bjg13

joined 2 years ago
[–] bjg13 9 points 1 year ago

I was going to take the time to write a biting riposte just like this, but I, unlike some people, know that it's my patriotic duty to get to work for this ~~Billionaire Payday~~"economy" and work until I die. This country is built on, for, and by everyone agreeing that if you aren't working or buying, preferably both, you better get busy dying. After all, how can I ever hope to be happy unless our benevolent overlords can vacation on Mars? So, put down that damn infernal computer machine, and get out there and buy, buy, buy. We can't have profits down this quarter, or they'll ration our Brawndo! And never forget, it's all very different from slavery, because we are paid, have ~~freedom~~profits, and ~~healthcare~~...Uh, well, it is very, very, different. Anyways, 'Murica!!! GET BACK TO WORK!!!!!!!

[–] bjg13 2 points 1 year ago

"I am Jack's Bum."

[–] bjg13 2 points 1 year ago

Did their own reasearch. Turns out people are very enthusiastic about the thought of nuclear accidents in their own backyards, and the regulations reflect that. Love this democratization of information. Thanks Internet!

[–] bjg13 2 points 1 year ago

No problemo. Sounds like a good job for a nice sharp handplane.

[–] bjg13 1 points 1 year ago

3/8" thick crossgrain splines. They are connecting the tiles together, and there is a spline around the perimeter of the panel that is plowed into the stiles and rails.

[–] bjg13 2 points 1 year ago

Me! I learned from a guy who'd been building doors for 40 years, and continue the tradition of mortise and tenon with cope and stick construction professionally.

[–] bjg13 2 points 1 year ago (2 children)

Flood that section with thin cyanoacrylate glue, then use a caul( flat board with plastic on the face to keep it from gluing itslf to the table) to press it down. If you dont have clamps that deep, use 2x2s to span over the caul and clamp both ends of each stick. Let it dry overnight. Don't use accelerator on the glue. In the future, glue the veneer down before sanding.

[–] bjg13 2 points 1 year ago

Find someone with a Tormek sharpening system with the woodturners kit, and beg to use their Swedish shapening marvel.

[–] bjg13 1 points 1 year ago

Pure tung oil. I've also had nice results with 1/3 tung oil 1/3 polyurethane, and 1/3 mineral spirits. Makes a nice wipe on finish that's forgiving. Pure tung oil is by far my favorite, in good part because ot can be touched up in one spot, or recoated with no evidence of repair or need for stripping. Great protection, and it brings out a depth of the natural beauty ofnthe grain thays just unmatched by any other finish.

[–] bjg13 5 points 1 year ago

If the veneer is what's bubbling, you need to get it glued back down before a light sanding. A thin cyanoacrylate (super-glue) can work well for this, especially if you make tiny slices with a utility knife in each bubble before applying the glue. The thin stuff will wick into the bubbles, and then you can press em down with a caul (flat piece of wood) covered with plastic to keep it from being glued to the veneer, and some clamps for pressure. Let it dry overnight, don't use accelerator. Lightly sand and refinish.

[–] bjg13 14 points 1 year ago

They said we'd have jetpacks and flying cars, and all we got was this dog fucking a robot. I'm calling bullshit.

[–] bjg13 11 points 1 year ago

Take care of yourself so that you may care for others. Get out of there. Just because they're family doesnt mean they're good for you. You deserve better than to be mistreated. You deserve dignity and respect. It will be hard, but most things in life worth doing are. Best wishes.

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