BOFH666

Oh boy this sucks... I'm running a ender 3v2 with a pi4 and created a custom USB cable without the 5V connected, just to be on the save side.

Creality should really do a better job..

They should call doppelmayr and get some proper hardware installed.. every single ski lift in Austria is better equipped..

This is nice! When in need, this can be a life saver. Thank you!

Recently switched from Marlin to Klipper. It looks like there is a sample configuration for your N32 board. Maybe a good custom firmware for your printer..

To flatten the learning curve, I've installed the Mainsailos image on a raspberry pi 4 and followed a lot of documentation / YT to get things up and running. The results are great, still got to get input shaping and the resonance measurements, but quite a difference!

I'm using a bl-touch. So the firmware will need to know the delta between the tip of the probe and your extruder (the z-offset).

I doubt creating a mesh without a probe is possible. At the moment I use a mesh with 9*9 points. This gets saved to eeprom and (see the other comment) loaded at startup using a g-code. I let it do a three-point probe after hearing the bed, so the software knows if it needs to tilt the mesh.

I do use octoprint, but these capabilities are all embedded in the software by mriscoc.

I own an Ender and installed alternative firmware (mriscoc professional firmware) which gives me a feature to probe the bed on multiple points and store this mesh in memory.

Now the firmware 'knows' about all the holes and hills on the bed and compensates for it.

You want to look for terms like bed mesh leveling, when you've got a probe attached, this technique can really help.

Holidays are coming, maybe I can find some time to give it another go. Last attempts was 20mm/sec, but maybe it needs even less speed.

If everything else fails, I'll reach out here. Thanks.

Yes, this is really soft material. Got the printer to produce some results, but a lot of blobs between gaps. Never achieved nice gaps between edges.

Tried this but my result is nearly as good.

Really, really nice results!

I've been spending too much time in testing with fiberlogy 30D material on an upgraded ender 3v2 (direct drive, pei etc.etc.)

Gave up after three dozen test prints and sub-par results. Back to petg with great results.

Ok, not to be negative here, but there are a lot more improvements to be done to an E3v2 before it will be a fire-and-forget printer.

• mainboard: the 4.2.7 has better drivers, but tuning the vrefs properly, will eliminate heat in both drivers and servos.
• the design is wobly, add a second z-axis servo, lead-screw etc and couple both axis using a timing belt. This will really eliminate deviations.
• add diagonal supports to the frame. This will make it more rigid and combined with the z-axis enhancements, will result in more precise prints.
• dump the original cooler and opt for something like the brissfang, add better fans (the original creality fans didn't last long here)
• print on a flexible metal sheet. Adhesion is great with petg and getting prints of the bed hasn't been easier (just flex the sheet)

You might want to put the printer in an enclosure, so the temperature is more stable. And replace your firmware.

Thanks! I'll give it a go tomorrow. At 'toothpick holders' dimensions it probably be finished really quick. :-)

Will increase the size, thanks for the heads-up.

Looks great! Can you share the STL?