PC Master Race

saw this on Facebook and sat the funniest typo.

Come across a few different aspect ratios, however 5760x1080 seems to be for rare idiots like me with 3-27" curved. My current setup is not ideal, but modding my desk today so im not so close.

Overkill? Oh yeah, but I do enjoy it!

GPU is on its way out but its only effecting xwayland applications, still able to play games though

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/12271527

RIP Gamestream?

Hi everyone, I'm looking for a mini PC with specific features.

I want a small case/computer that can:

• VESA mount to the back of a monitor
• Has a Kensington lock
• Can be powered via USB-C. (~ <65W from monitor)

I have found the System76 Meerkat which has all those features except for USB-C power. I can't find a model from MinisForum with a VESA mount but maybe I just missed it. I'd appreciate the help!

EDIT: I found a company called Geekom which has everything I'm looking for. Thanks for the help

OK, so my first NVME was a cheap Kingston 2 TB drive. Not very good. So I just bought a new WD Black SN850X. tried doing a fresh install of windows. didn't work. said 'fuck it' and cloned my Kingston to the WD.

Now when I try booting off of the WD my BIOS detects it, but when i try to select it to boot from it doesn't show up. only my old Kingston shows up.

Motherboard is a Gigabyte Z790 UD AC.

tried switching drive letters. didn't work.

At wits end. Any suggestions?

Edit: sort of figured it out.

Pro tip, make sure your USB drive is formatted to the same file system as your nvme is.

First attempt was with a fat32 usb. This is what caused the problem.

Used a different USB formatted to ntsf. Seemes to be working now. Hopefully i will be anle to install windows now

I'm not sure where else to go with this, sorry if this isn't the right place.

I'm currently designing a NAS build around an old CMB-A9SC2 motherboard that is self-described as an 'entry level server board'.

So far i've managed to source all the other necessary parts, but i'm having a hell of a time finding the specified RAM that it takes:

• 204-pin DDR3 UDIMM ECC

As far as I can tell, that type of ram just doesn't exist... I can find it in SODIMM formats or I can find it in 240-pin formats, but for the life of me I cannot find all of those specifications in a single card.

I'm about ready to just throw the whole board away, but everything else about the board is perfect....

Has anyone else dealt with this kind of memory before? Is there like a special online store where they sell weird RAM components meant for server builds?

Hello everyone, I'm doing some box cleaning and I found a bunch of cables which I'll ask for your help for identification, if you don't mind 🙃

So, as the title says, how do you call this cable?

Thank you!

Went with the Arctic P12 Max because they are incredible for their price. Went with the white version because it has better bearings making it even more quite. Didnt care how it looked but it actually doesnt look bad at all imo

Edit: Got a reply from Arctic on Twitter. Apparently the new revision of the black P12 Max also use a fluid dynamic bearing (the better one). If you want to go with the black ones, always check the description I guess

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/11594863

50/50 chance this breaks Deck and linux support, especially since the commenters' inquiries about it have gone unanswered.

Bogles my mind why a PvE game needs an anti-cheat at all - let alone something as invasive as a rootkit.

Source is the dev's post on, unfortunately, reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/Helldivers/comments/19dp2qw/helldivers_2_nprotect_gameguard_anticheat/

Im doing a custom case with a Jonsbo Vr1 I picked up super cheap. Im after the screws for the glass sides specifically but if anyone in Australia has one Id be interested in picking up a whole case.

[email protected]

Normally I'd go to r/mousereview for this kind of thing, but fuck that website.

Can anybody recommend me a mouse that isn't going to fuck out inside of a couple years? Was previously using an Ironclaw until the USB port went, replaced it with a Basilisk and the scroll on that one's started to jitter up and down now. I have fairly large hands and tend to use knuckle claw grip. Wireless is a must, builtin battery preferred, but requiring a single AA isn't a dealbreaker. I don't mind heavy, prefer a little weight tbh.

Hi, I'd like to lament a little bit here and see if you all would like to make some suggestions for me too. I've have consistently encountered different issues through 3 different speakers that I've tried using with my laptop

The first one is a JBL flip 6. When I have it connected to my laptop it makes consistent audio glitches/stuttering (so much so to the point where I consider it unusable). This is really disappointing because I have been really happy with this speaker, it otherwise strikes an excellent balance of battery life, portability, sound quality/volume, and versatility. I don't know what causes this problem (which seems to be exclusive to being connected to my laptop) and otherwise have zero complaints about it.

