Home Improvement

A handy design

Finally sucked it up and replaced our worn out water pressure regulator. Installed a shut off valve as well so I don't have to shut the water off at the meter every time.

The old copper with globs of solder is not mine. Whoever installed the water lines when this house was built should not been allowed near any tools, ever.

Case in point:

I’m not sure Home Improvement is the correct sub for this, but I’m looking to replace my dual flush actuators with metal ones instead of these chromes plastic ones that corroded due to the bleach fumes from using bleach bricks in the tanks. I’ve stopped using them, but I still need to replace the actuators or buttons and I want something more robust.

Edit: went ahead and ordered duplicate replacements.

My wife turned on the wall switch and the pendant light over our dining room table went out. The fuse outside didn’t blow—none of them needed to be reset. I checked for power in the light’s hanging cord, but nothing. I pulled the wall switch to check for power and nothing there either. Thoughts?

Context: I found what looks like a regular mildew (white, fuzzy and organic, in somewhat large splotches, easy to clean with vinegar, only found on the wood beams) in my basement when my dehumidifier broke and it was particularly humid this summer in my area. I've cleaned it up to the best of my ability and I have a new dehumidifier that should handle the total square footage in my basement.

It looks like my cleaning is working for the mildew, but it sparked a visceral fear that I didn't know I had which was the fear that there is mold in my house. As far as I can tell, I don't have any but I do have some sites in my bathroom and kitchen that look like they could be good areas for mold to start growing. I.e. I have to fix the sealant around my tub, there are some gaps at the back of my old cupboards in the kitchen, and the vent fan above the stove doesn't actually vent anywhere, it just runs the air through a charcoal filter it looks like.

Are there any tips for what I should look out for regarding the starting signs of mold growth or any kind words that can bring my fear addled mind some peace?

Thank you.

Edit: Ok no worries guys it was definitely just the tub leaking! It just took several hours for it to stop dripping afterwards which is why I was confused at whether or not it was the tub or something else. All is well! It's a very infrequently used shower/tub so I hadn't noticed anything prior.

I'm guessing it's likely the tub drain itself that was leaking or it's possible one of the outflow pipes leaked from there. Either way it's not an urgent fix thankfully! I just posted this a bit hastily I suppose. I appreciate the comments!

Hello. So the other night I had a tub filled up with water for a prolonged period of time. I do not typically use the tub in that bathroom. The tub water was stagnant and thus the leak would not have been caused by inadequate caulking between the tub and wall.

Today I have awoken to find that my ceiling below the upstairs bathroom is wet and there is a dripping noise in the wall downstairs roughly under the tub.

I have drained the tub about 20 minutes ago, but there is still a slow, but continuous dripping noise in the wall below the bathroom. Since the dripping noise is still occurring at the same slow pace, does that mean it is unlikely to actually be dripping from the drain or pipework that drains from the tub?

My unit has a shared wall with the neighbor, so there is a chance that there is actually something leaking from their unit instead of mine.

Is there a way I can troubleshoot this a bit further without immediately ripping out the walls? Even if I can't find the exact source, just narrowing it down to something with the neighbor versus my own bathroom would be helpful.

I can't call a plumber right now because we literally just had a hurricane so they are going to be tied up for a bit.

Thanks all.

I acquired this older Black & Decker Hedge trimmer and it seems to have a special kind of cord. Any idea where I could find this cord or what its called? I have not been able to even figure out what the cord looks like yet.

UPDATE: I cut off the extra plastic to get access to plug it in and the tool doesn't even work anyways. Time for the garbage.

Hey, apologies if I'm not using the correct terms, I'm going to do my best to describe the issue.

This is a photo from my shower. There's a glass "wall" and a glass door. The door is connected to the glass wall by a hinge. The glass wall was glued to a metallic frame but it looks like the glue is not holding it in place anymore.

