PC Master Race

Glorious PC Master Race was originally coined mocking PC users superior complex, according to the person who coined it.

Bringing this trash over from reddit and sticking to the device war theme and the nazi symbolism is pathetic.

Hopefully this instance goes the same way the other nazi instances have.

News from Gamers Nexus. Including some part about the response from Linus regarding the previous video. Linus really likes to jump the gun and digging holes for himself.

As you can see on the screenshot. Task Manager is saying that the Active Time of my NVM.e system drive has a lot of peaks that start to happen after a few minutes of using the PC and they won't go away unless I restart. I have tried so many things that I gave up and formatted the whole drive and reinstalled Windows from scratch. I have also tried the chkdsk command and this problem won't go away. This started to happen just a few days ago, out of the blue. The whole system freezes at every peak you see on the screenshot and the main tab of Task Manager reports the Disk Usage as being ~1%, so there is no process using the disk. Resource Monitor is also reporting the same thing.

Edit: I have narrowed down the problem to a insanely high Response Time on Resource Monitor (up to 2000ms). It is usually the “System” process that is having this high Response Time. Any way of fixing or at least knowing the root cause of this?

My Philips 242m8 came with the HDMI cable only, are there any noticeable differences if I use a DP cable instead?

I've got a 2nd hand RX 6800 XT about 3 months ago and immediately had to repaste it as the thermals went well above 100C even at 255W. I used a new tube of MX4 which I kept as a backup and the temp went down significantly for about 2 weeks but then hot spot started to creep up until the difference between GPU Temp and TJ Max was 30C+ at times and with my OC at 300W it was often hitting 105C-109C on TJ Max in Time Spy (but even in games the hotspot would sometimes randomly jump to over 100C even if the game was using 200W).

So my theory was that there is a thermal paste pump-out due to thermal cycling which would explain why the temp was going up so fast after repaste but it took me until now to try the Carbonaut pad which I assumed could fix the issue.

I've used Time Spy GPU Test2 on 5 loops to get these results for comparison. GPU was set to 300W and 2600MHz at stock 1150mV. GPU fan speed fixed with side panel on the case as well.

I've started in the morning so room temp went only up until I've got all my results which means that the pad results are slightly better than what I've measured.

After replacing the paste with a pad the TJ Max did go down by about 6C-9C and I was only hitting about 100C at most BUT the core went up significantly by almost 20C from around 78C to 95C.

This was definitely disappointing as this affected the GPU clocks quite significantly and resulted in around 250MHz drop.

But because the hotspot went down this made me think that there just must be insufficient contact or cooler pressure so I was able to find some rubber washers or O-rings or whatever those are in a garage and I took off the retention plate and installed them. I tried to screw the plate back on as evenly as possible with just a normal screw driver and I hoped I wont crack the die by using too much pressure.

Results are absolutely stellar as I've got almost 20C drop on hot spot vs paste (around 9C improvement vs pad without washers) which makes my Time Spy max out at 91C on hot spot. Also the GPU temp went down by more than 20C vs pad without washers and around 5C lower than vs paste to around 73C in Time Spy.

So all in all I'm quite happy with the results. Washers probably did the most as I think doing washers + paste would get me similar results or maybe even better but I'm not going to try.

If you decide to go for the pad I recommend to get larger than 32x32mm one as I did as it's just big enough with almost no room for error if it moves during installation.

Hey PCMR, what’s a good upgrade path for my old PC from 2018? My budget is about $500 USD, here are the specs:

CPU: i3-8100
Mobo: B360
GPU: 1060 6GB
RAM: 16 GB 2400 MHz DDR4
Monitor: Asus 60 Hz 24", VZ249HE I think
PSU: Seasonic S12II 520w

Use case: gaming, streaming, minor video editing, work

I don't mind getting secondhand, might actually prefer it depending on the part. Also kinda wish I won't have to change mobos unless the performance difference is big enough for the same price (like 10+ FPS). I'm thinking I'll just get an i7-8700 + 6700 XT + 650w brand new PSU and I'll follow that up with a monitor upgrade a month or two after this upgrade. Though someone here might know a more optimal route?

Also, any monitor recommendations? Would it be better to go with a 1080p 24" 144 Hz or 27" 1440p 75 Hz? I don't play a lot of FPS but I do go sim racing

Thanks guys

As stated in the title my PC suddenly completely shuts down as if i would lose power. I am pretty sure that it is the Power supply but i wanted to ask if it even is possible for a CPU or GPU to just let the whole computer lose electricity before i buy a new PSU

I have a Lenovo P15 Gen1 laptop with easily accessible ram slots. I have never purchased parts for a PC or done any upgrades myself. I think I understand the process well enough, but I'm lost in all the RAM types and model numbers. How can I tell which sticks will fit and work with the P15, and where's the best spot to order them in the US? Thanks for any help with such a basic question.

Looking for recommendations on how to diagnose this weird issue I had for the second time today while playing Baldur's Gate. Previous time it happened was playing wow.

