Gardening

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Your Ultimate Gardening Guide.

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401
 
 

My wordy title is pretty much everything 😅.

New to home ownership, I didn't know about pre emergent (or if it would've even worked for this)?

Lots of gras came up between these rocks despite having a tarp under these rocks (the tarp is a minimum of 10 years old though I think). I put down grass killer and then went away for vacation. Now I have more greens!

Effectively, what would be the best way to remove this grass? I've been doing it all by hand but it's pretty much miserable, there is more rock bed than what is in this picture.

I think if a hoe works I would be pretty happy with it, but I'm not sure if there'd be a better way to tackle this?

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Rotten squash question (self.gardening)
submitted 2 years ago by ramsgrl909 to c/gardening
 
 

Last year I started a garden for the first time. Learned a lot! When I picked my squash last year it seemed fine, then I kept it on my counter for maybe a week before I noticed a small rotten spot on the underside. Eventually the rotten spot grew and I just composted the whole squash.

Not sure what went wrong. Was thinking -should I put hay or something under my squash when it starts to grow on the dirt?

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cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/1224578

Man I'm a sucker for big beefsteaks 😅

[Image description: a hand holding a large orange tomato with splashes of green on its shoulders, in front of green tomato foliage]

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submitted 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago) by averagechemist to c/gardening
 
 

One of my favorite hydro veggies to grow!

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I’ve bought spinach starts in the past and had a great time harvesting spinach all season - just a few leaves off the bunch each time and more would always grow.

But this year I sprouted seeds myself and I was disappointed when they didn’t grow into the nice bunches I had seen before. Just these leggy little plants. They have nice leaves but not many of them.

Should I be sprouting several seeds together? Or just plant a lot of these closer together? Is it an issue of variety? If anyone has thoughts I’d love to hear them. Thanks

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submitted 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago) by Gingerrific to c/gardening
 
 

The peas though are struggling a little bit this year

Also can't figure out why the pic rotated itself....sigh.

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submitted 2 years ago by clumsy_ to c/gardening
 
 

Loving my jungle! I built this bed enclosure last year late in the summer so this is my first real season.

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submitted 2 years ago by cosmik to c/gardening
 
 
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I had a great year for Romaine lettuce. After learning how nutritious it is, I started a bunch of seeds and they did really well. We had more than we could eat, and after a camping trip I came home to find they’d bolted (see picture). I recommend trying this plant if you have any interest. They are reportedly water intensive but I didn’t find them excessively so. I was also told they will bolt at the first sign of heat but that didn’t happen for me either. They were mature and harvestable for weeks, even with some hot days.

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I got this plant from my mother because I'm interested in chili planting. She choose this from a supermarket (Tesco) because it had a chili symbol on it. It says Capsicum aanum sombrero which from the symbol said to be not edible and might not even be chili. From a google search the name Capsicum aanum I found that it refers to a non edible indoor pepper type which is basically for decoration (more like not edible) but also found some sources saying that it's edible but with the symbol on it I don't want to risk it. I have also found a website contributing it to be a chili type because of the Sombrero name (so fully Capsicum aanum Sombrero). I can't decide what kind of plant this is. Does anyone know? And how should I take care of it?

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I wanted some color in this part of the yard and I’ve always loved lanatanas. I remember being fascinated by their many geometric shapes even as a kid. But I lost a whole row of them the first time I planted. What little frost we get here, maybe 2 or 3 nights a year, was enough to kill them. I tried again the following year and started earlier. And I blanketed them one or two nights when there was a frost warning. They still lost some foliage but the roots remained healthy and with some pruning they have thrived this spring and summer! I hope they are now on their way to being even stronger. They grow big around here, into full hedges even.

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I built this trellis and planted two varieties of honeysuckle in front of it, maybe 7 years ago, thinking they would mingle and mix. One of them, a Japanese variety, took off, and the other barely grew: after 3 years it had scarcely grown from the potted size I bought it at. Then I began pruning it. This seemed counter intuitive: it had much less foliage than I wanted so why cut what little was there? But it stimulated more growth than it subtracted. And a few years later, the two varieties are now of a comparable size in my hedge! I have a calendar reminder of what time of year to go prune and I do it diligently. Lessons learned!

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The previous owner of this house planted mint in the ground around this site over 12 years ago and it keeps coming back. It’s not taking over or anything but it persistently pops up here and there. Just amazing how hardy and well adapted to this site it is. Wish everything was this easy to grow :)

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submitted 2 years ago by PlaidBaron to c/gardening
 
 

Whats not to love about peas? Theyre delicious. They keep well. Easy to grow. Can be planted early. Can freeze 'em.

Best of all, they help build your soil.

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submitted 2 years ago by Gingerrific to c/gardening
 
 

I just love how bright and vibrant the flowers are on zucchini.

