of the key and push down around the driver. It didn't take much force to cause the creaking. See image https://imgur.com/Qb4V1lJ

On my particular headphone I noticed an up-down creak (relative to the picture).

4. To remove the driver, place your hand over the driver in preparation to catch it then flip the earcup over. It should just drop out. A couple taps was necessary for me.

5. Shim one side where the creaking was the worst. I chose to use a piece of teflon tape, it's thin and I suppose the reduced friction helps? The plastic frame of the driver is fairly skinny so I cut the tape in half.

This is where you might have to take it differently since your earcup/driver dimensions&form(shape) will be different. I did consider taking a file to it and shaving off a bit around the perimeter so the driver isn't over-constrained but I didn't want to go that route unless necessary.

6. Put it all back together.

Conclusion

It was fun looking for a solution. Root cause analysis is something I attempt do all the time as an R&D machinist.

It's a huge relief to not have to put these headphones away either. Since these are the most priciest set I have.

Let me know if this worked out for you.

I'm looking for opinions on good mixing headphones. I've been using Sony MDR 7506 for a couple of years and they are starting to peel, so I'd like to reserve them for recording situations and upgrade to something new for mixing.

If I'm understanding correctly, open back are superior for stereo image and bass so I'm interested in those. Feeling a bit of choice paralysis since there are so many options / different models that people swear by.

Also wondering how loud are they for those around you? Would being in a midly treated room with the door closed be silent from outside the room?

I'll be saving up for whatever I decide on, so budget isn't a big issue, I'll wait longer if needed. Hoping to stay under $500 Canadian or so.

BTW I would put "true" /flat sound as a priority. Also I have small ears.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ca/post/6069408

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Looking to get new headphones since the battery is now shot in my Corsair

I'm looking for:

• Mostly listening to music, some online meetings, some single player games (I am not an audio file)
• Bluetooth that can save multiple devices
• Over ear
• Noise cancelling (preferably adjustable, but not necessary)
• Microphone (preferred but not necessary)
• Under 300 (preferably under 200)

Whenever I search online the lists are always "here is the best for 500 - 1000, or really affordable, but with no features"

Thank you in advanced!

Hi everyone, i want some advice, so my budget maxes out at 100usd, I want to try an open back or new experience but on the other side I want to buy it for work use too,

my past headphone is ath-msr7se which the left ones died after 4years and have ath m20x still going on after 10years.

Could anyone share any suggestions? I heard edifier wireless w820nb+ is adequate for the budget but on the other hand grado sr60x seems to have really awesome sounds after watching dankpods (i've listened from friends too, grado sr60i which is very fun, but i dont know for long term use)