Title is clickbait. They only talk about unsafe rust, which I can see zip being safer/easier than unsafe rust. But 99.9% of code I write is safe rust - which most people just call rust. Even the author calls out the vast difference to writing safe vs unsafe rust:
Overall, the experience was not great, especially compared to the joy of writing regular safe Rust.
Then I would re-write the project in Zig to see if would be easier/better.
Of course it will be. The second time you write any project it will be easier and faster as you learn a lot form the first time you write something. If zig is always the rewrite it will come off better. Almost all rewrites are better or faster, even if you are moving to a slower language - the language makes a difference to performance and ease of writing. But far more does how you write things and the data structures/algorithms you use.
Overall they seem to want to write as much unsafe as they can and are writing rust like it is C. This is not a good idea and why zig will be better suited. But you can write a VM without large amounts of unsafe if you want to and it can be performant. Unsafe can be used in small parts where performance matters and cannot be done without it (though this is not that common I find).