Is it a DIY job for a new homeowner after the millionth thing broke down this month and is ready to step into traffic? Or should I just hire someone? What profession am I even looking for to get it fixed?

If it's an easy enough fix, what keywords do I use to look up a fix and the materials needed?

Any other useful information or advice would be appreciated. Thank you!

Update: thank you all for the comments. I don't think I have the skills to do this project by myself and don't want to risk glass all over the bathroom floor. I've contacted some people who fix windows and stuff, and they've agreed to this work at a reasonable price.

How bad is this crack? I just noticed it today but I assume it's been there a while and happened after an earth earthquake we had a few months ago.

Is this something I can just fill in with mortar and keep an eye on?

I plan on reaching out to our insurance company to see if they'll pay for it but if not we're pretty strapped for cash at the moment.

Renting a room in an old house. The landlady is one of the rare good ones and cooks for me somtimes so I'm trying to be handy where I can.

This light in my office died, and a few others in the house are in dire need of replacing. Rusted and covered in decades of caked on dust, probably hazardous.

I keep seeing units like this. https://a.co/d/iU3hAd3

But I'm wondering if I should get a few of those or get another bulb style ceiling lamps and just use LED bulbs?

You know the temperature thing you turn round from like 0 to 5 depending on how hot you want it to be? Well I think, in trying to turn it off I may have turned it too far. As the it just keeps turning but in a jerky movement and the number doesn’t change if that makes sense? Like there’s a little plastic arrow that points up at the setting it’s on, so that you know what setting it’s on. But now it’s like the whole thing is turning rather than just the plastic cover with the numbers on.

So I think (well I’m hoping cos the opposite would be worse) that it’s now turned completely off and there is no way to turn it on. But because the whole thing is turning and the numbers don’t change up or down regardless of which way you turn it, it’s possible it could be on any one of the 0-5 settings but only stuck as showing on 0.

Any ideas?

Cheers!

Another before:

It's green Vermont slate, figured out that it was originally painted black and marbled. Victorian thing, faux marble mantels. Fireplace is also Victorian faux, red brick, would have had logs and a red light. I'll be putting in a gas insert at some point.

Started at 220grit, and worked up to 1000. Finished with a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits:

Didn't realize slate could be this pretty and figured:

I made these for a friend but others kept asking me to make more, so I put them on Artisans coop. I've tested them up to 45 pounds so far. What do you all think?

I fixed my roof a few years ago, and have part of a roll of tar paper sitting in the basement. I’m now re-laying some hardwood flooring. Can I use that leftover stuff as underlayment, or is there some subtle but important difference between “flooring” tar paper and “roofing” tar paper that means I ought to go buy some other product?

(If it matters, the house was built in the 1940s and uses materials typical of that era. I’m just doing repairs/small modifications, so I’m patching in like-for-like stuff.)

I moved my business into a new building, and there is a doorway i want to put up a door in it. However the doorway is about 1/4" narrower at the bottom, than the top. Neither of the top corners are square. I am looking for the easiest way with the least amount of work and knowledge needed to hang this door. It is only a barrier, it is not for security. It will be closed most of the time, so i am not worried if it is going to naturally swing open or closed.

Also, the cuts for the hinges on the door and the frame do not line up. I am fine with buying a new door, but I would rather not replace the frame of i can avoid it.

Any suggestions?

Our bathroom sink overflow is driving me crazy with the awful smell.

I know it gets contaminated through regular drainage rather than overflow drainage. If I don’t clean it out at least once a week, foul smelling crud accumulates in the overflow slot.

I’ve changed the drain assembly 2x. I’ve disinfected it, used hospital-grade cleaners, hot water, vinegar. Nothing helps unless I clean the accumulated sludge, and I can’t figure out why it’s accumulating in the first place.

Should I plug the overflow slow? Tape over it? Is it the sink design that’s defective? I’m at a loss.

