IMALlama

I think the idea was "reduce consumption". As a society we buy tons of stuff, way more than 50 or 100 years ago.

I've run 15 kg or so of filmmaker ASA through my Voron.

Things I've learned:

1. Let your printer heat soak, especially if you're printing a bigger part. Heat helps your print. It will also give your printer frame time to stabilize. My Voron grows in z as it heats up. I've printed multiple objects sequentially in one print without letting it heat soak and watched the first layers get worse and worse as the nozzle wound up further and further from the bed on each successive object
2. Clean your bed. IPA is all well and good, but dish soap, your fingers to clean, and paper towel to dry is better. If your PEI sheet is new, scuffing it up some isn't a bad idea. You can use the rough side of a new yellow sponge for this, but you'll want to make that sponge a cleaning sponge afterwards
3. Some shapes are more warp prone than others. If you design your own parts you can design around this to a certain extent. Avoid sharp corners and big aspect ratios (eg much wider than deep, etc)
4. A printing a draft shield around your part will probably help
5. Get your chamber warmer. You can do this with a mix of bed fans and insulation. My biggest print to date was pulled off with a 60 degree chamber. It had zero warping. My printer couldn't hit that chamber temp stock

Other ideas:

• I've never used adhesive promotors on my bed
• Even with a part stuck to the bed, I've had it warp 4-5 inches above the bed and crack before I figured out how to get my chamber temp up
• With a big enough print I've pulled my bed plate up from the magnet thanks to warping. Again, the only solution I found for this was getting my chamber temp up
• I personally run my bed at 100 °C and haven't had any issues
• I've found Polymaker's ASA very easy to print on the cooler side, so I like to run it at 240 first layer/230 subsequent layers. Maybe try a temp tower? I was using 245 initially and was getting tons of wispy (super fine) stringing
• With a warmer chamber you can run more fan since you won't be cooling the part as much

I largely agree - the fediverse needs less friction if it wants widespread adoption. That's part of the reason why I wound up on .world. It was easy. I suspect I'm not alone here.

The other bit challenge is that each instance can have identically named communities, which drives fragmentation and makes each community seem less active. I dabble in photography, so I'll use some examples from that.

Reddit has this problem too, but there can only be one /r/photography. There are derivative communities like /r/streetphotography and /r/askphotography, but the original sub is unlikely to move/change.

By design the fediverse can have many /c/photography communities. In the case of photography there are three or four "big" ones and a bunch of smaller ones. There are also all the derivative communities, some of which are doing better than the 'root' community. One example of this is [email protected].

I'm not sure what a good solution is, especially when you start talking about "the same" community on multi-inatance. One of the design goals of the fediverse was to enable that should some instance go off the rails.

Now now, they have three capitalized letters in their brand now ;)

/s

Huh, thanks for the additional info. On the hot side the reported temperature seems to be spot on so I'm not going to worry about cold temps being off.

Good to hear!

This makes a lot more sense. In the house I saw one in the fireplace was smack in the middle of a large living room.

Texas? Years and decades ago, we lived down there. It's the only place I've seen a double sided fireplace.

I have a 4 bay Synology, so let's say I'm an infant self-hoster. It's running Synology Hybrid Raid, which can protect against a single drive failure. Even if the whole thing goes belly up, I should (painfully) be able to recover my data.

...Unless I have a fire or some other catastrophic event happen. Is there a good strategy to mitigate these risks? I am an officer 365 subscriber (yeah yeah), so the truly important stuff on the NAS, like culled photos, are also on OneDrive.

Thanks for the point of reference. Any idea what extruder and thermistor you have?

I measured my thermistor's resistance when cold at 183 k ohms. This jives pretty well with the expected value per the data sheet. With the 2.2k ohm pullup resistor, this puts the A2D with 98.92 percent of Vref.

I tested against a known hot source (165 °F) and the printer reported the correct value. The resistance at this value is a lot lower. I suspect the NH's A2D is slightly non-linear at the extremes of its range, which is fairly normal.

I forget to do so. Jade also needs frequent rotation for a week or so after you water it. Since I only water it every month or two it's very hard to fall into a habit.

This adds even more credence to the idea of your nozzle being too close to your bed for your first layer.