this post was submitted on 12 Mar 2024
6 points (100.0% liked)

Cars - For Car Enthusiasts

3747 readers
71 users here now

About Community

c/Cars is the largest automotive enthusiast community on Lemmy and the fediverse. We're your central hub for vehicle-related discussion, industry news, reviews, projects, DIY guides, advice, stories, and more.

Rules

founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
 

We're preparing to move about 1000mi.

I'm getting my truck ready to tow a trailer for our three potbelly pigs, two cats and a dog.

'98 Ranger XLT with 4.0L V6, auto trans. Rated for 5900lbs tow, 9500 gross. Even has the overdrive disable and good rear end ratio.

I'm adding a Redarc Liberty brake control. The 7-way plug kit I got includes 30 and 40 amp auto reset breakers for the control and trailer power.

Here's the thing. I don't like the idea of an automatically resetting breaker at 30 amps or more due to the risk of fire or frying the electronics in my truck. I would prefer to install manual reset breakers. I understand that an auto reset might allow some brake capability in the event of a short and that is why they are used. I just don't feel like the auto breaker justification is that likely vs the other risks of auto breakers.

How long does it take the auto breakers to reset?

What are the real world risks using manual reset breakers?

Opinions/thoughts greatly appreciated!

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] stevestevesteve 4 points 3 months ago (11 children)

To answer any of your questions we'd need to know what 7 way plug kit you got. Depending on the type of auto reset it can be minutes before reset, seconds, or it might stay disconnected until power is cycled.

Frankly I think you're overblowing the risks in all scenarios here. If you have a short in your brake circuit that blows a breaker, they're not going to work anyway regardless of what kind of breakers you're using. Auto reset breakers aren't going to fry your trucks electronics, nor should a short, because you should also have a sensible fuse on the circuit (unless you hooked up directly to your battery you probably do).

[–] Machinist 0 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) (10 children)

7-way kit is ETBC7 from etrailer. Breakers included are Pollak PK54230 and PK54240. These are thermal overload breakers and typical of 12V auto reset breakers. They get hot and a bimetallic strip flips up breaking the circuit.

These breakers are used instead of a fuse. That's why I'm thinking of using manual reset.

I can just see them ticking away if there was an unattended short.

Edit: Also, the instructions on that ETBC7 kit include grounding directly to the battery. I assume, since so many people suck at electrical, that's the safest way to ensure there is a proper ground. I'll be making my own good ground somewhere with bare metal.

[–] Three_word_reply 2 points 3 months ago (1 children)

Just put an additional fuse rated just higher than the circuit breaker inline

[–] Machinist 1 points 3 months ago (1 children)
[–] Three_word_reply 1 points 3 months ago (1 children)

Your fear is burning your truck down because of the breaker auto-resetting and causing a program, right? Adding a fuse before the breaker will allow the breaker to operate normally. But if it's a serious problem, like an actual short and not a temporary overcurrent, the fuse will blow and not reset.

[–] Machinist 1 points 3 months ago

That's a pretty good idea. I've got Maxi fuses in 40 and 50amp values. Maxis are slow blow, IIRC. May do this.

load more comments (8 replies)
load more comments (8 replies)