hannadryad

joined 1 year ago
[–] hannadryad 1 points 1 year ago

I totally agree. I was focusing on getting the positioning of symbol layers and such right, and I wanted that to be independent of the number of thumbkey so when I add thumbkeys back in (say for weteor/grumpy) the core layouts will remain the same.

[–] hannadryad 2 points 1 year ago

Personally I'm not sure it's worth it longer term. 5x3+2 is my preference but I'm doing this to sort my layers so I can try some of the unibody split keyboards that have less keys to go round.

[–] hannadryad 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Yeah I'm doing it to establish a common layout for my symbol / number / navigation layers more than anything else, so I can expand from there to some 28 and 30 key keyboards as well as the Ferris Sweep with some consistant muscle memory.

[–] hannadryad 2 points 1 year ago

It's my own layout starting from Colemak DH with the "missing" outer keys on another layer.

[–] hannadryad 11 points 1 year ago

Somewhere in the middle? More of late night realisation than anything else.

[–] hannadryad 6 points 1 year ago

To be fair I am planning on putting them back at some point.

I'm working on a core 18-key layout that I can expand anywhere up to 34 keys, so I have a consistent layout that I can use on some of the unibody split keyboards that are usually in that range of keys.

 

I've taken it too far haven't I?

[–] hannadryad 2 points 1 year ago

I use the Hario Switch almost exclusively for pourovers. It's glass plus you can throw in immersions with it. Bit spendy compared to the plastic cones though.

[–] hannadryad 2 points 1 year ago

I think that is where I am heading in my thoughts. In principle I love the idea that "everybody plays the same game" so I am in favour of the single queue, fixed timeouts approach and I see how that naturally leads to MR12 because much of the player base just does not have the spare time for MR15. BUT ... the economy is the beating heart of CS and losing that ebb and flow - as you describe it - either to steamrollering or to irrelevance will be terrible.

I don't know what the solution is. I would personally fix it by removing pistols (except as default secondarys to avoid reloads), increasing the available cash for round one and rebalancing the rifles for greater variation in cost and performance, then adjust the loser bonus to be bumpy enough to return some ebb and flow to each round. But that is just out there theorycrafting 😁

[–] hannadryad 2 points 1 year ago

Beautiful design. I love the casing over the nice view and roller.

[–] hannadryad 3 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (2 children)

Having watched Launders comments I am kind of curious about the effect of having more pistol rounds - in the sense that as he says the maps are designed around full utility usage and guns with certain characteristics, and pistols just aren't suited to execute on that properly so the rounds behave completely differently.

Would we want our economy to become compressed so that there is one pistol round at the beginning of each side to determine a kind of advantage then, from there, there is no significant "breaking" of the economy? Or would we want the opposite, where one break can basically decide the outcome of a side of a map?

The thing about MR15 is that we don't really have to make those decisions because there is always time to recover, especially with the way the loss bonus works. Just the change to MR12 means a team lagging behind might not have enough rounds left to build up max loss bonus for a full buy, and further enhancing the loss bonus compresses the economy as I described above leading to full buys almost every round.

And let's not get into situations like when Valve decides to add a few hundred dollars to the price of an M4 or something like that. MR12 will magnify the impact of every game balancing decision.

[–] hannadryad 4 points 1 year ago (4 children)

Will there be other changes, say to loss bonuses? Breaking will become far more significant because there will be fewer future full buy rounds from which to recover round deficits.

On the flip side, going 12-N and losing a few rounds on the trot will feel far more pressurised because there won't be so many rounds to make up and force OT.

Thinking of the third map of the Katowice final where it was seemingly impossible that G2 could catch up to Ence's lead but they were kind of doing it? With less rounds on the board that game would have been done and dusted before Ence was able to buckle down, win a bloody round and get to 16. That would be your 3-0 grand final folks. Yay?

[–] hannadryad 1 points 1 year ago

Yeah they've left the dipper in it too.

 

I ordered this on a whim and got a cheap set of keycaps off Amazon for it, but now that I have it put together (plastic switch plate, tape modded, gateron cap golden yellows, double o-ringed keycaps) it is sounding and feeling really good. The keycaps were a cheap but they are bright and fun. I might make it my "throw in a bag and take into the office" keyboard.

 

I got a Hario Switch a few weeks ago and, honestly, I wasn't sure where it was going to fit in between my Chemex on the one side for large, slow brews and my Aeropress on the other for quick, single dose fixes. But the Switch has fast become my favourite coffee brewer.

I have not seen much mention of it so I thought I would give it a shout out on here to see if there were any fans and techniques to be shared.

I opted for the 03 off the bat so I had plenty of room for immersion and, having used it now, I don't really see how the smaller size would work satisfactorily so - if you are curious - definitely get the 03.

 

When you are drilling new keys but you absolutely do not want to look at the layout map that shows the keys you are supposed to know already.

