NiyaShy

Hm, not sure if it's (just) the grainy photos, but the skirt line looks pretty uneven. Is that a fresh roll of TPU, or if not, how did you store it? TPU is hygroscopic (attracts moisture), so if you left it outside a drybox it probably got wet. A quick test to confirm that would be to just extrude some in thin air. If you see/hear any sizzling/bubbling, that's the trapped water turning into steam.

General tips for printing TPU: print it slow and with as little retractions as possible (if you're on a bowden setup). You could also try slightly increasing the extrusion multiplier.

PETG has become the second "entry level" filament besides PLA because it's almost as easy to print with (just hotter) and also doesn't require an enclosure. Not as stiff as PLA and has a little flex, so perfect for prints that don't have to be 100% rigid. For example I printed a smartphone holder for my bike out of PETG with 4 "arms" that grip the corners, and it has just enough flex so I can get the phone in and out. Temperature resistance is only a bit higher than PLA.

TPU/TPE are flexibles and available in all grades of flex, the softer ones can be tough to print on bowden machines.

The "kings" of temperature resistance and toughness are ABS, ASA, PC (blend) and PA ("nylon"), but they pretty much require an enclosure and good ventilation (fumes...) and have to be printed very hot, so an all-metal hotend is highly recommended.

Uh, that would be deceiving marketing, a 1kg spool should contain 1kg of filament...
But hey, maybe my view on this is a bit warped because I only buy filament from reputable brands (and usually from their own store) and not from marketplaces like "big A" where hundreds of sellers battle to be the cheapest.

Looks neat ^^ Does it serve any purpose or is it "just" decorative?
Also, is that Kodak banding some kind of filter or did you really shoot the photos with a non-digital camera?

If companies that still used plastic spools are starting to switch to cardboard, I think that's a good thing. Not only is it easier to recycle, but probably also lighter (your typical 1kg filament spool weighs around 200-300g), so the bulk should save some fuel for transportation.

Though I personally prefer using no spool at all (during shipping) 😉 Wherever possible I buy Masterspool refills.

Haven't bothered with one of those since getting just the beads is probably way cheaper.
I store my filament in an Ikea Samla box with added weather strips to decently seal it and just added 1kg of beads (orange to green color change) with a spacer grid to the bottom of the box. Constantly keeps the RH in the box around 20%, and I only have to dry the beads 1-2x per year (in the oven).

The manufacturer of the desiccant beads I got strongly advised to not microwave them since the very sudden change from bound liquid water to steam can lead to the beads bursting/cracking. Slowly drying them in an oven at the recommended temperature (can depend by manufacturer, mine said 110-120°C) is the better choice.

If anycubic did anything similar to what they did on the i3 Mega-S (that I have) on the 4Max, the touchscreen most likely has its own firmware and you need special modifications in marlin so it can still "talk" with the screen.

Yes, the TriGorilla boards aren't powerhouses and don't have enough "oomph" for the newest fancy features like input shaping, but they work. I've updated my printer to a community-made Marlin 1.1.9 release, and it works fine in conjunction with an OctoPrint Raspi.

Don't have a resin printer myself, but there's one more tip that can save you some money in the long run.
As already mentioned by others, you should use pure IPA (ideally the 99% variant) for cleaning your prints, but that stuff can get quite expensive. To keep your IPA "waste" to a minimum you ideally have 2+ containers that you can seal airtight and that are big enough so your build plate + attached prints fit in.
Container #1 is your "pre-wash" for everything right off the printer. It will pick up most of the uncured resin and due to that discolor pretty quickly, but that doesn't matter much.
Container #2(+) is/are your final wash before curing, since you already removed most of the uncured resin in #1 they stay clean a lot longer and you don't have to replace the IPA that often.

Oh, and about your point #4: AFAIK curing is not optional but pretty much required since the amount of UV light the printer itself uses is by far not enough to fully cure/harden the resin. But you don't have to use one of those expensive "curing stations", I've seen more than enough folks who built DIY versions with UV LED strips, tinfoil and sometimes a (DIY) turntable.