Diamonds, and I switch up between a couple deliver methods. I put concentrate in Japanese cotton or vape wool then put that in either my dynavap heated by induction heater or in my arizer air max which is battery powered hybrid convection+conduction vape.

They both offer different feel and heating style.

I like watching the vapor swirl in the glass dynavap with that that patented american helix tornado swirl h2 body. The induction heater is instant heat up within the minute. That makeshift Pinner mouthpiece allows for finding exact perfect pulling airflow to watch the tornado

Arizer is much more gentle even terp chaser that stretches out the vapor without any risk of scorching the wool. The long dimple glass stem I have is really nice to feather the carb with my thumb to get it extracting milky as fuck but it takes like half an hour to get preheated up properly for concentrate.

Theres a technique that you need to get down basically gotta dry hit the ball of concentrate a few times to get the oil heated up liquid then take the ball out and rip it up to increase surface area of the oil. But once you do, oh man does it crank the vapor! Good shit.

When I was a young head I did simple Dab rigs and dab cups heated with torch. Came a long way since then lol! Night and day difference.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 4 days ago (1 children)

wow great info. I use worse wool than that for vaping concentrates in my tm2. should look at upgrading there.

[–] Smokeydope 2 points 4 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago)

Ooh nice I hear the tinymights are great! Here's a link to the exact cotton I got. I can vouch that its pretty clean and neutral tasting at least until it starts scorching.

Im not sure how TM2 is arranged with its heating system, but I've found putting some balls in the bottom of heating chamber helps with extraction. They collect the heat and even it out when drawing. just turn the device up to max temp and do one layer. Something to consider maybe? Arizer has the stem too close to hot air intake holes so doing this helps with airflow too in my case.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Would these methods work for flower rosin? I use an electric heater with a quartz bucket and a ruby ball and although it's pretty nice it could taste better... Usually hitting around 445F/230C. Is there a way to adapt this method to my setup?

Curious what temp you go for.

[–] Smokeydope 2 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (1 children)

It works the same whether im using diamonds or hash rosin or bubble hash as long as its got cannabanoid oil to extract. It sounds like your using a PID ball injection dab rig, I knew someone who used something like that but never got one myself.

Instead of putting the dab directly in the rig and onto the balls, try getting some vape wool, make a concentrate ball and put the ball in the bucket onto of balls. Then use a carb cap to seal up the bucket as you hit on it. If the balls scorches the wool bad your temps may be too high.

Remember its gonna be a dry hit for the first pull gotta take the wool ball back out of the bucket and rip it open once the oil is liquid to get that surface area.

As for temps, I've found 428F to be where its at in general. Thats what my air max limits at and it does completely vaporize the oils after a few hits. when I went past 428F for my desktop vape I risked flower combustion. Since you have balls you set the PID a little higher to make up the difference.

Generally theres two ways you can go about it. You can have it run hot to vaporize all the dab at once in one big milky hit. This instantly destroys all the lower temp terpenes responsible for subtle flavors. It is also inefficient because the human lungs can only absorb so much oil per inhale. A single lung burster fully milked out concentrate dab hit is almost certainly way more than needed (though quite fun!) your lungs just cant absorb it all.

The other way is to run it just warm enough to get a gentle stream of vapor over a couple of hits. This preserves the terpenes/flavors much better than instantly flashing the dab, and will actually get you higher than one big hit as you can space it out over a minute or two for better absorption of oil. Finding that simmering melting point is a lot tougher than just cranking up the heat, but its worth it.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 3 days ago (1 children)

My setup maybe is not as fancy as you are thinking, it's a banger with a terp' pearl heated with an e-nail, I honestly don't know what a ball injection rig is.

Seems like if you left it in there long enough to put a carb cap on it there would be some scorching action (with flower rosin at least). On my rig even when I dab at 420F the flavor is completely destroyed after the first hit. I bet I could get it a few degrees lower using your technique? I have heard some people suggest that you can and should dab at 380F, which...

I just tried and so I guess maybe it does work. I'm gonna have to get back to you on this one. One (sometimes) advantage of higher temperatures is that more THC will break down into CBN thus providing a more sedative experience.

[–] rishado 2 points 3 days ago

Just my two cents, flavor is almost never preserved after the first hit in my experience. I personally would not recommend you put any cotton in your setup. Your setup should be ideal for flavor but if that's not working for you, look into a ruby insert cup for your banger.

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