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Thurkeau
joined 1 year ago
I haven't gotten Genshin to work on Linux, though it may be because I just made a passing attempt, expecting a ban. Then again, I only play it once a blue moon anyway.
Crossover and Wine are the OG compatibility layers for Windows gameplay on Linux, and while I can't vouch for either one now, as Wine is the only one I used--back in the days of the original Unreal, I can say now that Steam's Proton is fairly straightforward and simple. Pretty much, unless it has some sort of anti-cheat malware, like BattleEye, everything "just works." .. and usually, if the game employs anti-cheat, and they catch you playing (fairly) on Linux, you're usually banned.
Looks like I may be going back to an all metal hotend. I had some decent luck with a Creality Spider, though I've found that it isn't in production and the choice of nozzles limited to pretty much the 04 nozzle that comes with most printers. What's the CR-10 all metal hotend that is popular and useful and with a good variety of nozzles?
While I know I'm not going to get SLA level detail (which I have given up on for now as I keep busting the LCD of my resin printer every set of prints) I am still hoping I can get to something recognizable, usually at 3x size for the figure, which I could do with the CR10 head and the Spider. Problem is, haven't been able to even begin to dial in the calibrations, which is what I'm asking for assistance with. Where is a good place to start my tests at?
I do use a dryer on most, if not all of my filament, so I know it isn't that. Thanks for the tip, though. I literally have a Sonyu dryer with the extrusion nipple of both the top and bottom drilled out to 1/2 inch to get rid of the moisture. I'm able to get it down to 25% humidity at 40c or so inside, and I'll leave it for days before I print. Same results.
You mean 14 year-long user of Fisher Price products? :3
I feel like they missed a perfect opportunity, though it may just be the most 2000s thing ever.
I think one difference may be that it actually works. I could never get the Windows Phone Link to work with my S9 when I was trying it.
I have often printed PETG at 60c and PLA at 50c though I usually run PETG at 70c. I'm sure whatever he's printing probably calls for 75c. Either way, those temps are usually a suggestion, and should be fudged either way to get things like you want them. ...though when I print ASA, I've been known to crank bed temps to the full 110c. (Don't go that high if you're using magnetic beds. You're in for a bad time if you do.)
Why? Those are the best ones.
I didn't realize that, though it seems to run fine on my potato (Ryzen 5: 1400, 16GB DDR4, Radeon 6770) with the occasional stutter, locked at 30fps 1080p for the most part. I haven't tried faster frame rates yet as I'm trying to mirror the feel of the game between both this system and my Deck.