68
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by hannadryad to c/coffee
 

I am doing some experiments with my neglected chemex trying to reproduce a look and a taste from a coffee shop in town a number of years ago. The taste was light and tea-like with lots of flowery and fruity high notes and not too much body weighing it down, so not much caramel or chocolate kind of notes, that sort of thing. The look - far less important - was also quite light and clear.

I tend to have light roasted beans in the house from one or two local roasters. What I have tried so far is increasing the grind size to be fairly coarse and increasing the dose of coffee a bit to compensate, and limiting the fussiness of the pours. The nice thing about chemex is the filters are nice and thick so I'm hoping the brew won't just fly through coarser grinds and I should have more flexibility. Here is what I did today:

. 40g coarse ground coffee

. Made a little divit because that's a lot for a flat bed

. kettle heated to 80C

. 80g pre-pour for the bloom

. 30s pour to 340g

. 3m 30s pour to 600g gently

. Brew finished at around the 6m mark

I got lovely notes but the brew was still really well extracted with plenty of body. Don't get me wrong it was a really good cup of coffee but not what I was after. I possibly need different beans but I would like to see what I can do differently with what I have usually got. I'm going to try bringing the dose back down to something below 60g per litre next.

Is there anything different I could be doing with the brew itself? I'm talking about notes and stuff like that but I far from being an expert particularly when it comes to tasting! I kind of know where I want to get to but not how to get there.

 

I am still waiting for my Ferris Sweep to arrive but in the meanwhile I have been keeping busy by drilling Colemak DH and learning QMK. I posted last week about some ideas I had for the layout I wanted to try, which I have since refined and managed to code up in QMK to the point that it compiles! This may sound a bit weird but I am deep learner - its how my brain works.

Anyway there is lots of documentation - which you might consider even more weird I don't know - let me know what you think. All subject to change especially when the .. firmware .. hits the .. metal .. I guess?

 

I am having trouble posting comments to posts in the Coffee community today. I have posted about it in the Support community but since those comments posted ok there, I thought I would try creating a test post here in c/Coffee to check whether is limited to comments.

Anybody else having trouble with comments?

10
Pointing device options (self.ergomechkeyboards)
 

Hiya all. I was wondering what pointing options there were out there for split ergo keyboards? Looking around, on the face of it there seems to be the Apple Magic Trackpad 2 and well that's about it. There seem to be plenty of trackballs at various prices but nothing that looks particularly small and nondescript.

I will give mouse keys a try but I am really not convinced. If I could get my little Chromebook to display RDP colours correctly it may be that having a touchscreen would do just fine as an alternative.

14
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by hannadryad to c/ergomechkeyboards
 

Somebody asked so I thought I would post a link to the Google Sheet I drew up for my Ferris Sweep layout:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1l2nOnsPRKFaykuBirOujkDo7srL1JX_3IZWA8OosrcY/edit?usp=sharing

I'm sure there are far better tools out there but it will do in a pinch.

38
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by hannadryad to c/ergomechkeyboards
 

So I should be getting a ~~Piantor~~Ferris Sweep* from Beekeeb in a number of weeks and I thought I would get a head start and plan my layout - or at least one version of it, influenced heavily by Ben Vallack's video about avoiding press-and-hold mechanics.

Still plenty of fiddling to do. I want to move the WASD-style cursor keys in L3 onto my first three fingers for sure. In fact I've already changed it and made room for insert and added shift as a home key mod on the right. God this is addictive.

*ETA: I am, of course, talking about a Ferris Sweep with two thumb keys as depicted in the drawings not a Piantor, which I was also considering. I guess I was swayed by the alliteration.

 

Reposting this on what is probablty the correct community, which I didn't know actually existed on Lemmy until five minutes ago .....

I’m humming and hawing over which split 36-key or thereabouts keyboard to get, either pre-soldered or as a kit to do the soldering myself (which would be an adventure because it has been a minute).

I’m pretty sure I want five columns not six, because I don’t see the point of giving my pinky extra work. I’m not sure about giving my thumb two or three keys for layers. Three keys would probably give me more options but I don’t want to get all layered out, you know?

Any thoughts on that? I know there is huge potential for going down the rabbithole here but assuming I get one keyboard, would I be better getting more rather than less - six columns - to play with layouts and layers? Or just go with my gut and get 5x3+2 right at the start?

PS: Does anybody know if Beekeebs 36-key Piantor case fit the 36-key PCB snugly? Or is it just the 42-key case with a big gap where the extra PCB has been broken off?

8
Debating which split KBD to get (self.mechanicalkeyboards)
 

I'm humming and hawing over which split 36-key or thereabouts keyboard to get, either pre-soldered or as a kit to do the soldering myself (which would be an adventure because it has been a minute).

I'm pretty sure I want five columns not six, because I don't see the point of giving my pinky extra work. I'm not sure about giving my thumb two or three keys for layers. Three keys would probably give me more options but I don't want to get all layered out, you know?

Any thoughts on that? I know there is huge potential for going down the rabbithole here but assuming I get one keyboard, would I be better getting more rather than less - six columns - to play with layouts and layers? Or just go with my gut and get 5x3+2 right at the start?

view more: next ›