this post was submitted on 14 Jun 2023
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Homebrewing - Beer, Mead, Wine, Cider

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As someone who lives in a hot climate where droughts occur regularly and where the groundwater is 80+ degrees in the summer, I've been doing mostly no-chill brewing (letting the hot wort passively chill in an HDPE cube overnight then pitching the next day) to reduce my brewing water usage.

I've been really happy with the results, and I'm finally beginning to nail hoppy styles. Anyone else have no-chill experience who'd like to compare notes?

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[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Your 60 minute addition isn't going to get any more bitterness compared to adding it at 40 mins. I'd use a 60 min addition for bittering and throw the rest in at flameout, like an extended whirlpool.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Is that so? I opened up my IBU calculator and the difference between 40 and 60 is indeed minimal but definitely noticeable for very bitter styles.

Yes to the extended in-cube "whirlpool," it's been working well for me recently.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 year ago

IBU production slows down over time. There will be some increase from 60 mins to 120 but the effect will be a lot less than say 40 to 60. Not saying there isn't a difference, but that it won't be that great.

See this paper for graphs of IBU production over time of the boil. You will see that almost all of the IBU production is in the first 10-15 mins, then it slows right down.

Obviously your taste is the ultimate decider however. If you find too much bitterness then shorten the boil addition, of course. I always add a 60 minute addition, even if it's very small (5g for a 25L batch will do).