Home Improvement

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Home Improvement

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submitted 6 days ago* (last edited 6 days ago) by [email protected] to c/homeimprovement
 
 

First off, if you aren't currently treating for termites with a soil treatment and/or bait system, start now. It will save you thousands in the long run, and you won't have constant fears of termites like I now do.

Anyway, about two years ago, I was sitting with my partner, watching TV in our basement. My partner got up to do something, and noticed that at the bottom of our basement bathroom door frame, there was what looked like dirt. A closer inspection revealed that it wasn't dirt, much worse. This was termite frass, further confirmed by the termites visible in the frass.

I quickly did research and bought termidor foam (It should be noted that Termidor foam only lasts 6ish weeks, and is meant to be applied directly to areas with active termite activity), dominon, and boracare off of domyown.com.

I applied the foam, dug trenches around the house to treat soil with dominion, and waited about three months before fully demoing the bathroom. Inside of the wall closest to where my partner noticed the frass, there was a huge mud tube that seemed to have multiple chambers inside of it. This tube chamber was probably about 4 inches by 5 inches. This tube stopped about 4 and a half feet up the wall, and did not appear to go into the upstairs area. The sheetrock's paper between the paint and gypsum had been eaten away into tunnels as well.

(Slight side note, at this point, I was confused as to what type of termite I was dealing with. I knew that usually, subterranean termites don't create frass as they use that to build their tubes. I now know that they can actually create frass piles when they accidentally break through the wood. This can cause the frass to spill out. If this hadn't happened, we probably wouldn't have figured out that we had termites until it was too late.)

I could not identify any damage to the studs, and they seemed very sturdy. Boracare was applied. We sheetrocked and fixed up the bathroom over the next little while. I'm unsure about their entry point. During the repairs, I found a relatively large crack in the slab, right underneath the wall for the bathroom. I'm guessing this is how they got in, but can't be sure. I pumped it full of concrete silicone, used at least 3 tubes worth.

Maybe about a month later, I found more evidence of termite damage, this time behind my furnace which is in the center of my basement, maybe about 10 feet away from where I found the original tube. There was frass along parts of the very old, 1940's baseboard. I have no idea how they got there, and still am not sure how long they had been there. Nonetheless, once I noticed the frass, I immediately got my extra can of termidor foam and filled the void between the wall and the baseboard. Since doing that, there has been no new visible frass, and we haven't found any swarmers. I'm honestly too scared to cut a hole into the wall to assess the damage, and might ultimately have an inspector come out and check it for us.

I'm increasingly paranoid about them. I constantly think that every squeak in the floorboards upstairs is caused by termites. Any dip in the flooring, no matter how slight, sends me into another bout of paranoid reading about how termites are eating away at my home. Maybe about an hour ago, after another one of these spirals, I bought a pack of 10 bait & monitor systems which I plan on putting around the soil outside.

I guess, to sum up, you should be treating your soil for termites, even if you have never seen signs of an infestation. If you live in an area with a lot of subterranean termites, buy baiting systems so you can monitor if your property is having any termite activity, on top of the soil treatment. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself, hire a pro. It's worth it to treat for termites as if an attack is inevitable.

I hope that one day, I feel confident that I got them. Unfortunately, without tearing out all of my walls and floors, I can never be sure at this point. It's a horrible feeling, and don't want anyone else to experience it. I've lost countless hours of sleep.

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I'm unfortunately not there physically to help, but my mom has this light switch she needs to remove temporarily and replace the plate. Her "handyman" installed it 'brand new' within the past few years. I told her it looked like it was from the 80s haha. Anyways, she apparently cannot remove the knob for the life of her, shouldn't the knob be able to simply pull off without breaking?

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Hurricane Helene crushed my 38" mower, and it just barely fit in the bed of my 93 Ranger. My options now are the dumpy looking disposable 30" riders, a 42" that won't fit in the truck, or a push mower that I'm too lazy to walk behind. I've decided that a single blade larger than 30" must be impractical because the spindles can't handle the Mandingo of a blade, and dual blades smaller than 42" total must be too many RPMs to hit target tip speed.

Insurance is paying for it, but I want something that fits in the truck. Any ideas?

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submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 5 days ago) by [email protected] to c/homeimprovement
 
 

I wrecked the ceiling/ wall bringing down a sofa. I’m a new home owner so not sure how to fix this. I have the paint since we repainted everything.

