this post was submitted on 12 Jan 2024
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So it is essentially taking away some snips from the endings of last year fruiting branches, stick it in soil and hope for the best.
I'll try that.
Hardwood or softwood? Isn't that usually a sorting system for lumber?
I live in a mountain area, near 800 meters altitude, so cold and wet winters but hot and dry summers. The area is still considered volcanic origin but so old it doesn't really matters anymore. I think I need to have soil tested for acurate profilling, when it is properly clean.
Pretty much. Use rooting hormone for better results.
You can't really go wrong. Just experiment and find what soil the tree likes and it's preferred climate.
Just means the age of the shoot. If it's established it would be hard whereas new growth is green and soft. Both have pros and cons.
I'm currently playing around with grape vine cuttings. Hardwoods seem harder to get going but do better in the long run.
The pear tree is established so it should react well to climate and soil.
I'm going to risk and take a few cuttings as soon as possible, take a few shovels of soil from around the tree, fill some pots and stick the cuttings there.
I have a patio where I can keep the plants more closely watched and tended.
Check out YouTube vids how to do it. Take your time.
Can always ask an expert how to do it
I have talked with a few so-called experts but the focus is always on why my interest on such old trees, when I have much more commercially viable varieties readily available, and/or the work and time invested is not economically worthy of the effort.
It's a die hard mentality of turning a profit when my concern is conservation.
Fair enough. Don't see why it would make a difference. If they just use the same techniques. Would be same process. Can ask them to show you the profitable variety and then just use the same for any other tree
They want me to chuck aside my trees to buy from them.
Don't sound like experts then. More salesman.
Once you have a single tree you have unlimited trees. Can take cuttings for life.
That's the experts I have available, unfortunately. Amateur gardeners no longer worry developing the skills others would as it has become simpler to just buy trees from nurseries. The professionals become formatted.
True but hobbyist would
Your trees are hardwoods, yes, but Hardwood and Softwood in this case refers to what age the propagated branches are. Softwood cuttings are taken in early spring to early summer from new growth. Hardwood cuttings are taken in late fall or winter from those same age of shoots, just allowed more time on the tree. Semihardwood cuttings are taken in summer and fall.
Pit trees like what you have are best reproduced via grafting younger shoots (ie softwood) onto rootstock in early spring.
If you want to make cuttings, then softwood or semihardwood is best. Be sure to use rooting hormone, and start them in perlite! Keep the perlite moist but not soggy and keep a humidity tent over the cuttings for a while, to reduce moisture loss in the leaves.
Be very careful when taking cuttings, especially in spring and summer; pit trees, especially cherries, have many fungus diseases that love a fresh cutting. Fireblight being the most devastating example.
I was considering trying to stimulate root growth directly on the tree for the cherry, as it has some nearly perfectly vertical branches that would make proper trees from the start.
The apricot, after your remark, worries me. The tree is old and frail. It would be wonderful to just clone it straight from cuttings but now it feels risky.
Just be very careful, and sterilize your tools between trees. Look up common diseases like fireblight and Cherry Leaf Spot and learn how to spot them. With Prunus, an ounce of prevention is really worth a pound of cure.
If you want to air-layer, the best time is probably going to be early summer (unless you get really hot dry summers; then do late spring). You ring the shoot (you can leave a small section of bark across the gap if you want, and that can keep the shoot from dying back, but FYI that can also sometimes make the graft wound just heal over instead of make roots). Wrap a nice wad of damp sphagnum moss around the wound, then wrap that in plastic, and tie the plastic firmly but not tightly to the branch both above and below to seal in moisture.
You may need to drip some water into the bag of moss if you have a drier spring; the moss should be damp at all times but not soggy. Wait a few months and you should get roots.
That being said, rooting cuttings and grafting tend to be much more successful with Prunus. Some trees just take to certain propagation methods better than others.