The POTUS can change the official language of the US just by signing an order? Wow, cool. Now I want to be president so I can make the official language Swedish.
Al 3 sites you mentioned are working fine for me right now. Try isup.me to see if other people are having problems.
Is this the same thing they said about comic books, video games, and rap lyrics?
Generally put 1 cup of water into the instant pot to let it make some steam pressure. I usuall put the broccoli on the little wire platform but putting it the water should be fine. Older models let you set the timer to 0 minutes which is fine too. Unless the stems are pretty thick, by the time the pot comes up to full pressure it's ok to stop. Also, use the steam release button to let the steam out as soon as it's time, so the broccoli doesn't overcook.
I've never noticed a bad smell, but instant pot for 1 minute high pressure is quickest way to cook.
These days there is FT8, where the whole conversation follows a template (callsign, callsign, signal strength on a scale of 1 to 9, goodbye) and is just a few dozen characters long. It can be completely automated, so you can have one to one contacts with hundreds of total strangers in just a few hours, with your radio doing all the talking so you don't have to show your vulnerable side. You can sleep or play tetris through the whole session, and then get a list afterwards showing the different countries where your radio has gotten to know people (or at least other radios). It is great for shy hams.
That is interesting. I wonder if it applies to the Debian package, which debian.org presumably compiles.
Checked arithmetic failing should raise an exception like it does in Ada. What happens if you use an out of range array subscript a[n]? Does that always return an option type? Really, these types of errors are rare enough that it's unfeasible to program defensively around the possibility all the time. But they are frequent enough (especially with malicious input) that we've had 50 years of buffer overruns in C, leading to the invention of Rust among other things.
Wrapping and saturating are for special purposes: wrapping for when you're explicitly dealing with computer words (as in bit operations or cryptography) and saturating in some media applications and the like. It's amusing that C in a certain sense is more correct than Rust or Java in this way. Signed arithmetic overflow in C is UB, so the compiler is at least permitted to always check the arithmetic and signal on overflow (use -ftrapv for this). C doesn't have a way to check unsigned overflow. Things were muddled in the 1970s when C was designed ;).
I think it would be an improvement to Rust to fix its arithmetic to work like Ada's.
There is a book called "Doctored" that argues that a lot of the foundational research on Alzheimer's and amyloid plaques was faked. Excerpt:
https://www.sciencefriday.com/articles/doctored-book-excerpt/
Separately, there is supposedly some evidence now that Alzheimer's is caused by a virus, or by a history of viral infections.
Do you mean the rhythm and dynamics, like Beethoven's "da-da-da-DUM"? That removes the tune and there already weren't lyrics. Or do you mean something longer range, like sonata form? Or just general mood? Or what?
It's an old "Soshine" branded NiMH AAA cell claiming 900mah. I'm not about to test it but I did use it for a while. I've standardized on Eneloops since then. Anyway this is FYI so you know that NiMH leaking is a thing.
Rating: 4.5/5.
I needed another headlamp and was familiar with an earlier, micro-USB, white-led-only version of this light. Build quality of both is fine, I'd say not fantastic but perfectly usable for not too demanding purposes, and a terrific value for the price. Claimed water resistance level is IPX6. Headband is comfortable given that this is not a tiny light. I think it is still small enough to not need an over-the-head strap. Weight is about 108g including battery and strap.
Wurkkos and Sofirn both sell these lights and I think I heard somewhere that the actual manufacturer is Boruit. There are various models with different configurations. The H25LR has one white led, one 660nm (deep red) led, and USB-C charging.
Order date: Nov 22 2024. Got shipping notice on Nov 24. Package delivered December 5, so about 10 days transit from China to California, not bad. Cost was $19.99 including an 18650 battery. Shipping was free due to order being above $19. This is hard to beat.
