elDalvini

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 5 points 5 days ago* (last edited 5 days ago)

A small pair of vernier calipers. I don't use them a lot, but sometimes they come in very handy.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago (1 children)

If that freehub is constructed like the ones I've taken apart before, you're out of luck. Like you suspected, the teeth lock the rotation of the freehub to the hub, unless the screw in the back is taken out first.

You can try hammering in a (slightly larger) torx key or using an easy-out (probably won't work if it's very tight).
As a last resort, you could try to drill out the screw (only so far that the freehub comes off, you don't want to drill into the hub). Then you should hopefully be left with enough left of screw to grab with a pipe wrench.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago

Unfortunately, this might not be easy to find a solution for. The larger thread size doesn't seem to be a standard bike pedal thread, so finding a specific adapter is probably not possible.

Another solution might be to use some kind of threaded inserts in the cranks (this would probably require drilling the cranks out for a larger thread). But the standard pedal thread of 9/16-20 is not widely used anywhere else, so finding the inserts (let alone a left-handed ones is probably next to impossible.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago

Klar hinterlässt das Spuren, aber nichts was man mit etwas Seife oder Spüli nicht wieder weg kriegt. Der Dreck ist ja in dem Moment schon gelöst (sonst wäre er noch am Fahrrad). Nur Festtrocknen würde ich es nicht lassen.

Ich wäre nur vorsichtig dabei, mit höherem Druck direkt an die Lager ran zu gehen. Danach hast du sonst auch Wasser in den Lagern und musst doch alles auseinander bauen und neu fetten.

[–] [email protected] 16 points 2 months ago

My router is called Jupiter, everything connected to it is named after a moon. Callisto, Ganymede, Thelxinoe, Kallichore are what I'm currently using.

[–] [email protected] 22 points 2 months ago (2 children)

IIRC, this is actually done at some point in the books.

[–] [email protected] 20 points 2 months ago (2 children)

You can host a Firefox sync server yourself. You could run that on something like a Raspberry Pi in your local network. If you need remote access, use something like cloudflare tunnels (although I guess that's something else to be paranoid about).

[–] [email protected] 40 points 2 months ago (2 children)

Windows is clearly superior. If you've had enough of the settings app, you can just switch to the control center!

[–] [email protected] 41 points 2 months ago (13 children)
[–] [email protected] 1 points 2 months ago

For quick, uncomplicated parts, SolveSpace works pretty well. It's missing some features (like chamfers) that limit the kind of parts you can design, but it's lightweight and relatively easy to use.

For everything beyond that, FreeCAD seems to be the only option (Or one of its forks, I find Ondsel easier to use). It has some issues and a pretty steep learning curve, but it is open source and you can design basically anything with it.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 3 months ago

Interesting! Turns out I've been doing parallel view all along. I was wondering why some of the images posted here look a bit weird to me - looking back, the ones that work for me are actually for parallel viewing.

 

I just found out that the Getty museum released a lot of artwork into the open domain, including quite a few stereographs. These are meant to be viewed with a stereoscope, but I’ve found they work amazingly well in crossview.

 

I just found out that the Getty museum released a lot of artwork into the open domain, including quite a few stereographs. These are meant to be viewed with a stereoscope, but I've found they work amazingly well in crossview.

[–] [email protected] 24 points 4 months ago (13 children)

What did you expect? We're talking about one guy who might have lived over 2000 years ago. You're not going to find his birth certificate and social security number.

The best anyone can do is assign a probability to his existence. And reading the article you yourself linked to, that probability seems to be pretty high.

79
submitted 5 months ago* (last edited 5 months ago) by [email protected] to c/3dprinting
 

I built my 3D printer a couple of months ago, but I can't get it to print sharp corners. The corners in the picture should be 90°, without any fillets:

During this test print, I played with multiple parameters: speed, temperature, acceleration, junction deviation, linear advance. All of these were also individually tuned previously. Nothing seems to make a difference.

Could this be a issue with the construction of my printer? I'm beginning to think my hotend isn't rigid enough, but then I would at least expect better results at low speeds.

Edit: the printer is a CoreXY of my own design running Marlin 2.1.2.1. The Slicer is PrusaSlicer with most settings left as default (but increased speeds)

 

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