3D Printing

So, yes, I know that due to layer lines etc, FDM (PLA) printing isn't safe for food, however is there a way of making it safe? Essentially I want to create a draw insert for cutlery, so can I print it, the coat it in something to make it food safe?

cross-posted from: https://lemm.ee/post/600079

I've been repairing a Creality CR-10S Pro V2 and can't figure out this persistent oddity. It prints spiral vases and benchies flawlessly, but regular 3D prints often have these pronounced bumps and thick whiskers sticking out. I think it's more than just Z seam blobs, I'm wondering if it's an issue with the wipe settings not working well in PrusaSlicer...

Here's another example of the issue: https://i.imgur.com/ZHssQWI.jpg

I'm using Kaaber transparent PETG, printing at 215/210 nozzle and 75 bed. I know this seems cool for PETG, but this brand tends to melt and ooze at anything hotter.

Here are my PrusaSlicer retraction settings, they are the default for this printer:

https://i.imgur.com/RqrltUL.jpg

I tried slightly bumping the retraction to 6.5mm and 65mm/s, but it made no difference.

Any ideas what would cause this? I'm getting it while trying to print many parts of the honeycomb storage wall off printables.

It's so easy to swap colors now! I can fit 14 rolls up top totally hidden.

It's so easy to swap colors now! I can fit 14 rolls up top totally hidden.

I'm sure many have this problem of, what do I buy for the person who has everything I can already afford? 'cause I have that problem now. My dad has gone deep into 3DPrinting in his retirement (he handed me down my Ender 3). He's got both an Ender 3 and a resin printer, tho I can't remember what model.

I was hoping to pick the hive mind for some useful 3D printing related ideas that won't break the bank. Some useful utilities that maybe I hadn't thought of. I'd really appreciate any help.

It was a fun project, far, far from perfect, I have a lot to improve but I consider it a good star.

With 0 infill (but 3 walls) the nozzle travel only around the walls and this results in a very smooth surface. It's basically a vase mode.

PLA - Everyone Silk Copper

Printer - Artillery Genius

Hey, I'm a complete newbie when it comes to 3D printing. I have a chance to pick up this printer second hand, and I was wondering what the community thinks of the product. Would this printer be decent for a beginner? Thanks!

My latest creation: a (moving) miniature replica of the Tortuga (turtoise) scene, complete with a working magnet-rail. This miniature/ diorama will be intergrated on my race w.i.p. racing track/table.

I was testing the new tree support function in cura. The results was quite good afterall.

STL file

I created this single Screw BL-Touch mount for my Ender 3 V2 since the fan duct is blocking the other screws.

https://www.printables.com/de/model/512574-single-screw-bl-touch-mount-for-ender3-v2

My kid is turning six soon, and we are doing a Mario themed party this year. Tradition is that we always try and print goodies for the parties... Last year was a Pokemon painting party, we did white blanks off several Pokemons.

This year we are printing rings and figurines. I haven't started on those yet, one month to go!

cross-posted from: https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/270819

The newest episode of OctoPrint On Air, which was recorded on June 15th

• OctoPrint 1.9.0
• The new camera stack
• Work towards 1.9.1 and 1.10.0
• Brainstorming on the format of OctoPrint on Air

Full contents with jump marks available in the YouTube description.

You can find all public past episodes in the OctoPrint On Air Playlist.

Everyone raves about the organic supports, but I've been using the beta for the improved, multidirectional cutting tool.

I have the 3+ and boy howdy am I tempted to get the upgrade kit for the 4 along with the multi-color add on. Does anyone have any insight into either kit? The additional colors sounds so cool. And I definitely want faster motors with smaller steps...

This was the first non functional/prototype prints after I got my Prusa. Pretty detailed for a .2mm print.

Triple the print speed with much better performance. Flexible filaments (I tried a super-soft Shore A88 filament) are no issue at all.

I adapted a mount I found online, I'll put my modification up somewhere if anyone is interested.

Never going back to Bowden.

All other similar extruders (super light Nema14 motor, dual large gears) should perform similar.

Hey there, first post – hope it's okay to put out a request for some advice. I just started 3D printing a few weeks ago (got an Ender 3 S1) and contrary to seemingly everyone else online, I've had no issues whatsoever with bed adhesion, rather the opposite.

Mostly to this point, I've been using 'EconoFil' PLA from filaments.ca (which was tricky to remove until I bought a better bed spatula-thing). Yesterday I got a roll of Overture 'Eco-PLA', which I've printed with a couple of times using organic supports, and both times has left a really stuck-on, almost chalky layer of filament on the bed. This isn't so bad if I'm printing with the same filament afterward, but the Eco-PLA is 'Midnight Black' and I want to switch back to the Econofil for another model, which is 'Bone White' and I don't want the bottom to get stained with the leftover Eco-PLA.

Has anyone had any similar issues? Any foolproof technique for removing stubborn, very thin layers?

Does anyone know of a good resource to download or generate terrain / elevation STL models that are bound to the shape of US states?

I came across this posting but the files are pretty low resolution and look pretty bad at the size I want to print.

I realized I have a spare port on my motherboard to control an extra pwm fan (in addition to my blower fan).

Given the option, would it be better to use it for my hotend fan or for my part cooling fans? I’m primarily looking to reduce noise while printing (I have a pin completely cutting power to the fans when the machine is idle).

Mk 4 Kits shipping
Began shipping semi-assembled single toolhead XLs
first dual-head models in the week of June 19th
MMU3 for mk3s in the end of June
mmu3 for mk4 end of august

Hey all, so this is the biggest thing I've tried to print. I'm using PETG. I'm getting a lot of repetitive bands of underextrusion that seem to stack up and get worse as the print progresses.

What do you think is causing this? Is this just an inherent thing in the way an Ender 3 works by moving the bed?

I downloaded a model but the Homer had several model flaws and the sponge base didn't fit my sponges so I designed my own. I basically kept only the spout.

I started with a PNG of Homer disappearing into the bushes. I cleaned it up a lot in gimp, then used adobe's PNG to SVG converter, which I'll say works very well. Brought that into inkscape and cleaned it up even more. Separated him into colors, pulled them into tinkercad at different heights, then printed him with 4 color changes.