The included battery is labelled with Wurkkos branding and says 3000 mah. It is an 18650 button top. I didn't test the capacity or charge current, but I measured the length at around 66.5mm not including the button, with the button adding another 2mm or so. So maybe it's a protected cell, I don't know. The springs in the light are pretty stiff. If you loosen the "tail" cap by 1/4 turn or so, the light breaks contact with the battery, giving you a lockout from accidental turn-on and also from parastic drain. I tried swapping in an unprotected flat top battery and that worked fine including the lockout.
The UI is fairly sane given that it's a 1-button light with multiple colors and levels that doesn't run Anduril. Short click to activate white led at the same level as last time, long click for red, also at same level as before. Once either led is on, hold down button to cycle through 4 levels. I didn't attempt brightness or runtime measurements.
My general comment about the beam is that it's more directional that I'd prefer, particularly for close-up usage. This is for both the white and red leds. It's not terrible, it's just that I like floody beams for reading and fixing stuff.
The lowest levels of both leds are ok, not super low. Some people appreciate ultra low levels and I can understand that. These are just regular low. I find that level 2 of the white led is about right for reading, walking indoors in the dark, etc. The higher levels are there when you need them.
The red led goes from low to quite powerful, like several watts. I don't quite understand the purpose of a powerful red led. Does anyone really want long distance outdoor illumunation in deep red? I would have been fine with just the low level, or a redesigned light with two full sized white leds, plus an auxiliary small red led. The red led for me is for minimal disturbance to your own night vision and that of others around you. So it should be just bright enough to maneuver in the dark or see an object (telescope, say) well enough to reach and turn a knob. I don't remember ever wanting a bright red light.
There is a handy featue of an RGB led under the on-off switch. When you first turn on the light, that led acts as a battery level indicator (green=charged, etc.) and it stays on for a few seconds. Also, when you plug in a USB charger, it lights red during charging and green afterwards.
The instruction pamphlet says charging takes 4-5 hours, suggesting a 500 ma charge rate similar to the micro-USB version. I.e. it's likely to be the same charging circuit except with a USB-C connector. That is ok with me. The instruction pamphlet also amusingly says that questions and problems should be emailed to [email protected], heh.
A slightly more "premium" approach would be to include faster charging (3 amps) and maybe powerbank output. I do like lights with built-in chargers, as opposed to the kind where you have to remove the battery and charge it outside the light. Sorry about that, Hank ;).
Wurkkos now has the interesting HD10 Mini which is a 14500 powered anglehead flashlight / headlamp with Anduril, sort of like the Emisar DW4 but smaller. I don't really care for the 14500 battery type but it would be nice to have a lightweight 18650/18350 version of this light (the DW4 is too heavy). Or it would be of more interest if it could run on 1.5 volt AA cells in addition to 14500. As it was, I went for the 18650 version instead. For a lightweight headlamp I have a Nitecore HA11 and might get or concoct something ultralight at some point.
Anyway that's my new light day for now and it has been a good one.
Addendum (December 26): I noticed something interesting about the front of the light, center, above and below the main leds (see circled green areas in the pic). There are two milled slots that look like they were designed to hold tritium markers. I guess I'm off to mixglo.com to get some. I'll have to measure the slots but basically 2x5mm or thereabouts.
Update: Mixglo situation is that 1.5x6mm vials are $6.50 so two vials plus a $6 tube of Norland adhesive (1 ml) would total $19. BUT, Mixglo offers untracked shipping for $6 only if the order value is $15 or less. Otherwise you need tracked shipping which costs $22. It's cheaper to make two separate orders. I think I'll order one vial plus the adhesive, try to install the vial, and then order a second vial if the first one goes in ok. I'll update if and when there's a new development. Fwiw, tritiumworkshop.com (in the UK) is another well regarded source of tritium but it ends up costing a little more, depending.
Update 2: more careful examination convinces me that those little holes weren't intended for tritium but were just part of the heat sink-like styling. But, it should still be possible to do something there or nearby between the "fins", possibly with a bit of Dremel-ing. I want to take some caliper measurements before ordering vials.
Addendum 2 (2025-01-12): I just checked and a protected Fenix flat top cell (67.8mm long) works fine in tihs light.
view more: next ›
##flashlight on libera irc.