cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/2082060
It's done because I've got two other primed but unpainted tyranids ready to go and that feels like more fun than working on this one any more, which is good enough for the table. This is the way.
this post was submitted on 24 Jul 2023
71 points (100.0% liked)
Warhammer 40k
3796 readers
58 users here now
A community dedicated to the universe of Warhammer 40k, a tabletop setting in the far, distant future.
This is a general community for 40k miniatures, art, lore discussion, and gameplay discussion.
Rules
- Keep it civil.
- No memeposts/shitposts. Memes are great but direct them to grimdank.
- Please mark any posts containing realistic nudity or realistic excessive gore/violence as NSFW; this rule mainly applies to cosplay and realistic drawings rather than miniatures. Being that 40k is inherently violent, this is a judgement call, and mods may occasionally request posters add tags.
- No political or social cause agenda pushing.
Helpful Links
- 10th Edition Rules
- iOS Warhammer 40k App
- Android Warhammer 40k App
- 3rd party site for running Kill Team games
Related 40K Communities:
Other tabletop hobby communities:
founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
view the rest of the comments
What was your technique for the highlighting on the body? It looks like you would have had to dry brush it but it also looks really controlled.
It's just drybrushing! If you look at the original model the detail on the armour is fantastic so it was really easy to drybrush some blue on. I did use quite a small drybrush to keep it accurate. I think on the actual GW nids those panels are flat so you need to actually draw the lines on to mimic this texture.
I followed this tutorial, although I didn't have half the paints and had to improvise a ton of stuff https://www.lorenzosasso.com/tutorial-painting-tyranids-with-3rd-edition-color-scheme-high-tabletop-quality/
This is the unpainted model where you can see the armour texture
Oh wow. Nice work! What printer/resin do you use?
It's an Elegoo Mars 3 Pro with Siraya Tech Fast Abs-Like. On Lychee slicer there is a Vroom profile for this combo. Honestly I just set it to that, confirmed with a test print of the Cones of Calibration and it's printed almost perfectly since. Unbelievably good. It takes no skill at all :)