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Is this a hammer drill? (lemmy.fwgx.uk)

submitted 10 months ago by [email protected] to c/diy

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The icon is a little different to what I've seen on others and I don't know how to tell otherwise.

Thanks!

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[–] Swaziboy 13 points 10 months ago (2 children)

Yes that is the hammer setting on your drill. The next setting is for screwing things in with no clutch release (it will keep rotating while the button is depressed), and it appears you have a series of numbers next which are the clutch settings. These will apply different amounts of screwing pressure before the clutch disengages. Good for when you don't want to over tighten it strip screws.

[–] glimse 20 points 10 months ago (2 children)

For anyone new to drills:

Please do not use the drill setting for screws, you're gonna strip the head and regret it. Even with years of experience, being too lazy to turn the dial has burned me countless times

[–] [email protected] 6 points 10 months ago (1 children)

I only recently learned that the numbers are there for screwing not drilling! 🤪

[–] glimse 3 points 10 months ago

You gotta start somewhere.

You're smarter than me for asking, though. I learned through trial and error and getting yelled at by my boss

[–] Swaziboy 2 points 10 months ago

Thanks for this add 100% correct, it's for drilling not screwing!

[–] SchmidtGenetics 11 points 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago) (3 children)

The hammering most of these 1/2 drill “hammer drills” perform isn’t the same percussive hammering as real sds hammer drills though.

Great for putting a hole in brick or mortar, but trying to go into actual concrete will be a lesson in futility.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago) (3 children)

I'll be putting a hole all the way through breeze block. Would it be ok?

Edit: km trying to avoid the expense of an SDS if I can as I only have 1 hole to do.

[–] glimse 7 points 10 months ago (1 children)

You'll be ok.

I'm assuming you're using a masonry bit so I'm gonna give you another tip:

LET THE BIT/DRILL COOL DOWN. You might burn the drill out and you WILL dull the bit. You don't need to drill through in one shot...drill for 20-30 seconds and wait a few minutes. It's slow but worth it.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 10 months ago (1 children)

Masonry bits are carbide tipped and don't dull, they just break. Heat is not an issue and the bit doesn't even function by cutting. It's a downward 45 angle in order to chip as it rotates. There's no cutting force from the rotation.

[–] glimse 7 points 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago)

Good masonry bits are carbide-tipped but not all of them. I used those with our sls drill but I stuck to the cheaper ones for anything under 1/2"

Perhaps dull was the wrong word but the tips do wear out. You wind up with a useless flat stub at the end that won't push through anything

[–] SchmidtGenetics 3 points 10 months ago

If you’ve got the stuff on hand it wouldn’t hurt to try, it could just take an ungodly long time.

[–] SirSamuel 2 points 10 months ago

You'll be fine. I've found applying pressure for about ten seconds, then clearing the hole, rinse and repeat, works well when using a "hammer drill" like this. Use speed 2.

Also, use a HEPA filter equipped vacuum to capture the dust as it's created, and wear an N95 dust mask while drilling. Silicosis is no joke

[–] SirSamuel 1 points 10 months ago (1 children)

Eh, drilling small holes in concrete is fine. If I need to throw a quick tapcon or something in a slab I'll just use my 1/2" chuck cordless hammer drill. You're absolutely right about larger holes though. What a pain. And don't talk to me about hitting rebar lol