zumlin

joined 1 year ago
[–] zumlin 3 points 1 year ago

That’s the correct order

Stupid me, you are right. I can't tell "R" from "B" from the label on the actual board. I think I swapped all of mine on purpose because I wanted the sequence of colour change to go from outside to inside. Again, not that it matters, because none of mine are RGB lol.

[–] zumlin 3 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (2 children)

Perfect soldering as expected. I can't help it but my OCD has made me notice that you have the red and blue wires swapped on the aux board, not that it matters in this light.

Also is that moonlight level? The lowest few levels acted weird before you disabled dynamic underclocking. I have been doing some experiments myself, with dynamic unclocking enabled and disabled. I ended up making a new smoother ramp while keeping it enabled.

Btw, what happened to your anduril2 fork? It is no longer visible on GitHub, did you make it private?

[–] zumlin 3 points 1 year ago (3 children)

I love them, but with the availability of the T1616 adapter, I feel like I need to push them all to the limit and have 3 colours for each light, even if the colours are the same lol.

Here is a video of it in action. And another.

[–] zumlin 2 points 1 year ago

Excellent! Thank you so much.

[–] zumlin 1 points 1 year ago (6 children)

Yea I don't own one yet, but it should be around 5.6mm to 5.7mm.

I can try making a version with the LEDs closer to the 3535 cutout

That would be great if you could, thanks.

[–] zumlin 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I am looking into sourcing some of these RGB leds to try, and discovered that there is an even smaller model available.

B36S3RGB is 0.69 x 0.69mm. These are the ones you are using.

While

B36L3RGB is 0.65 x 0.65mm. Have you thought about using these?

I have not studied the datasheets in detail but from a quick glance, apart from the size, they seem to be identical otherwise.

[–] zumlin 1 points 1 year ago (8 children)

Awesome! Do you think if I can fit these RGB leds under an original FW1A reflector with the smaller opening (not the crappy FW1A Pro reflector)? If I can eventually find one that is.

[–] zumlin 3 points 1 year ago

I think it is a good choice, even if you just use the crappy reflector from the FW1A Pro. I played around with that reflector very briefly and just raising that reflector a little bit will tighten up the beam from the Yinding.

I just need to have aux though, so I won't be using a reflector.

[–] zumlin 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I haven't seen one of those, does it look like the original FET+7+1 driver otherwise, do you have a photo you can show us?

When I ordered my FW1A Pros, I asked the guy on the aliexpress store to show me a picture of the driver before I placed the order, in case they are still shipping FET+1 drivers.

[–] zumlin 3 points 1 year ago (3 children)

Thanks man! When this mod is complete, the light will have your T1616 adapter inside of it.

[–] zumlin 4 points 1 year ago

From reading the Yinding thread over at BLF, there seems to be quite a large variation in tint measurements, both positive and negative duv. Someone measured a duv of -0.0067, so I guess I won the tint lottery.

[–] zumlin 4 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Looks good, I found that pink gives a little bit of fluorescence vibe like UV when you shine it on colourful objects.

And it looks like everybody's photos are in the wrong orientation. About half the photos in my last post (my first Lemmy post) were anyway.

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