Anyway, what happens is my screens all go black but the game is still running, just no video output. I can still hear discord, the game running, music going etc. Just no video out.

My GPU seems to run hot for my taste (80C max) during intensive times playing games but from what I read that is a totally safe temp for a 3080. Generally around 50-65 though during normal play

For reference, I had this card for a while but just rebuilt most of my PC with a new processor, motherboard, 1000W PSU, new ram and case that I put extra fans in. This happened once in my old build and now a second in my new one.

Is this an issue with the card, the power going to it not being sufficient or something else... I am well under the wattage rating for my PSU so unless its an issue with the power in my apartment I am lost. 0 other issues with gaming or heat.

Please give any advice how to diagnose or what to do

Hey all. I'm currently renovating my basement and have been thinking about finally creating a comfy couch gaming setup. One of the many options I've been mulling over, besides running Steam Link over ethernet (~ugh, that lag though!~ lag actually wasn't that bad, but for some reason I can't get Steam Link to adapt the screen resolution to my tv) and running a RUIpro HDMI cable through my walls from the tv to the rig in my office, is maybe moving my 3080TI into a new SFF build to serve as a PCMR steam console for the basement. Preferably something small and nondescript, yet powerful enough to comfortably drive my 3080TI. I would stick an xbox adapter in it, hook it up to ethernet and my 4K TV via HDMI and call it a day. Bonus points if it can double as a blu-ray player, because why not.

If I am going that route I would like to not spend too much, so I was wondering if maybe I could just pick up (from eBay) a prefab with a removed GPU, since that used to be a thing a year or two ago. Is that still a thing? And if so, can you recommend any specific models that would work well in my use case? Or did I miss the proverbial boat and am I better off just building a new SFF unit?

Any and all input appreciated!

Context: looking to build a 4K gaming setup and maintain at least 120 fps. Occasional video editing involved.

Haven’t built a PC in a long time (7-8 yrs at least). Other PC was an Intel but decided to go with AMD this time around since it appears there is minimal difference in terms of performance.

As far as GPU selection, doesn’t seem like there is much diff between 4080 and 4090 so decided to go with the former.

As far as memory and disk, I do realize 128G and 8TB of disk drive is excessive. These might be the areas I will shave off some $$$

For PSU, decided to go with the top tier choice as indicated in this list: https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/

PSU is something I would prefer not to skimp on. Also PCpartpicker does not list “ASUS | ROG Loki Platinum” for some reason and just selected a similar model.

Open to suggestions, critique, or roast 😂

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/q6NrxH

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7900X3D 4.4 GHz 12-Core Processor  ($488.95 @ Amazon) 
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X73 RGB 52.44 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($224.99 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: ASRock X670E Steel Legend ATX AM5 Motherboard  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Memory: Kingston FURY 128 GB (4 x 32 GB) DDR5-5600 CL40 Memory  ($551.85 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Crucial T700 W/Heatsink 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 5.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($295.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Crucial T700 W/Heatsink 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 5.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($295.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Crucial T700 W/Heatsink 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 5.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($295.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Crucial T700 W/Heatsink 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 5.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($295.99 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: Gigabyte AORUS XTREME WATERFORCE GeForce RTX 4080 16 GB Video Card  ($1399.99 @ Amazon) 
Case: HYTE Y60 ATX Mid Tower Case  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Power Supply: Asus ROG THOR P2 Gaming 1000 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($309.99 @ B&H) 
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM - DVD 64-bit  (Purchased For $0.00) 
Total: $4159.73
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-08-06 16:10 EDT-0400

I’m getting high CPU usage when downloading games through EGL. It uses up to 30% which is abysmal for 7800X3D. PC is brand new, with latest Windows 11, drivers and BIOS. Both EGL and Epic Online Services are updated to latest version. This happens only while downloading. Any ideas?

As the title says i want to know which one is better overall

If any specs are needed, here they are: R5 5600G(I will later robably upgrade to 7600x), XFX Speedster SWFT 309 Radeon RX 6700 XT, MSI PRO B550M-VC WIFI Micro ATX, Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE, Silicon Power GAMING 16 gg (3200 mhx and cl16 CAS latency), Kingston NV2 1tb, And a Corsair RM750 (maybe an RM750e, depends on the price when i am able to buy all this)

Any suggestions are also welcome I have a budget of 750€(usd to eur) and the case will not be included as i will be borrowing a random case from a friend utnill i have the money for one of these

Also here's a link to the pcpartpicker cofiguration: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/raffy309/saved/r8BH3C

I've swapped a CPU going from 5600g to 5900x, unfortunately the system seems to bluescreen from time to time (usually takes hours in-game, otherwise stable)

For some reason it gets slightly worse when I enable XMP. Significantly worse if I undervold the CPU even a bit. Temps go no further than 80-85C under full load.

Would appreciate your thoughts on potential reasons.