Not sure if I should use the pink stuff or something else. Any suggestions?

EDIT - Thanks all for the advice and suggestions. I was able to rebuild the corner using spackle and have sanded it. I put on the first coat of paint and am quite confident this will look as if there were no damage at all.

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Wall texture (self.homeimprovement)
submitted 1 week ago by Today to c/homeimprovement
 
 

I'm in the middle of a whole house remodel. First half of the house (3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, hallway) is almost done and we hate the wall texture. It sounds so stupid, but the old and new look dramatically different. Part of the house was crows foot so i went with it thinking it would be cheaper and easier. How hard/expensive is it going to be to change it?

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I've got creeky floors under carpet (relatively new building). I don't own the place but the creeks and squeaks bother the hell out of me at night when I'm trying to not wake up the pup.

Didn't see any particularly useful advice online so any thoughts are appreciated.

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Swimming pool, blind dog (self.homeimprovement)
submitted 3 weeks ago by Today to c/homeimprovement
 
 

I'm moving into a house with a pool in a couple of months. I have a 20# dog who is blind and I'm trying to think of ways to keep her safe. The area from the back door/patio to the pool is all concrete, so installing fencing would require drilling holes. Looking for something temporary that could be removed during parties. I suggested wooden planters spaced every 8+10 feet with a bracket to hold a board. Husband didn't like that. I'm still leaning towards that, but looking for other ideas. Thoughts?

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It's a long story, but I need the aluminum trim replaced around a garage door. Just basic white aluminum trim.

I don't want to do it myself...but I have no idea what kind of contractor I even need to call to do it. What kind of contractor would I call to do this? I'm in Maryland, US.

Google searches either lead me to garage door replacement or siding replacement, neither of which is what I'm actually looking for.

Is there a site where I can post a picture of the project and dimensions and get contractors to bid on it, or at least express interest on it? Angi (formerly Angie's List) seems to require me to figure out what kind of contractor I need, and this doesn't fall into the usual categories.

Thanks!

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Wall oven selection (self.homeimprovement)
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by lemmyman to c/homeimprovement
 
 

My wall oven went kaput - it had a good run (I think it's original with the house, from 1960. Or at least from the 80s. It has a mechanical timer!). But the heating element melted itself and I'm not really up for trying to find a replacement for that.

So I'm in the market for a new wall oven and seeking input. Key specs:

  • It's a 24" single wall oven. Cutout is 22.5" wide, 28.5" high, and 25" deep.
  • Electric power, 240V/30A circuit
  • I only care about baking and broiling. Steam, air fry, wifi, rotisserie are all zero-to-negative for me.
  • I would prefer physical dials and buttons but that seems uncommon these days
  • I wouldn't want to go much more expensive than the options I've found (see below).

I've found two that seem like a native fit:

  • GE JRS06SKSS
    • The installation manual shows that this needs a cabinet cutout below the unit, which I don't want to do because I have existing drawers there
  • Frigidaire GCWS2438AF
    • This seems to fit my cutout without modification, so I'll probably buy this unless I find something better

Most other 24" models are designed for a shorter ~23" cutout, which is unfortunate because there are some substantially cheaper options (like $500 vs. $1700). For example the Empava EMPV-24WOB14, and some others from Magic Chef, Cosmo, and various other brands I've never heard of. It's maybe possible that I could build a nook above or below the oven, or a trim piece covering the opening. But I'd kind of just rather not.

Any thoughts on my best options here?

Edit to add: I opted to look harder for a replacement heating element, and after a long slog through a lot of appliance parts websites that don't offer many specs for their parts, I finally found a couple options that look like they will work at www.therm-coil.com, where it seems that every heating element they offer is listed with cross-references, dimensions, and terminal style. Like, all the stuff that should be listed on all the other sites but never is.

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I'm a dumbass and had someone come out and install a 240v outlet (and 120v). The reason I'm a dumbass is I didn't measure and had them install it in a place it wouldn't work for the appliance I am using.

I need to move the outlet a lot closer to the breaker box so I won't need additional wire or material, less actually.

I'm debating doing this myself. I technically have an EE degree but my day job is primarily coding, and any electronics I've worked on are usually the micro variety. I am aware of all the electrical safety requirements and in terms of technicality/connections, I think I just need to copy what has already been done but just remove a bunch of wire and place the outlet closer.

Do you think this is something I could take on myself with some research? My brother-in-law is also a proper electrician and I can facetime him.

