this post was submitted on 07 Aug 2023
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Tabletop Miniatures

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[–] [email protected] 11 points 1 year ago

It’s a very menacing jellyfish, good work.

[–] burnso 7 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I actually love it. It looks like something the character in question would have painted themselves.

[–] ReadyUser31 3 points 1 year ago

Yes I was thinking the same! Thanks.

[–] WoolyNelson 4 points 1 year ago

Honestly, it works.

[–] Muttl3y 4 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I'm not really any good with paint but with finishing prints I've learnt a thing or two. High build primer and some fine wet and dry will make a huge difference covering up your layer lines.

[–] ReadyUser31 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Thanks for the advice! I actually can't see the layer lines with the naked eye unless the model is like three inches from my face.

Maybe once I'm better at painting I'll spend a bit of effort on this stuff but I think it's okay for now.

[–] MapleEngineer 4 points 1 year ago

You may need reading glasses. I build RC helicopters which have very small mechanical parts. I can't see any fine detail without reading glasses. I used to just buy them at my local drug store. They have a display with lots of different styles and magnification with text samples. You can try them on and read the text at arms length to figure out which ones work best for you. Also more light in your work area will probably help.

[–] SirBucksworth 3 points 1 year ago

That’s the spirit! I’m proud of you!

[–] setsneedtofeed 3 points 1 year ago

What types of paints are you using? There are tricks with cheaper paints, but even with good hobby paints, using a grey is always easier than white. The coverage will be more even and less transparent. Easier to freehand.

It is easier to paint on the light grey first, then use white to highlight or to overpaint most of the center. If you miss a little with your white it won’t be noticeable.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 year ago

LOL, I like your attitude

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 year ago (2 children)

Are the fingerprints on it intentional? They honestly look like decent texture design elements on most of it, to the point I had to go looking (the narrow top strip on the left hip piece told me they were fingerprints), so if they were intentional texture, disregard.

If you want to avoid that (and the messy fingers) in the future, a plastic bottle cap and some blue tack/sticky tack/even tape helps a ton. Just adhere the mini to the bottle cap, and you have a way to hold it without risking the paint.

[–] ReadyUser31 2 points 1 year ago

It's layer lines! It's already on a little 3d printed magnetic painting handle:

Thanks though!

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

It's layer lines from a 3d print I think

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

Oh, I guess I’ve not seen a 3d print this close.. I‘ve only ever painted pewter and lead figures.

[–] Alteon 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Holy shit, that print job is insanely impressive. What are you using?

[–] ReadyUser31 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)
[–] Alteon 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

What's your print height, temperature, bed temp, and material? And what's your magical secret to get it to adhere without issues? The max I can get down to is 0.16mm and otherwise it just becomes a wispy mess if I go any thinner. You printing PLA?

[–] ReadyUser31 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Ah no this is resin! It prints at 0.05mm.

I used to print in FDM but switched to resin earlier this year. There's more chemicals faff with the resin and needing ventilation etc but you can print a plate full of these models in about four hours, wash and cure, and be done with it. I was printing a single model at a time on FDM and it took like six hours.

[–] Alteon 2 points 1 year ago

Wow.....that quality difference is fucking massive. 0.05mm is three times better than I'm able to do right now.