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cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/20112075

I have two type-k thermocouples with breakouts from Adafruit, attached to a ESP8266 (Huzzah I believe). My oven was very old and didn't come with a temperature readout or any kind of preheating status (but thankfully also no builtin WiFi). The Tasmota device reports to HomeAssistant, which stores data in InfluxDb, which I can then chart in Grafana.

Here you can see the internal temperature got to 151F, and I was surprised to see how much the oven's temperature rebounded after I took the cakes out, despite being off.

The recipe is "Chocolate Lava Cakes For Two" from NYT Cooking. It's one I make semi-regularly, pretty quick on a weeknight and delicious. I have small ramekins so the recipe makes three and they cook a little faster than the recipe's would.

I baked "Chocolate Lava Cakes For Two", the NYT Cooking recipe. It's one I make semi-regularly, pretty quick on a weeknight and delicious. I have small ramekins so the recipe makes three and they cook a little faster than the recipe's would.

I have two temperature probes (thermocouples on a Tasmota ESP8266 => HomeAssistant => Grafana). Mostly for my entertainment, but here you can see the internal temperature got to 151F, and I was surprised to see how much the oven's temperature rebounded after I took the cakes out, despite being off.

I made three sets of classroom mailboxes, for passing in papers / storing journals etc. Sides and back are 3/4" plywood, shelves are 1/4" plywood. Corners are rabbet and dado joints, my first time doing that. I did the cuts on my table saw. (I tried to route them, but didn't get as clean a cut as I'd like with the cheap Ryobi bits I had.) Shelves slide into dados. The sides/centeres are designed so one fence location could cut the top and bottom dado. I didn't have a dado stack, and am using a Shopsmith which has the table saw blade arbor on a quill, so I set the quill stop for my dado width and used that to make multiple cuts slightly apart. That worked fairly well but must have been slightly off on some cuts where it was very hard to slide the 1/4" plywood shelves in; I ended up sanding the edges of some slightly thinner.

I just received a text from (701) 922-7432 saying:

PUBLIC ALERT: We are confirming your voter file records. Please do not respond with any sensitive information, but do confirm whether your name and address is [full name] at [Street address]. stop = end

I see a recent r/Michigan post about it but not decisive mention of a scam or real campaign.

I've built the section of the table that flips. On the saw side, I have 1-1/2" to build up so the bed of the saw is flush with the rest of the table. How would you attach the saw so it's secure to flip upside down?

The top only has holes at the front, for inserting a side clamp.

Maybe bolt through the ends into a block underneath?

Moving my FC over to it from the ZOHD Dart XL, since I want a rudder.

Or any other tips for keeping track?

It's been a convenient way to write on thin wires, thought I'd share the tip, and curious if other folks do it too.

Also, nice to find this community exists, but it'd be great to see folks posting, maybe we could just share what we're flying!

I decided to sand down the top, drawer front, and low shelf edges, but leave the spindles alone. I tried to match the stain but the one I bought (and tried on a hidden area) came out too red, so I skipped staining. Luckily several coats of poly ended up close enough.

Before (previous post):

It has seen some water damage and the varnish is flaking off (especially on the top). But I don't necessarily have the time/energy for a full strip/sand/refinish, especially as this may get dinged up; I'm just looking for a reasonably pleasing look.

Looking at the bare wood that was between assembled pieces, it looks like the piece was stained and then varnished. What's a good way to get the old flaking varnish off without messing up the stain -- Citristip, just sanding? Thinking I'll just put some coats of new polyeurethane varnish on as the new finish. Most instructions I see online are for a really thorough refinishing, so I'm wondering if there's some middle ground that will clean up the worst of the water damage and protect the wood, even if it doesn't look like new.

Closer view of the top:

Another angle below. Very dinged up and the end and legs were missing, but seemed like to much hardwood to pass to.