The next speaker I tried is a Marshall Kilburn II. I really enjoyed the sound quality of this speaker, looks, portability, the controls were all pretty good, and it had a 3.5mm audio input jack as well, so this was going to (hopefully) alleviate any potential bluetooth woes. Well, Marshall did a stupid design choice and implemented an automatic standby mode. This mode was so persistent that I would have to use the button repeatedly in order to get sound to come out of it. In-between watching videos, or playing games, having to repeatedly press the function button on the speaker to get the audio source to switch back to the aux input was a real annoyance and immersion breaker...

The third, and current speaker to have become a failure for me is the razer leviathan v2x. This one is a usb-c powered speaker, with bluetooth as well. It is not being recognized as an audio device by my laptop when I plug it in. It seems to have pretty excellent bluetooth connection, which would be fine except for the RGB lighting is reactive by default to whatever audio is being played. It's setup in a visualizer kind of way, which in my opinion is way too distracting. I don't want this thing erratically flashing quickly and with many different colors when I'm trying to watch something, or listen to something. It's extremely distracting and immersion-breaking. I would be ok with it if there was a way to turn this off, or make it less erratic, but because the speaker isn't being recognized by my laptop, there's no way to control the speaker's lighting using razer's software which also doesn't recognize the speaker (bluetooth or usb-c connected). I called Razer support to troubleshoot, and was recommended to take it back to the store for a replacement. If it so happens that this was a factory defect, and the replacement operated correctly, I'd probably be happy with a new one.

Thanks for reading all of that, if you managed to get that far.

Found this ESP32-C3 smartwatch (basically just comes with a demo installed) on Aliexpress for 19 euros.

Decided I wanted a temperature monitor in the case, so I put together some ESP-IDF plus LVGL code. It scrolls through different sensor data (customizable, mine has water/CPU/GPU temperature and CPU/GPU power consumption) which it pulls from the PC's LibreHardwareMonitor web server via Wifi.

It really doesn't want to fit, but that doesn't mean that I didn't make it fit.

There seems to be plenty of free space on the SSD but there are unmovable files. So I deleted pagefiles etc, which increased available shrink space from 34000ish MB to 79000ish MB before it somehow decreased back to 58459 MB. GParted Live on USB (with laptop safe boot option disabled) did not work, so I am wondering if there's a way to locate and delete the unmovable $DATA file in question. Besides, can y'all recommend some decent software that address this issue please? Thanks in advance :D

I made the following parts list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4ksFHG
Costs 900 USD. I've got 100 dollars extra, what should I upgrade? Or just leave it as is and spend the last hundred on a nicer monitor? This will be a gaming pc. Must be an AMD GPU tho, and the mobo needs to have wifi. Thanks all :)

EDIT: i think imma spend it on case fans. 4 be quiet! SILENT WINGS 4 (3x140mm, 1x120mm) to keep the noise down

EDIT 2: heres the updated list: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/strawbee/saved/rzTCrH

added some case fans, nicer ram, a nicer mobo (the first one didnt have usb gen 2 header, need it for the usb c port on the case). I do plan on getting the 7600 XT rather than the 6700 whenever that releases

Hello fellow gamers,

I recently upgraded my GPU to a 7800xt nitro+, but in high FPS situations, like overwatch 2, the card stutters sometimes. Like going from the desired 160fps down to like 80 for a second. In general, the FPS are not stable. Before a match it hovers in the 100s regions. That can't be right?

I tried setting everything very uncompetitively on ultra or max just for giggles and because I thought I could. 3440x1440p. Is this the dreaded "AMD driver issue"?

CPU: 5600X PSU:750W SSD: 980pro nvme

Long story short, coworker was talking about how he upgraded from a 3080 to a 4080 last week. He asked if I was interested in buying his old 3080 for 400 USD. I told him yes of course (my gaming pc still running a 970 and I’m getting back into PC gaming after a long break).

Well today he comes in, says he was mistaken, it’s actually a 3060 and because of that he’s willing to sell it for 300 USD. I thanked him but after seeing new 3060s for sale on Amazon for the same price I’m thinking that I need to haggle or look for another card. Thoughts?

TLDR: Used 3060 for 200-250 USD, new 3060 for 300 USD or another option preferably vram min 10gb. Very top end of my budget (stretching it) is $450-500. I want to game at 4k (I know “good luck” but I wouldn’t mind settling for 1440) and have a respectable bump up in graphics performance from the Xbox series X or else the purchase isn’t really worth it to me, as the Xbox is already doing 4k @120 hz on my TV. Yes I know the Xbox 4k is probably upscaled.