this post was submitted on 17 Oct 2023
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Bicycle Touring and Bikepacking

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For all the pedal pushers out there that love long distance cycling. There are no gear requirements and no 'minimum distances' here.

Have you ridden for a cheeky overnighter or a 3 year global trek? Doesn't matter, you're welcome here.

Have you got panniers, bikepacking bags or just a backpack with the essentials? Doesn't matter, you're welcome here.

Have you got the latest in carbon engineering or your dads old 10 speed from the 70's? Doesn't matter, you're welcome here.


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I was cyling from Freiburg, Germany through the Jura, Vercors, Drôme, Verdon to Nice, France.

Title picture is in the Drôme area, which i absolutely loved.

Most of Jura i cycled on the swiss side, weather was not great but it was still nice, basically following the cycle route 7 until i reached the grand tour de jura section on the french side after the lac du joux. I kinda liked the french part better, seemed wilder. Photo is in Switzerland on the col de l'aiguillon, from there was a fantastic downhill to the village Baumes.

Approaching the Vercors it was all full of walnut trees and i rode to Pont-en-Royans with the plan to ride up the Goulet:

(Pont-en-Royans)

On the way to Goulet i learned that it was not passable because there was a tunnel construction and i returned to Pont-en-Royans to ride up the Gorge de la Bournes instead. I had read up a bit about those crazy vercors roads beforehand, mostly on this site, which i guess is aimed at motor cyclists. Amazingly the road up the gorge was calm, not much traffic at all, i guess the season was over already in September in the Vercors.

Later that evening was a heavy rain storm, next day was still raining hard, tried to wait it out to climb up the col de Rousset, which would lead me out of the Vercors, but it was hopeless and so i rode up to the col in the clouds and pouring rain.

(Col de rousset before the tunnel)

At the col there's a tunnel and on the other side of it, the clouds were less dense and you could get a glimpse of a view. A gang of middle aged moped drivers from Grenoble were on the other side, we chatted for a bit and a french guy on the first day of his first bikepacking trip showed up as well. We chatted and made an appointment to meet for a coffee and talk some more in the town 'Die' which was at the end of the descend, then we descended. Weather cleared up and it had these amazing heat swells on the way down. After the downhill you can very much feel and smell the south already. Ithought Die is a nice town with a hippy vibe.

Next day i went into the Drôme area or Dioise (i am confused myself) and it was amazing, weather started to be great and it felt southern. I cycled along the Roanne valley:

(There is a "tunnel" hidden in this picture)

Next day continued going south, to go on a campsite in Buis-les-Barronies, which was still less then six Euros in 2021. The municipal campsite, right by the town, there's also a privately run one which i assume must be more expensive.

(Buis-lesBarronies in the valley, Mont Ventoux in the background)

Buis-les-Barronies is kind of a tourist hub in that area, but still a beautiful town, has an outdoors sports store where i could get some gas for my stove. Big Pizzas in town.

I then wanted to cycle to the gorge de meouge, but on the way there i saw a sign by the road announcing another scenic route along a different gorge, so i took that too and had a nice lunch snack / swim at the Gorge d'Aulan:

Then on via gorge de meouge (great swim too), sisteron towards the Gorge du Verdon. It is a very popular tourist site, but traffic was fine, all people in cars are also there to look out of the window and drive real slow. The village Moustieres-Sainte-Marie is also a tourist hotspot, but it is also an amazing village, would recommend a stop.

After having a swim, a view down to the Lac de Sainte Croix on the way to the Gorge route, from the town Aiguines, you can also see the Plateau Valensole on the other side of the lake, which is probably pictured on the cover of you Provence travel guide with its lavender fields.

(Gorge du Verdon)

I was riding the southern side of the gorge even though everybody told me the northern one with the loop would be better, but it was longer and i was getting to the end of my trip and didn't want to put myself under time pressure, so kept going south which was also very nice. Tons of Herbes de Provence, mostly thyme on that mountain.

I was figuring out a lot of my routes with a michelin map and their marked scenic routes. I was riding along a mountain plateau and wondered why it had beeen marked scenic, then i saw a sign "clues de greolieres" the plateau opened up with a fantastic view into the valley and it, an amazing experience riding down this to greolieres (beautiful village).

Then i basically just rode to Nice via Coursegoule and col de vence. Gotta send this post now before it is wednesday :)

edit: damn, 10 seconds late, haha.

another edit: Sorry i am a bit drunk and wrote this on the train back home, hope you can still enjoy the photos. Absolutely love cycling in France and i want to cycle all of these areas again, just a bit different routes, especially i think the Dioise / Drôme, i thought that was just gorgeus there, not too overrun by tourists, super calm small roads, perfect cycling.

Route if anybody's interested.

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[–] AchtungDrempels 3 points 8 months ago

Thanks to you for starting with the tbt, that was a great idea to get some content going here.

I am not the creator of this sub, i just got appointed as a mod at around the end of my last summers tour. I didn't really like the idea of being a mod because i felt like i was already overly present here when i was 'reporting' live from the tour, but i thought i might as well check out how the modding works when i'd be back home on the desktop. I then just made that sub icon and that was it.

Not sure if i would be a good mod, but i mean, as for now there is nothing to do, i am certainly ready to appoint somebody else instead (actually was thinking of you, haha).

I wanted to do a little resumee of my last trip too, just didn't get around doing it yet. I'll also have some tbt material for western alps trip from last year, looking forward to read about what you were up to in the area. And you're totally right about the change of landscapes, really enjoy that, that was something i started to miss cycling down Norway, but that is for my resumee.

Very much on board with what you say about not planning out too much, i will usually have a plan of where i'll sleep the first night and after that i'll figure it out along the way. Also my route planning is usually just an idea for me, i definitely like to have a route planned that i can follow or fall back on, so i don't have to pull ideas out of my ass every day, but i don't mind at all changing it up on the spot. I tried going completely without a plan once for a week and it stressed me out a bit.

I will be on a little tour next week, but i am completely unprepared still, i was thinking southern France, but i think it'll be too cold, i really need to make a plan tonight so i can start on Saturday. So i should stop procrastinating writing this legthy reply, haha.