The project entails blowing out 2 bay windows and putting standard size ones in place. Problem is we need to figure what to do about siding. The last 7 years we have looked at siding and have never came across these. I've considered doing cider slats painted this color but it's still gonna be an eye sore.

And for those who will suggest it, no I'm not going to reside my entire house.

Hello!

It looks like the builders never installed J-channels around the windows, and we've noticed some water coming into the house through the window frame during heavy rain and wind. The internet tells me it's possible to slide some J-channel under the existing siding but I can only find videos on doing it before the siding goes on.

Any help would be appreciated :)

Edit 1: this only happened one during a very intense rain, not all the time.

Edit: Figured I'd update in case it can help anyone. I got in touch with someone to come take a look, and it turns out these windows have built-in J-channels so that wasn't the issue at all.

The problem was where the house wrap actually went behind the window, making that J-channel useless basically. While it was still taped across, that's really the only place water could have come in so there must have been a gap in the seal. So he sliced the wrap, inserted another barrier under it and layered it so that water could never get behind it again.

Also confirmed no water damage/stains around the windows so it's likely all the water that came in was caught inside by our towels.

I'd like to hang vertical blinds on my floor-to-ceiling windows (272 cm in height). Ceiling is concrete and has a rail already mounted.

The off the shelf solutions I see have mounts that are fixed to a wall, not to the ceiling.

• Can I fix a mount to the white window frame shown in the picture?
• If not, is it a good idea to remove the existing rail, and use the existing holes in the concrete to hang a mount for the vertical blinds mount? Perhaps with a right angle bracket?

I had to take down my old post. I got a few messages since then how it is now that it's "done".

I am not completly done, in winter I will install the backwall of the kitchen about 30-35 cm high against the wall with the same material my kitchen counter is. Or I will use tiles to spice it up, but haven't decided what colors would fit or if I will just stick with the kitchen counter as background.

I know it will get dirty, especially with the coffee machine near the wall but thats a winter project for me.

So here is the endresult with the open wood ceiling.

Edit: Oh and one shelf on top is missing that will be installed in 5 weeks though, will just fix the symmetry

I work in a basement office. There is a below-grade egress window, with a 3-4ft ladder and a large plexiglass dome that you can push out of the way.

I noticed a terrible smell when I opened my window the other day, and it was because of a dead mouse that presumably couldn't get out of the recess. On inspection, I found the remains of several more dead rodents there, so this has been a problem in the past too.

Any ideas on how to prevent this? I both feel bad for the dead animals and am disgusted by the smell when they decay. The plexiglass dome has chicken wire for airflow, so I can't necessarily block those off. Maybe there's some method to repell them, or help them escape?

I'm currently working on my sprinkler valve box. It sucks ass. It's dug in the ground. I'm on my knees trying to replace a Hunter valve. This is the second time I'm back here this week because replacing the diaphragm didn't fix the leak. I think I'm gonna have to replace the whole valve, but the stupid valves are in the stupid valve box. So now I have dig out the box anyway (which is something the valve box is supposed to save you from).

I don't get why people think valve boxes are a good idea... It's making maintenance a bitch. It also hid the leak from me for a while. I only found this problem because I had a HUGE helldivers2-style bug breach here. Which makes sense: the box provides shelter and water.

I'm thinking of redoing this part of the Irrigation system and having the valves stick up out of the ground. Obviously now I have to protect against the weather, but that seems like a decent trade off for easy maintenance, easy malfunction discovery, and less potential for a bug infestation. (Don't give a crap about looks.)

Does anyone have any recommendations for above ground enclosures? The main weather I have to protect against is sun. I don't get snow or crazy wind. I just need something like a wooden crate or something to cover the valves.

So it’s currently 100 degrees F in my garage today. I’m sure it will only get worse as the summer goes on. I added some of those insulated garage door panels, but I don’t think they did anything.

Now I’m wondering if I should add fiberglass insulation to the attic space above the garage. Would this help, or just lock in the heat? Would using a radiant barrier up there work better?