F04118F

joined 11 months ago
[–] [email protected] 1 points 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) (3 children)

Flugzug? Landebahn?

[–] [email protected] 15 points 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) (1 children)

Und selbst dann sind ihre leblosen Körper nur so günstig, weil die EU ~~Millionen~~ Milliarden an Steuergeldern in die Tierhaltung investiert. Andernfalls wären pflanzliche Alternativen überhaupt günstiger.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 9 months ago

The neck is still in the original glossy black color

[–] [email protected] 7 points 9 months ago* (last edited 9 months ago) (1 children)

I tried to get the knobs for the stacked pot as close as I could to the original knobs in terms of looks. I painted the gold dots on myself :)

[–] [email protected] 5 points 9 months ago (2 children)
[–] [email protected] 6 points 9 months ago (3 children)

The cavity. Battery is not in yet, and I am using some temporary non-soldered connections until I get that DPDT switch for active-passive switching

[–] [email protected] 5 points 9 months ago (5 children)
 

I am stoked with this new bass I bought, my first fretless ever. I got it mainly because it had an ebony fingerboard, and because basses from this factory and period have a great reputation.

More pictures in comments (not sure if the image upload succeeded for the OP).

List of modifications

It was originally: Ibanez Soundgear SR-1000 1987/88 Made in Japan, in the Fujigen factory Ebony fretboard Maple neck Alder Body Black lacquer finish "Power Curve" active electronics (weird stuff that ALWAYS did a mid cut, switch would choose how much and the knob would choose which frequency)

Previous owner(s):

  • Had it defretted
  • Replaced the body's black finish with natural finish
  • Replaced vol/blend and active "power curve" electronics with passive vol/vol/tone controls
  • Broke the tone pot shaft and applied superglue, fixing the whole thing in place

My work on it:

  • Lowered the action
  • Cleaned and oiled the fingerboard
  • Replaced the foam underneath the neck pickup to bring it closer to the strings
  • Added missing screws to the bridge
  • Replaced the stuck tone knob with an EMG VMC

The superglued tone knob required a lot of brute force. I tried WD-40, acetone, pulled out every subcomponent of the pot meter one by one and eventually had to go to a machine shop to have it demolished with a heavy duty drill. But it's out and my active parametric mid EQ is in!!

So now I have 2 volume pots, and a stacked knob for the active mid EQ: botton for frequency (200-1000 Hz) and top for cut/boost.

Pretty unusual setup but it works well for me. I like setting a mid boost on the higher frequency for extra nasal/trombone-like fretless "burp" sound on the bridge pickup, while boosting lower frequency gets a more supportive "Precision bass"-like tone. The mid cut is nice for more percussive playing (using a pick or when slapping).

I am considering changing the vol/vol to vol/balance but that means you can never have the full unfiltered tone of both pickups when switching to passive mode. I am also considering adding a second 9V battery so the EMG circuit has more headroom. I do notice compression with some settings but I'm not looking forward to drilling in the small body and I don't think it will fit in the existing cavity.

Planned future work

  • Replace the disconnected SPDT on/on switch with a DPDT active/passive switch
  • Have the fingerboard levelled

What do I play with it?

Honoring the birth period of this bass, the 1980s, I have been playing a lot of Pino's work with Paul Young: "Wherever I Lay My Hat", "Gonna Tear Your Playhouse Down". Also Kate Bush' Wuthering Heights.

"Come Back And Stay", "Babooshka" and Paul Simon's Graceland album ("Diamonds on the Soles Of Her Shoes", "You Can Call Me Al") are on the to-do list.

Do you have any suggestions? Songs to play and modifications to make to the bass?

[–] [email protected] 32 points 9 months ago (3 children)

Oh wow, so the schematics are published, the repair procedure is documented and you can 3D print the parts yourself? Sign me up for the open source shower!

Oh you thought open source meant sharing your secrets? Nah it's actually more common to see secrets in the code in closed source projects than in projects that were open source from the start. In open source software, you need to set your own PP_SIZE as an env var or provide it in a .env file or keyvault.

[–] [email protected] 34 points 9 months ago

Red Hat (Enrerprise Linux) & HashiCorp (Terraform) closed the source of their products in different ways, also fucking over their community of clients and contributors, though their reasoning seems slightly more sane than "no more free money, aaargh!"

[–] [email protected] 2 points 9 months ago* (last edited 9 months ago) (9 children)

To Nole Skum it is a joke. He has a total wealth of about $270 billion. $250 million is approxinately 1/1000 of that.

So divide your wealth by 1000, think of how you would feel losing that due to a rare event, while you knowingly took the risk. Does not seem like a big deal to me at all.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 9 months ago

After spending all morning pouring acetone on the ridge and scraping off bits of CA glue, I went to the professionals (the mechanical department at my girlfriend's lab). They used a heavy-duty drilling machine. Due to the way the nut was glued on, the whole shaft assembly started spinning with the drilling machine, but after a few tries, the drill had damaged a large enough part that the nut finally came loose. I saw some smoke rise from the drill as whatever spirit haunted the tone pot finally found peace.

The cursed potmeter is no more.

7
submitted 9 months ago* (last edited 9 months ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

I recently bought this modified Ibanez Soundgear SR-1000 1987. Some past owner had it defretted, replaced the electronics with passive vol-vol-tone, replaced the black finish on the body with a natural one and somehow got the tone pot stuck. No problem, I thought, I'll just remove it and replace it with an active stacked pot thingy.

But the problems started when I removed the screw holding the knob and the knob stayed put. After a lot of WD-40 and brute force, I managed to pull it off to find the cause, and the next problem:

The potmeter had once broken off and been superglued into place. The superglue affected not just the potmeter itself but also the knob, which was solidly stuck to the upper part of the potmeter (right in the picture), and the locking nut holding the potmeter in place in the body.

I know acetone dissolves superglue, but I am afraid it will also ruin the finish. Is there any other way I can get this cursed tone pot out of the bass?

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