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Yeah, makes sense, the people I saw online with “successful” results were primarily white men, which I would imagine would pop up pretty frequently in a training set. The bias also feeds into the echo chamber of AI hype too in my opinion

Yeah, my wife tried one of these services and got terrible results. They really do give better results to certain people’s faces depending on the training set

Yeah you’re good, I think it’s the sugar and corn syrup in soda that makes them not hydrating while seltzer still is

From the workers perspective, I know a lot of people are scared because tools like mid journey can replace, e.g. concept artists. Not sure why a studio would be scared

Great breakdown

I think the general consensus is Sorc is one of the weakest classes. For example, look at the unique items added in the latest patch - only the Sorc item has a downside to its unique aspect. The highest tier build I’ve seen for sorc right now I believe is blizzard and that requires the glacial offensive aspect(which is a random drop only vs codex aspect) to work, plus a few other utility aspects to keep your mana up. I had to grind a bit to get a random drop with the blizzard aspect though. Once I changed to that from lightning I had a lot less trouble, and can now solo ancestral dungeons at around my level 75 without getting wrecked. I think at level 100 and high tiers it gets harder because of squishiness since apparently a lot of elites will be able to one shot you without a barrier, but I’m not worried about that yet.

Teslas have some serious issues and shortcomings. And I say that as an owner. FSD is a mess and I don't trust it. The model 3 has some very opinionated design choices. I don't like how it's frameless. The interior is nowhere near as nice as cars in the same price range. There's only 2 usb ports and you need to use one of them for dashcam storage. Maintenance is a pain in the ass to DIY. They remove key features over OTA updates(they took away radar sensors for parking in older model 3s).

However, if you're in the market for a used EV under 30k, you've only got basically 3 options: a rwd model 3, a leaf, or a bolt. The model 3 is the only one of those that has fast charging and can be taken on any sort of longer road trip. And they're cheap to charge at home. And even if you're shopping new, I'm fairly sure the base model 3 is the cheapest EV on the market if you qualify for the full tax credit.

Ah, ok, good point. In my install, I did not opt to have them wire and install electric auxiliary heating strips for my unit, and the boiler & aqua coil is I believe being controlled by a control system that makes the unit think the boiler is a heating strip. 17 F is about the coldest it got in my climate last winter, so I guess that's a good starting point.
So it seems my Heat pump alone would run at 4.2 kW for 31,800 Btu. at 17F. My blended electric rate is about $.12/kwH, so about $.5/hr to run.

For my house, I believe the load calculation would be that I need about 48,000 Btu to effectively heat. Our boiler runs at 0.75 gal/hr max, and heating oil was $4.69/gallon last winter, so the boiler would still need to run at ~20-25% of capacity(assuming it's a linear curve) at 17F to reach that btu number based on 138,500btu/gal x 0.75gal/hr x 0.8(not so sure on efficiency) x 20% capacity = 16,620 btu, which I believe at 0.75gal/hr x 0.2 = 0.15gal/hr would be ~$0.72/hr. So that would give me a total cost of ~$1.2/hr for 48,420 btu.

Without a heat pump, I guess I would solely be burning oil, so that would need to be about 57-60% load, so 138,500btu/gal x 0.75gal/hr x 0.8 x .6=49,860btu, which I believe at 0.75gal/hr x 0.6 = 0.45gal/hr would be ~$2.1/hr.

It seems like based on my electric rates and the values from that heat pump, it should offset roughly half of my heating oil usage at the 4.2 kW electric consumption assuming the boiler has some sort of ability to modulate oil in take.

Hey, so I have an s30 lennox thermostat. For anyone who runs into this in the future, I actually managed to find it in settings under 'heat & cool" and "balance point auxiliary heat". It seems my heat pump is intended to work at the same time as auxiliary heat when it's inside a certain temperature range, switching over to auxiliary heat entirely once it gets to the lower number

So, good question, the previous owner did install a vapor barrier covering the basement and crawlspace, so there is some other mitigation in place. The current unit came with the house - HOMELABS HME020031. It keeps humidity down fine, but the pump is broken, so I'd like to replace it with something that should last for a while and hopefully run a little lighter on electric cost.
It seems it has a rating of 1.9L/kwh, whereas the aprilaire is 2.3L/kwH, so I suppose about ~20% more efficient. My other thought was they seem to have a better warranty so if something fails then I don't need to replace the whole unit.

I was interested in the same thing to save energy not running the standalone dehumidifier, but as I understand it they don't dehumidify quite as much as a dedicated unit. I believe it only runs when I consume hot water, so I'm not sure how often it would run daily on average for our water usage and if that would be sufficient to dehumidify the basement. We do have a heating oil boiler in the unfinished space, so there would be plenty of heat for it to use in the winter, so that's also helpful for savings.
We have a variable speed heat pump for house cooling, so I believe we have enough dehumidification in the cooling season