Specs:

• 5900x
• B550m DS3H (Swapping tomorrow to B550 Tomahawk)
• 3600Mhz 2x16Gb Kingston Fury (2400mhz if JEDEC)
• 6700xt Saphire Pulse
• 750W Zalman GigaMax

Will also be reinstalling Windows after motherboard swap.

Hello, me again. I'd like help in workstations. I see all of you jump to pcpartpicker whenever someone wants techsupport, but I'm just looking for general ideas or spitballing. Like whether Amd or Nvidia or Intel.

The usecase will be to try out videoediting and maybe 2d animating. There will also be unavoidable gaming on this device. I'd describe it as a hybrid gaming and workstation.

My logic instantly went to RAM and VRAM. as that should be the focus, but I don't know whether the speed or the quantity is more important. I also don't know if Amd or Nvidia is better at videoencoding.

I'd like tips like this please. NVMe for speed, hdd for capacity, or sata ssd for a mix? recommended MT/s for ram with channels? What gpu cores does premiere use? do I even need to worry about 2d animating? does the x3d modells of amd cpus any good for this usecase? do core # metter or only the GHz?

closing point; I know how to pc, but idk how to workstation pc as I only messed with highend/mid gaming pcs. Thanks for any info in advance!

Hello! I'm in a situation, where I have a work laptop and a personal computer, the latter is used mostly for gaming. In order to switch between them I have to plug all the peripherals from one machine to the other, to help with that I bought a dock, to which I can connect everything, and connect the dock via one USB-C cable. The trouble begins with the monitors, as my laptop supports thunderbolt, but my motherboard doesn't, so it's a bit of a chore to switch them.

To alleviate the issue I'm considering changing my motherboard to one that has thunderbolt 4 support, as I have one 4K monitor and one full HD, and I've read it should support them fine on one cable. Is this a good solution? I'm thinking I might run into some issues with monitors not being connected directly to my GPU, latency or otherwise.

I beseech thee for help o masters of the PC.

Hey guys/gals, I want your opinion on this:
I was thinking of buying a fractal design north case, and a fractal lumen s28 rgb aio.
According to the manual, the case has clearance for a 355mm gpu. Mine is the msi suprim x 3080ti (336mm). As stated by the graphic in the manual, the gpu clearance is measured with the front fans installed, and I was thinking of installing the radiator in the front. The aio manual says that the radiator is 27mm thick. This means I need another 8mm for this to fit.
I measured my gpu with a ruler and I found out the gpu is actually a bit under 330mm, maybe even 328mm.
This is where I ask for your opinion. Do you guys/gals think this will fit?

Heilos pads designed for an easy to use alternative to thermal paste. Thermalright rates the thermal conductivity of its Heilos pads at 8.5W/mK, which is equivalent to the thermal conductivity of Arctic's MX-4/MX-5 - also spec'd at 8.5W/mK, which is considered to be a quite decent level of performance for inexpensive pastes.

I really only once built my own pc and that was years ago. Now i finally have a nice job and have around a budget of 2k € to buy a pc. Im from europe, so no american prices for me.

https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/Y7YFBj

A friend of mine said maybe another CPU would be better? The reason i chose a watercooler was to get it very quiet. Does that achieve that? Do they have other issues i should be aware of?

I only will use this pc for gaming and watching movies. Nothing much more. I dont want a curved screen, but i dont even know if i need 165 Hz. I play shooters but only casually.

Thanks for the input already :)

EDIT:

new list without the much recommended 7800X3D but at least it keeps me under 2k€ and there is an upgrade of the GPU. I also thought about going only 27'' but i really would like one bigger screen to watch movies.

I looked at the benchmark of the 7700 and the 7800x3d from cpumonkey and they seemed very similar with the one being somewhere better than the other and vice versa. So maybe not that much of a difference or wrong?

https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/PfL489

So I kinda figure it's either the PSU or one of my hard drives, but what the issue is is that me PC first makes a click sound (as if I physically shut it down), then restarts some time after.

When it restarts it makes a bit noisier click sound, same as the power button switching does.

I have verified it's not ghosts or little green men. I can't say for certain about Martians.

It's just weird. I'll be unplugging both HDD's today to see if it goes away. Then one-by-one plug things in/out.

I have a Logi G935. G Hub has finally stopped pooping the bed and is decent software now. But after a bit over 3 years the G935 has worn out - it's full of loose connections to the right-side earcup and the mic. Very disappointing. Also the earpads are flaking, but that's normal wear.

So, looking for recommendations. I like Logi hardware, but obviously I'm not going to buy another one of these if they're still lemons.

Sorry if this is the wrong community for this.

Got a 3070 off ebay. It runs really hot touching 102 at times for hotspot. I took it out to realize there there is a slight warp to the pcb which is enough to lift the cooler off the die.

Any suggestions to remount this flat? I repasted and found the temps still bad.

Also really? No metal shim around the die to help. ):

MSI ventus x2 3070

(Uhhh Liftoff isnt letting me past the image crop lol. Ill come back and add photos when i get to my main pc)