Or do you think I should just ask the guys who installed it back and have them do it?

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Hi!

What I* have:

  • a Raspberry Pi 3B
  • a solar PV system with Modbus output
  • a heat pump with Modbus output

What I want:

  • energy stats of the PV and the heat pump, going back for a few years, without needing cloud access
  • trigger the heat pump into overdrive when there's excess solar
  • something that works well on a RPi 3B
  • usable phone frontend (not necessarily an app, but kinda like it)

What I tried: Home Assistant -- which works but is very complicated and behaves rather funkily on the hardware. I suspect that putting a whole bunch of Docker containers on a lowly RPi is kind of a bad idea. But also, with Home Assistant, there appears to be a rather steep learning curve because there's just so much stuff.

What I've superficially considered but haven't tried: OpenHAB. Would be interested in learning if that's better.

(* actually none of these are mine, but for the purposes of this post, let's assume I have control of all this stuff.)

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Our town's water keeps failing to meet DEP standards, so I'm investing in a filtration system for our drinking water. What I think I'm looking for is:

  • Has a tank, since there are 5 of us
  • Filters out lead, PFAS, PFOA, etc. (Which is why I'm leaning towards RO)
  • Good warranty and customer service, for when something inevitably goes wrong
  • Remineralization (picky about water taste)
  • UV (maybe?)

Does anyone have recommendations for a quality brand, or one that they've had for years that they like? I'm not sure where to even start.

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I've built a small office for myself with outlets all over the room. They are all on one circuit I'd like to protect them all with a single surge protector.

I imagine their should be some product similar to a GFI outlet that would protect itself and everything past it on the circuit. I could mount it next to my panel and run the wiring straight to it before continuing on to my office. But I can't find such a device.

The two closest things I've found are a whole home surge protector which seems like overkill. And this outlet from Leviton which is a surge protector, but only for itself. It won't protect anything else on the circuit.

I could obviously use a power bar with a built in surge protector but part of the idea of having a bunch of outlets around the room was to remove the need for a power bar and keep everything cleaner.

Does anyone know if what I'm imagining actually exists?

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First time homeowner here so please forgive the newbie question. I'm in Texas so our houses aren't built for the cold. We're going through freezing temps at night right now, with temps getting up well above freezing during the day. I woke up this morning to my kitchen faucet not having water (at all) when turning it to the hot setting. It's the type of faucet that you just turn left (hot) and right (cold) and lift to open. The cold water side is fine. The two other faucets found in the two bathrooms have hot water without issues, but they have separate faucets for hot and cold. I've been religiously dripping all our faucets every night since last week. Is it possible something froze? And what I can do to start figuring out the problem and possibly fix myself?

Thanks in advance!

Edit: Here's what it looks like under the sink. The upper left tube is what I believe is the hot water, the right for cold, and the bottom goes to the dishwasher.

Update: Water finally came out! I left the faucet open on hot, then ran hot water on all the sinks and showers in the bathrooms to get the water heater pumping. After around 10 minutes, water started to trickle and eventually went full blast. I'll make sure to drip the hot water as well and not just cold from here on out! Thanks to everyone who responded!

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My power is generally pretty reliable, but when it does have issues, it often flickers violently. More than once, I thought the control board in my fridge got fried, but was luckily able to do the refrigerator equivalent to Ctrl+Alt+Delete and reset it.

I have an extra 800W UPS laying around, so I figured I'd give it a try and see if it would run it. I'm not really looking to use the UPS to keep it powered during an outage, just to deal with the power flickers/surges/brownouts that may damage it (surge protectors won't protect against brownouts). Any additional cooling time during an outage would simply be a bonus.

To my surprise, it works. Not only works, but only seems to draw between 110 and 160 watts (compressor on, door open). However, I expected it to draw power in the 700-900 watt range. Granted, the last time I worried about refrigerator wattage was years ago when I lived in the boonies, had an older fridge, and had to resource-manage when I was running from the generator on a long outage.

Is that normal for a 26 cu ft refrigerator? I'd say it's probably close to 10 years old. AFAIK, the UPS reports the wattage draw correctly (at least, the values were within expectations when I was using it with my desktop workstation). The manual for the fridge says 115v / 10 A but it doesn't seem to use anywhere close to that.

Additionally, are there any hidden risks to running a refrierator from a UPS? It's a pure sine wave UPS, so the power should be as clean as or cleaner than utility.

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