Keep living in a fantasy world where literally anyone could be entrapped as a terrorist. You disgust me. Political Islam isn’t a race or a religion. So glad to see your ability to pull the wool over the eyes of western secularists is finally coming to an end.
Not digging into this again but I read the minor who had sex is not a cooperative witness and now denies anything happened. Kind of making this a “neither he nor she’s says but some people who were there say…”
They are an ideological group generally aligned to the GOP but are with the Dems because the GOPs eschatology supports the other team. However, fundie Christians and Muslims alike want to have moral authority and control over people.
They’re not a voting block that’s with us for any reason except we know the least about fundamentalism and seem to have less of a boner for religious Zionism.
Crazy that ex-Muslims tend to flock to the right because the left has its head up its ass and racialises Islam as hard of not harder than the right wing. Racializing Islam is actually part and parcel of modern political Islam as well, and any “liberal” or “leftist” pushing that narrative is a useful idiot.
Bet you a nickel that old Wii now has a toasted GPU chip and graphical artifacts. The Wi-Fi chip apparently cooks the GPU if you has Wii24 enabled.
It’s absolutely preservation in use in an academic sense, just not following best practices for archival of the original data.
Did screenshots taken with the method you mentioned have bloom, Like you would see from an image taken from a CRT? I associate bloom in screenshots from being directly Photographed from the CRT.
Nintendo power had tons of images taken directly from photos of CRT‘s. Some of them may have used your Method, but many of them (Especially contests) Specifically asked readers to send in photos to show whether they’ve done certain things.
Truancy courts are not controversial. Literally holding a parent criminally liable for not sending their child to school. Maybe there’d be less Lord of the Flies gangs of tweenage criminals in every major city if truancy was better enforced.
I haven’t mentioned Project 2025 to my parents or my siblings because it is the culmination of everything they’ve been told they want since they voted for Reagan. It would make them vote harder. So yeah, you’re right.
Not to mention that third parties CAN’T win with our current system except in extremely unusual circumstances. In order for viable third parties here we have to implement a different voting system like ranked-choice voting. A couple states have done this along with non-partisan redistricting but it’s not enough.
I have a DSi that is in very good condition but for the right shoulder button. It does work but I have to press very hard to get it to register. The "lift up the button and blow into it" does actually improve the function of the button for a bit (I use canned air, not moist mouth) but it doesn't take long at all to NOT work either. Does anyone have a REAL solution that actually works short of disassembly and replacement of the button?
As mentioned, fuse was blown on battery board. There was also battery corrosion. Reflowed solder on corroded solder joints, used fiberglass scratch pen to expose traces next to the absent fuse solder pads, and used a wire fragment/solder blob to bridge the gap for testing. It worked. Now need fuses. Overscratch area was covered with clear nail varnish (not visible but it’s there). Someday I’ll get myself some proper solder resist and a UV light.
Three items of note:
(1) the power connector (red/black wire connecting battery board to main board) disconnects by LIFTING the connector out of the socket, not by pulling horizontally.
(2) the D-pad left button didn’t work well. I blasted the rubber pad and external d-pad button with contact cleaner (even though there is no electrical connection involved with these items). There was hardly any dirt, so I didn’t think it would work. Holy shit was I wrong.
(3) the blue power LEDs don’t light. No idea if my board work broke the LEDs or if it happened when the fuse blew.
Sorry about the stock photo. Anyone ever have luck rehabbing one of these boards? Recently got my hands on a DSi XL missing the battery and battery cover. Yellow flashing light of death even with replacement battery. On disassembly, there was battery corrosion. The fuse on the battery board was not only blown, it was totally absent and the pads are corroded away. I could probably rework the fuse pads but it’s very tiny work. Ribbon connector also corroded but might be salvageable. I know there are replacement boards still readily available.
Anyone know where you can get replacement battery covers, besides buying either a parts unit (for stupidly high prices, what do these hawkers think a repair unit is worth?!?) or a full replacement shell for $30? Anyone 3D printing them yet?
One of my favorite mods to do is restoring RGB and S-Video capabilities to the NTSC SNES Jr. (which is a cost-reduced version of the "one-chip" SNES) using voultar's mod.
What I want to know is this: why can I use a cheap-ass friction-welded Aliexpress SNES multiout RGB NTSC SCART cable (EXAMPLE ONLY, I DID NOT BUY FROM THIS PERSON) to connect my voultar mod SNES Jr. to the OSSC, and I have a PERFECT PICTURE on my HDTV, when, alternatively, I use the console5 mod with the same cable and OSSC and I have sync issues (sometimes a distorted signal, sometimes "No compatible signal" black screen from my HDTV)?
Voultar uses a better video amp than most of his competitors, mainly because with the THS7374 you can disable the LPF, while most competitors use the THS7314/7316 video amp with the LPF permanently enabled. But this should not impact sync, should it?
Someone explain why I can use stupidly cheap cables on voultars SNES RGB mod but not other's mods.
13
NES RGB/s-video outputs & power input no-cut mods in 2023? ("Silver Box" replacements)
(lemmy.world)
I have an NES front-loader where I fried something in the "silver box" that handles power and A/V (this NES part has no consistent name in the repair/modding community, that I can tell, so I'm calling it the front loader's "silver box").
I was using poor technique with my multimeter trying to test the voltage regulator and I think I shunted 12v to ground. I have an entirely socketed NES for chip testing and all of the IC's work fine. The issue seems entirely limited to the silver box.
Rather than try and rebuild the silver box, I was thinking of seeing what "no-cut" options are out there. TheRealPhoenix used to sell Borti's no-cut NES-IO but COVID part shortages made the PIC it relies on hard to get, and he lost interest in returning it to production as certain features it had are now unnecessary (e.g., game controller activated in-game reset and palette mod changing is now available with v4 of the Tim Worthington NESRGB mod).
Does anyone know where I can order a "silver box replacement kit" that has the following features: (1) interfaces with v4 of NESRGB, and (2) uses a mini-DIN for RGB output and also has s-video output?
I know I could locate an appropriate PCB that comes with a BOM (parts list) where I could source parts separately, but I'd rather buy a kit.
A lot of the bare PCB's that are posted online seem to require trimming a corner of the NES PCB or the internal case to make it fit, or rely on cutting a hole in the brittle NES case to install a SNES multi-out)
Givent the above info, can anyone recommend either:
- a no-cut kit that is available for purchase, or, if none exists,
- a straightforward PCB that requires no trimming of the hardware or the case with a BOM/parts listing that doesn't require unobtainium
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Precolonial big ag? What on earth are you talking about?