this post was submitted on 17 Oct 2023
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Bicycle Touring and Bikepacking

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For all the pedal pushers out there that love long distance cycling. There are no gear requirements and no 'minimum distances' here.

Have you ridden for a cheeky overnighter or a 3 year global trek? Doesn't matter, you're welcome here.

Have you got panniers, bikepacking bags or just a backpack with the essentials? Doesn't matter, you're welcome here.

Have you got the latest in carbon engineering or your dads old 10 speed from the 70's? Doesn't matter, you're welcome here.


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I was cyling from Freiburg, Germany through the Jura, Vercors, Drôme, Verdon to Nice, France.

Title picture is in the Drôme area, which i absolutely loved.

Most of Jura i cycled on the swiss side, weather was not great but it was still nice, basically following the cycle route 7 until i reached the grand tour de jura section on the french side after the lac du joux. I kinda liked the french part better, seemed wilder. Photo is in Switzerland on the col de l'aiguillon, from there was a fantastic downhill to the village Baumes.

Approaching the Vercors it was all full of walnut trees and i rode to Pont-en-Royans with the plan to ride up the Goulet:

(Pont-en-Royans)

On the way to Goulet i learned that it was not passable because there was a tunnel construction and i returned to Pont-en-Royans to ride up the Gorge de la Bournes instead. I had read up a bit about those crazy vercors roads beforehand, mostly on this site, which i guess is aimed at motor cyclists. Amazingly the road up the gorge was calm, not much traffic at all, i guess the season was over already in September in the Vercors.

Later that evening was a heavy rain storm, next day was still raining hard, tried to wait it out to climb up the col de Rousset, which would lead me out of the Vercors, but it was hopeless and so i rode up to the col in the clouds and pouring rain.

(Col de rousset before the tunnel)

At the col there's a tunnel and on the other side of it, the clouds were less dense and you could get a glimpse of a view. A gang of middle aged moped drivers from Grenoble were on the other side, we chatted for a bit and a french guy on the first day of his first bikepacking trip showed up as well. We chatted and made an appointment to meet for a coffee and talk some more in the town 'Die' which was at the end of the descend, then we descended. Weather cleared up and it had these amazing heat swells on the way down. After the downhill you can very much feel and smell the south already. Ithought Die is a nice town with a hippy vibe.

Next day i went into the Drôme area or Dioise (i am confused myself) and it was amazing, weather started to be great and it felt southern. I cycled along the Roanne valley:

(There is a "tunnel" hidden in this picture)

Next day continued going south, to go on a campsite in Buis-les-Barronies, which was still less then six Euros in 2021. The municipal campsite, right by the town, there's also a privately run one which i assume must be more expensive.

(Buis-lesBarronies in the valley, Mont Ventoux in the background)

Buis-les-Barronies is kind of a tourist hub in that area, but still a beautiful town, has an outdoors sports store where i could get some gas for my stove. Big Pizzas in town.

I then wanted to cycle to the gorge de meouge, but on the way there i saw a sign by the road announcing another scenic route along a different gorge, so i took that too and had a nice lunch snack / swim at the Gorge d'Aulan:

Then on via gorge de meouge (great swim too), sisteron towards the Gorge du Verdon. It is a very popular tourist site, but traffic was fine, all people in cars are also there to look out of the window and drive real slow. The village Moustieres-Sainte-Marie is also a tourist hotspot, but it is also an amazing village, would recommend a stop.

After having a swim, a view down to the Lac de Sainte Croix on the way to the Gorge route, from the town Aiguines, you can also see the Plateau Valensole on the other side of the lake, which is probably pictured on the cover of you Provence travel guide with its lavender fields.

(Gorge du Verdon)

I was riding the southern side of the gorge even though everybody told me the northern one with the loop would be better, but it was longer and i was getting to the end of my trip and didn't want to put myself under time pressure, so kept going south which was also very nice. Tons of Herbes de Provence, mostly thyme on that mountain.

I was figuring out a lot of my routes with a michelin map and their marked scenic routes. I was riding along a mountain plateau and wondered why it had beeen marked scenic, then i saw a sign "clues de greolieres" the plateau opened up with a fantastic view into the valley and it, an amazing experience riding down this to greolieres (beautiful village).

Then i basically just rode to Nice via Coursegoule and col de vence. Gotta send this post now before it is wednesday :)

edit: damn, 10 seconds late, haha.

another edit: Sorry i am a bit drunk and wrote this on the train back home, hope you can still enjoy the photos. Absolutely love cycling in France and i want to cycle all of these areas again, just a bit different routes, especially i think the Dioise / Drôme, i thought that was just gorgeus there, not too overrun by tourists, super calm small roads, perfect cycling.

Route if anybody's interested.

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[–] Terces 2 points 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago) (1 children)

It looks incredible. Really seems like you had a great trip and you make it sound so lovely that you are kind of making me want to go too (fyi, I'm in absolutely no shape to do this and have never tried doing something like this in my life).

Okay, maybe a stupid question, but how did you camp? Did you always go to a camping site or did you just pick a spot and sleep there for the night? And...on those multi-day trips...where do you poop?

Sorry.....I'm just curious....

[–] AchtungDrempels 2 points 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago)

I almost everyday used campsites on that trip, i think France has really good infrastructure for that, tons of campsites. I always try to get on "camping municipal" which are run by the communities and are usually quite basic and cheap. Below 6 € was the cheapest one on the trip, but it's not unusual to pay less than ten. I like campsites too because you can maybe chat up some other bike tourers or other people, there's water and a shower... and a toilet. Electricity. I have a gpx that marks all the municipal camp sites, it's actually obsolete file and i need to double check if there is a campo site still, but last year i found a camp site that was not officialy open anymore (risk of land slides), no reception but had still water access and a toilet, and the people from the village (Saint-Sauveur-sur-Tinee) told me i could camp there. Would have not found that site without the obsolete file since it got removed from osm data.

When i am on tour, shitting is a very fixed ritual (different than when i'm home) - Basically shortly after i wake up, i need to go shit immediately. I need to to this before i drink a coffee in my tent, i won't survive a coffee. This will be over quickly, not like i'm reading the newspaper there. And then i'm good til the next morning. When i'm wild camping, i will of course "shit in the woods". I will probably already scout a place for it the evening before. I will dig a small hole or have scouted a bunch of rocks where i can hide the shit. Haha. I used to bury the toilet paper too, but i now switched to putting it in a trash bag and drop it at the next garbage bin. Sounds gross but it's actually not that bad, and i hate finding toilet paper lying around in the outdoors. When i am wild camping close to garbage bins, i will now also shit in a plastic bag, make a knot and drop it. Oh man, haha.

Edit: as for being in shape.. I am in ok shape i guess but i am also kinda old, haha. I don't train any cycling at home or do much other sports. I just cycle around town to run errands, go to the pub etc. The only thing i need to train a bit is my ass, so it gets used to sit in the saddle for longer. So i'll probably do two longer day rides (visit my parents etc) and i'm good. Good week into the tour i'll be in shape. I used to be really scared of riding mountainous terrain, i live in the flat and didn't know how to pace myself on climbs. Now i absolutely love it, i know my pace, have a low gear and take my time, just need to be a bit stubborn and you'll eventually climb everything.

I say go for it if you're interested, i wish i started it earlier, i am also kinda new to this.