Lemmy.World

3D printed speakers can sound so good!

Parts list: (Note that some links may earn me a commission if you purchase an item through them) It's approx $500 to build a pair (so $250 per speaker), which is good value when you think that a Sonos or Bose will set you back at least that much only instead of getting a single unit you get a stereo pair with better audio quality to boot!

Subwoofer: Tang Band W3-1876S USA: https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Ba... EU: https://rkn3.net/c/?si=14570&li=16273...

Midtone Driver: Tang Band W3-1364SA USA: https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Ba... EU: https://rkn3.net/c/?si=14570&li=16273...

Alternative mid drivers (these performed similarly and fit the enclosure): https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Ba... https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Ba...

Digital Signal Processor: https://ebay.us/i8U1fC

Amplifier: https://ebay.us/ZWlpBh

TWEETERS are optional, as the midtone driver + DSP sounds great on its own, but for the best quality a good budget tweeter is the SB Acoustics SB26STCN, which is my favourite overall due to its pricing, but a premium option is a Scanspeak D2608/913000 Tweeter. It has a bit more ‘sparkle’ and refinement, but this will ONLY be appreciated if the final speakers are given a signal from a high-quality output source like a dedicated DAC.

If you want to print the baffles, the recommended magnet size is 10mm diameter round neodymium magnets, with 5mm depth maximum.

Fixtures and fittings:

40pcs M3 threaded inserts (for the speaker drivers) 40pcs 3mm x 8mm countersunk m3 black screws (for the speaker drivers) 200pcs Self-tapping 2mm diameter screws, 10mm length max (build platform screws) 24pcs 3mm diameter self-tapping screws (amplifier screws, DSP chamber, midtone chamber base) 2x step-down voltage regulators, 5v output (for powering the DSP and fan) 2x 1000uf capacitor (add across the output of the regulator to reduce interference) 2x Power Adapters (100w ideally, each. A low cost option is old laptop power adapters) 1x roll of 16awg wire

Recommended glue is CT1 - it sticks to PLA well enough and doesn't set too quickly allowing the whole speaker to be screwed together before it begins to dry. This allows any spill over to be wiped away (use an old brush to get inside the air guide etc). Sets with some amout of flexibility. Readily availabe in the UK but not sure about equivalents for other territories. Visit the Forum or Discord server to see what the community recommends for each region.

SAFETY NOTES ON PLASTER OF PARIS: If you're stupid with it, it can be dangerous. NEVER put your hands/feet/whatever into plaster of paris EVER. It can suddenly set without warning, creating a lot of heat in the center, so you'll get burned or worse. Because of this never leave a batch of wet plaster of paris in reach of children or pets. Wearing a mask is recommended to not breathe in any dust, and goggles to stop it splashing into your eyes. Stay safe people!

Looks interesting! What do you think?