iridiom

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8
Performance/all rounder climbing shoes for climbers with wide feet and heels (self.bouldering)
submitted 1 year ago by iridiom to c/bouldering
4 comments fedilink
 

I thought I should post this to help save some people some time and frustration when trying to find some shoes.

My street shoe size is 10 1/2 wide with my left foot being roughly half a size smaller and the middle of my foot is pretty high volume. My single biggest problem is always being able to use heel hooks as there is typically this gap of about a 1/4 to 1/2 ish inch gap at the bottom of the heel. I prefer some knuckling in my toes and size for my smaller foot.

I boulder pretty much exclusively, live in Colorado.

With that out of the way my new current daily driver is the Tenaya Indalo (8.5) the Tenaya Iati (8.5) was a very close second. The indalo is slightly wider overall. Other shoes I have tried that have felt like they would work were the Ocun Ozone HV (10) and Ocun Bullet (10). The Scarpa Instinct VSR (9.5) also felt very good but was sized half a size too small I think as I couldn't bend my foot at all.

I tried multiple different shoes and vendors recently and found most shoes too narrow in the midsole area to downsize enough. This includes Mad Rock, Red Chili, La Sportiva.

3
Performance/all around shoes for climbers with wide feet and heels. (self.climbing)
 

I thought I should post this to help save some people some time and frustration when trying to find some shoes.

My street shoe size is 10 1/2 wide with my left foot being roughly half a size smaller and the middle of my foot is pretty high volume. My single biggest problem is always being able to use heel hooks as there is typically this gap of about a 1/4 to 1/2 ish inch gap at the bottom of the heel. I prefer some knuckling in my toes and size for my smaller foot.

I boulder pretty much exclusively, live in Colorado.

With that out of the way my new current daily driver is the Tenaya Indalo (8.5) the Tenaya Iati (8.5) was a very close second. The indalo is slightly wider overall. Other shoes I have tried that have felt like they would work were the Ocun Ozone HV (10) and Ocun Bullet (10). The Scarpa Instinct VSR (9.5) also felt very good but was sized half a size too small I think as I couldn't bend my foot at all.

I tried multiple different shoes and vendors recently and found most shoes too narrow in the midsole area to downsize enough. This includes Mad Rock, Red Chili, La Sportiva.

What’s your hangboarding routine? in c/[email protected]
[–] iridiom 1 points 1 year ago

Oh yeah I would totally agree. Start low weight and go slow. I haven't really had a gym with a full pulley system so I have not really had a way to measure how much weight is removed by what I'm calling sub max or no hangs. It's basically this https://youtu.be/3FNZdixeuZw. After your comment I went looking around and I think I've heard this referenced at around %80 body weight which is much higher than I thought so that could have lead to some unpleasant times.

What’s your hangboarding routine? in c/[email protected]
[–] iridiom 1 points 1 year ago (2 children)

A little clarity to add is once you can climb V4 consistently then you could start worrying about things like actually incorporating hamgboarding but the sub max training you could start doing very early.

What’s your hangboarding routine? in c/[email protected]
[–] iridiom 2 points 1 year ago (3 children)

To agree with other posters here V4 is the first plateau you tend to hit a new climber, then getting to consistent V6; and do not rush into heavy ass hangboarding too soon. Tendons develop much slower than muscle and going too hard too fast will just lead to you hurting yourself and being injured for long periods of time.

Starting with sub max hangs and working into just bodyweight would be good starting goals to supplement your climbing. I tend to follow the advice from Beastmaking in the "little and often" mentality now; I do 2 sessions a week after warming up before climbing that are very short that are up to 6 hangs if I'm feeling very strong, but as little as 3 hangs.

Since I'm working back into V6 after a very long break and I'm a pretty big guy I will do either sets of half crimp and/or 3 finger drag (at bodyweight) with hangs going up to 10 seconds and up to 3 minute rests before my climbing sessions. Depending on how I feel I will cut that down to just one grip type , preferring 3 finger drag.

For someone who hasn't been climbing for very long I would honestly recommend getting as much milage as you can and doing sub max or "no hang" as supplemental to help build your tendons up.

Just my 2 cents and your mileage may vary and all that.