this post was submitted on 19 Feb 2024
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How difficult would it be to increase the build plate size of a 0.2R1 from 120 to something larger like 200mm? I would be OK keeping the 120mm Z-axis print height

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[–] [email protected] 1 points 10 months ago (1 children)

I have a decent deal lined up on a V0, but the 120mm X and Y limit is a bit small for me so I'm not sure I could live with that in the long run

[–] IMALlama 1 points 10 months ago (1 children)

IMO v0s are a good second printer for someone with a larger printer or for someone who tends to print smaller items.

I have a 350mm 2.4 that I built because I wanted an upgrade in function/quality of life over my 200mm i3 clone and because I often ran into walls with the bed size because I tend to print larger items. That said, I still have the need to print smaller things. A large printer takes longer to heat soak than a smaller one, but if you print PLA/PETG this doesn't really matter. A larger printer will also be limited in terms of acceleration, although it is way faster than my old i3 clone was.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago) (1 children)

I have a 230mm bed slinger already, but wanted something for ABS/ASA, which will probably be printing smaller parts mostly, so the 120mm is OK for that. I kind of just wanted to get rid of the other printer so I still only had one, but the 120mm build plate of the V0 makes that a bit hard.

[–] IMALlama 2 points 10 months ago (1 children)

For ABS/ASA, a V0 will likely be less frustrating. Larger ASA/ABS prints in a big printer invite warping for two main reasons. The first is just basic physics, larger parts have more material for tension to build in so they'll be more likely to warp. The second is chamber temperature. By their nature, smaller printers will have smaller enclosures with less surface area, which means you'll be able to get it toasty in there with less effort/modification. My 350 with just the filter installed and the stock 3mm acrylic panels struggles to get much above 40-45° C in my 65° F basement - even after soaking for two hours. I'm aiming to bump my chamber temp another 20° C to reduce/eliminate warping, but that's likely going to require a decent amount of modification.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 10 months ago (1 children)

Hmm, that's a good point I didn't consider. I didn't think the larger printers were struggling that much maintaining higher chamber temps.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 10 months ago

It's a lot of volume and a lot more area for loses. You're only really heating the chamber with a what a 750 W heater to heat the build plate, by default you're only getting natural convection and radiation to heat the interior, bed fans help and so does something that recirculates the air in the chamber. I generally don't have issues with abs on my 350 mm v2 but larger, less substantial prints will have issues, I'm dropping some extra bed fans in when I do some upgrades this week which should help me get higher temps