this post was submitted on 05 Mar 2025
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Photography

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Starting off with the puppo! Her name is Stellar, and she's adorable (I might be biased)

Exposure Settings:

Aperture: f/13 Shutter Speed: 1/13s ISO: 800 Focal Length: 28mm

Challenge Information:

I have to post one picture every day, I can take pictures in advance, in case I'm unable to take a picture for whatever reason (vacation, weather, idk) but I still have to post once per day.

I can't post pictures of the same thing within like, a week or two, idk, I might get rid of this "rule" if I feel like it.

Don't be afraid to give me any feedback on any of my pictures, I'm still veeery new to photography and would love any feedback given.

I'll do my best to only share pictures taken with my Canon EOS Rebel T2i (or better if I ever get a new camera) but some days may be pictures from my phone, (I'll let you know if that happens)

All images shared are originally taken as jpegs (5184x3456) without compression, but I always compress to 80% and convert to webp to reduce stress on Lemmy servers and make things load better. If you want a full-quality image, just ask me in the replies or dms, I'll happily send it when I get a chance.

Also you're free to do anything you want with any of my pictures, just don't claim you were the one to take it :)

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[–] KevinFRK 2 points 3 days ago (1 children)

I should have been more careful with my jargon, on rereading my comment.

And I'd guess you are seeing two F numbers because of something to do with a "crop" APS-C sensor, so there's the whole "Actual F number" vs. "Effective F number if had a full sensor".

And do try RAW shots - I'm guessing you have access to Canon's Digital Photo Professional for free, and that will allow playing with the RAW format image (lots more info in those) and saving to JPG.

But anyway, higher F numbers soften the sharpness of the "best" parts of the photo, in exchange for "OK" focus over a greater depth, and loss of brightness. You may well try the experiment and decide you've gained nothing by it, but experiments are a good way to learn. I have to admit to usually forgetting to consider if I should change the aperture in my shots (with the excuse that I take wild bird photos, so loss of light is usually really bad news).

[–] [email protected] 1 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (1 children)

something to do with a “crop” APS-C sensor, so there’s the whole “Actual F number” vs. “Effective F number if had a full sensor”

Interesting, I'm guessing the real aperture is F/7.4, since that would make more sense with the depth of field.

I’m guessing you have access to Canon’s Digital Photo Professional for free

Unfortunately not, I'm using Linux, and it looks like DPP only supports Windows and MacOS, do you know any similar apps I could use?

But anyway, higher F numbers soften the sharpness of the “best” parts of the photo, in exchange for “OK” focus over a greater depth, and loss of brightness.

Yeahhh, I do know the basics of photography, I took two digital photography classes when I was in high school, but that was a little while ago now. From my current understanding, aperture corresponds to the diameter of the shutters as you take a picture, with a lower aperture, more light is gathered from all focus levels, so only the light around the target is discernable. Shutter speed is simply how long the shutter stays open to gather light. ISO is how sensitive the sensor is.

Edit: Whoaaaa just tried taking pictures as RAW+jpeg (it takes both at the same time) so I could compare side by side and wow RAW looks incredible

[–] KevinFRK 2 points 3 days ago (1 children)

On RAW format - it is an interesting format, if you've got something that can process it. Very very very loosely, it contains the photon counts, rather than a JPEG which puts the counts into a set of 256 buckets and tells you the bucket numbers. As such, changing things can be done with much more precision. It also has a far better chance of recovery from overblown or underexposed photos. You also get the picture before computed sharpening and mosaic removal. That said, you must be using something to understand Canon' RAW format! You might want to check it for additional facilities! In passing, the information in RAW format transfers pretty closely to TIFF format. And finally, RAW format files are huge - be warned!

On the F number - yes, though I'm a little surprised you can't choose to have a smaller aperture, depending on the lens you have. A kit lens for that camera is EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6, but perhaps you have something different.

Alas, DPP4 serves my purposes so well for all the processing I want to do, and also being on Windows 11, I've not looked at alternatives.

If you can bear to look in Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/postprocessing/#wiki_which_raw_.2F_post_processing_software_should_i_get.3F

On Aperture - sorry for going over old ground for you.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 3 days ago

Interestinnggggg, RAW files seem like they're 4-6 times as large as the jpegs I was taking before, so not awful, but definitely big!

I'm not sure what made you think I can't change my aperture smaller, I absolutely can! That lens kit looks just like the one I'm using, though I also have another one that's EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6.

And no worries, it's not like you had any idea what my background is.