That looks pretty damn clean to me but I'm from MN so I'm also used to complete rust buckets. It sounds like they just don't want to work on your vehicle. I've known shops where rather than turning down a customer they just send them an absurdly high quote to get them to go elsewhere. I'd just take it to a different shop.
mechanicadvice
That's what Im going to do. I didn't think my car was that bad. They've mentioned before they never seen a car with rust, when I took it for other things in the past. It just needed an alignment and was shocked when they said it'll cost $3.5k in repairs.
It doesnt look good, chief. Ive worked on worse but it was my own junk. Theres a bit of rust but not that much. The bushing on the lower control arm is probably toast and the nut and bolt will need to be replaced, not sure if kias control arm bushings can be replaced or the whole arm has to go. Your inner tie rod end threads are gone in that picture which means they really cant adjust your alignment. Im not sure what is the defective part about the trailing arm. If you want a second opinion take it to another shop but theyre probably going to tell you the same thing once they lift it. Suspension work takes time and shop time is expensive most of that quote is gonna be for mechanic hours and not parts if that helps. How many winters in chicago did you drive this kia through?
That's basically what the rep told me. Shop hours is where this will cost me the most.
I drove it from 2015-2021, so it's been a few winters.
The rust has hit all the exposed metal surfaces that didnt have paint or some other protection like grease or oil, which reminds of northeastern winters and the salt damage. The threads on the tie rod have collected all that water/salt/slush mixture and made them dissolve, the bushing problem probably wasnt caused by that, but there is no way to guarantee that. Florida has rust problems but not usually under the car unless someone spends time driving through salt water. Why are you looking to get an alignment? Are you feeling vibrations or constant pulling in the steering wheel when driving?
The steering wheel is very slightly off center and when I'm driving at high speeds the car doesn't stay center. I basically have to adjust it constantly when driving on highways. It's not the biggest deal in the world tho. I thought for $115 Ill get it fixed but then they came back with $3.5k.
Did you get a copy of the alignment as measured and the itemized recommended work? Posting those can be helpful in this case.
The hot wrench(torch or induction heater) can do a lot of serious work on moving rusted nuts for an alignment. It does alter the properties of the metal, so I can see a shop not wanting to use that technique for a part they are not replacing as part of their policy for safety reasons. Local laws may also dictate if that is an option, but we are talking about Florida here so I would be surprised. Maybe the bushings are tearing and that is the big cause for the replacement on top of them being scared to try and move anything with heat. It does looks like they tried to turn the nuts, but it was more force than they are used to due to the rust.
The front tie rod ends(3rd photo, center, left side) are what adjust the steering wheel position and the toe(front to back angle of the tire, effects tire wear and handling). They look like they can be heated and adjusted, but you don't know until you try and it could be so bad that the inner tie rod needs to be replaced along with the outers.
The rear lower control arm(2nd photo with the big spring on it) of the rear adjusts the camber(top to bottom tilt of the tire, a little toe as well usually. Effects tire wear and tire grip in turns at speed). That adjustment looks pretty rough, but I have moved worse with heat and some penetrating lube, more heat, and a hammer.
The forward upper control arm(1st photo, adjustment point not really visible) of the rear adjusts the rear toe. Usually it would be the rear upper control arm(2nd photo with "RR", bolts not visible.), but Kia did Kia things apparently. Can't comment on how it looks for obvious reasons. From what I see, it doesn't look horrible.
The trailing arm is on the left side of the first photo. I don't know why they would want to replace that unless the non-visible bushing is shot or they expect to have to replace it as part of replacing something else, I guess. There is no adjustment on those, AFAIK.
The rubber bushings on the rear that the adjustment bolts go through can stick to the bolt and prevent meaningful adjustment. They can be freed up, but it sucks to do and may ruin the bushing sometimes. You have to remove those bolts to replace the parts and that can mean destroying the rubber bushing to make that happen.
Overall, I say get a second opinion. The dealer tends to err on the side of caution, 3rd party shops can be more lax. I don't blame them for wanting to replace everything rusty, they aren't used to working on rusty cars. I'd tell you that it might need some parts replaced, but I would throw some heat at it if you let me give it a shot and reassess the situation based on how the rubber fairs. Replacing all the relevant parts as recommended would save you headache later, given the likely miles and past location. So if you want to keep the car long-term, I could justify it as a reasonable idea.
One final note, never buy a Kia or Hyundai or get rid of them before the bumper to bumper warranty expires. They are terrible cars for a lot of reasons and rust has almost nothing to play in that.
I lived in Georgia for a while and brought my car from the north along. Shops had a similar reaction - "that's a lot of rust!" - when in reality the car was fine, they just weren't used to seeing any.