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I'm very new with roses and I received my first rose bush 3 weeks ago. Repotted it the same day. Can't believe I already have a bud. I'm really looking forward to see what is to come. 🌹

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Hi, in the UK here. My lawn has a few strong patches of clover which I'd like to encourage to take over the whole place.

For context, I am black-thumbed and the lawn is some rolled turf over terribly hard ?clay soil.

What do I do?

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Poison Ivy sucks (lemmy.world)
submitted 2 years ago by Spacebar to c/gardening
 
 

Rash Treatment and prevention

If you have been (or, think you may have been) exposed to poison oak or poison ivy plants, washing with a cleanser designed to remove urushiol (rash-causing oil from the plants) within 8 hours after exposure will help remove the resin before a rash begins.

There are two brands I swear by. Zanfel and Tecnu. Zanfel is expensive. At $50 for a small tube, I only use it after I get a rash. It has a gritty texture and really helps relieve the itch. After I've been in the yard doing things that may have exposed me, I always use the cheaper Tecnu. It's about $15 a tube and you get more of it. I wash everywhere with it. I mean, everywhere I may have touched.

https://www.zanfel.com/help

https://teclabsinc.com/product/tecnu-extreme-poison-ivy-scrub/

Eradication

Poison ivy is a perennial. You have to kill it down to the roots.

Poison Ivy still has the urushiol oil on dry leaves. Urushiol WILL be carried in the smoke when it's burned. Urushiol is on the stems and roots, not just the leaves. It's less, but it's there. Don't burn poison ivy, you can wind up in the hospital. Don't pull it out, you will get it on you somehow.

To eradicate poison oak and poison ivy chemically, use an herbicide that contains glyphosate, triclopyr, or a 3-way herbicide that contains 2,4-D amine, dicamba, and mecoprop. Ortho GroundClear Poison Ivy & Tough Brush Killer works great. I hate poison sprays, since I'm a beekeeper, but I make an exception for poison ivy because it kills the plant down to the roots and it doesn't come back.

You can kill poison ivy without harsher chemicals by dissolving one cup of salt, one tablespoon of white vinegar, and one tablespoon of dish soap in a gallon of water. Spray it with a spray bottle. It may come back the next year with this method. Remember where it was so you can do it again.

I also like to use old rugs, tarps and cardboard to smother the plants. Leave them in place until there is nothing but bare dirt left. It may still come back.

You can also rent goats. Yes, goats. They love it. It may still grow back.

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Rain may be a welcome sight after a long dry spell, but when it comes to your garden, getting hit with a lot of water all at once isn’t an instant fix. In fact, any prolonged and/or heavy rainfall could actually harm some of your plants.

For this reason, it’s a good idea to check on your garden once the skies have cleared—just don’t make these mistakes when your plants are in a potentially delicate state. Avoid these gardening mistakes after a heavy rainfall

Here’s what not to do in your garden after a substantial rainfall: Nothing

Don’t assume that your garden and flowerbeds got through a heavy soaking unscathed. Leave standing water alone

If you notice that water has collected in planters, wheelbarrows, flowerpots, or in a section of your garden, dump or remove it, if you can. In addition to avoiding waterlogged roots, any standing water can attract mosquitoes. Fertilize your garden, flowers, or other plants

Wait a few days after the heavy rainfall before fertilizing your garden. If you do it too soon, the fertilizer could wash off before it actually does anything. Prune your plants

While it’s fine to remove any branches or other foliage that was damaged during the storm, this is not the time to prune your plants. Pruning in wet conditions can leave your plants vulnerable to pathogens. Ignore snails and slugs

Snails and slugs prefer their habitats moist, so they may decide to move into your yard or garden after a heavy rainfall or period of wet weather. The problem is, they also like eating holes in plants, flowers, and various leaves.

After all the hard work you put into your garden, you probably don’t want it to turn into a slug and snail buffet. If you spot any on your plants, sidewalk, or driveway, your best bet is to pluck or scoop them off the surface, and put them in an empty bucket.

It’s up to you what to do with them next. To relocate them humanely, release them somewhere at least 65 feet away from your home and garden, to prevent them from coming back.

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Non toxic hedges (self.gardening)
submitted 2 years ago by mightyfoolish to c/gardening
 
 

I'm trying to replace two dead bushes. There was one single bush (My guess is either a boxwood or juniper bush) on each side of the porch stair case. I was hoping to find something non toxic for kids, dogs, and especially cats. Most likely the cat will frequent these bushes. Everything seems to be at least somewhat poisonous from what I read on the internet.

I would appreciate suggestions. I would prefer something that grows around 4ft tall and thrives in the USDA zone 6.

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cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/423169

My very wild garden pushed these guys out of a pot of soil I was going to plant some herbs in but I liked the leaves so I decided to let this guy grow. Don't know what it is but it's pretty.

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