Climbing

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Discussion of all aspects of climbing from indoor bouldering to high altitude mountaineering.

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What’s your hangboarding routine? (self.climbing)

submitted 2 years ago by FermatsLastAccount to c/[email protected]

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I started bouldering late last year and have plateaued at around a V4 level. I feel like my biggest weakness by far is my finger strength, so I’m thinking of starting hangboarding to work on that.

I’m not sure where to start though, I feel like I already tax my fingers when climbing so I don’t want to go overboard and injure myself.

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[–] iridiom 1 points 2 years ago (1 children)

A little clarity to add is once you can climb V4 consistently then you could start worrying about things like actually incorporating hamgboarding but the sub max training you could start doing very early.

[–] scutiger 1 points 2 years ago (1 children)

It's still easy to overdo sub-max hanging though. You don't get any feedback until it's already too late. You only start noticing the problem on your next session.

That's why I was recommending 50% bodyweight if they decide to start now.

[–] iridiom 1 points 2 years ago

Oh yeah I would totally agree. Start low weight and go slow. I haven't really had a gym with a full pulley system so I have not really had a way to measure how much weight is removed by what I'm calling sub max or no hangs. It's basically this https://youtu.be/3FNZdixeuZw. After your comment I went looking around and I think I've heard this referenced at around %80 body weight which is much higher than I thought so that could have lead to some unpleasant times.