bike wrench

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.one/post/3195595

A couple years ago, no tools 😅. I was commuting between home and campus just a mile away, so if something went wrong I'd just lock the bike and come for it later.

Nowadays, just a few to do an inner tube & chain replacement, and some other small bits that might come in handy.

• 2 spanners (one adjustable)
• Backup lights & head torch
• Tyre levers & adhesive puncture patches
• Mini track-style pump
• Screwdriver for the chain enclosure
• Pliers for the rollerbrakes and internal hub gear cables

Picture

I've found the head torch to be surprisingly helpful... Had a puncture in the dark once, and without that I would have been there a while lol

Another designed and 3D printed tool added to my toolbox. This time it is for cleaning individual pistons on Saint / Zee calipers.

It easily rotates 90° by hand.

After rotating it:

Hey gang. I'm building up my bike repair tool set, and it looks like I'll either need to get a set (or several popularly sized) cone wrenches and/or an adjustable wrench with a thin profile.

I figure an adjustable wrench could help service anything from axles/hubs to headsets, which cone wrenches are limited to the size(s) you've got.

Any advantage/disadvantage of one over the other that I might not realize?

My pump won't stay on my valve extenders because it does not have the threading required for it to grip or stay on the valve. Is there any solution to this? Perhaps some sort of adapter?

Would anyone know if the shifter can be used with a vintage XTR 9-speed rear derailleur? I intend to use it in a 10-speed build for an early 2000 GT frame.

Hi all

When I'm on the biggest wrong on my rear sprocket I can hear a light ticking noise when I pedal.

The noise goes away when I keep the shifter pressed down, as the chain is then properly aligned with the sprocket (I think)

How would I adjust the derailleur to fix this? Do I need to change the limit screw or just the tension of the cable?

Pointers into the right direction are appreciated 😅

Thanks!

Normally when gears wear out you just replace them, but hub gears (like Shimano Alfine) this means rebuilding the entire wheel.

Any recommendations for getting them working better without a lot of cost & expertise?

The idea of waxing my chains sounds really appealing, especially since I absolutely hate how dirty my chains get no matter how thorough, or often I clean them.

But I've heard that chains should be waxed often... like every 100 miles, which seems like a lot of work for not a lot of riding.

Is this true, assuming dry, clean riding conditions?

I've been trying to find suitable brake pads for these brakes on my bike; Kool stop and swiss stop have both been recommended as brands, but i can't figure out which actual pads to buy.

I'm not picky, and mostly ride in dry conditions, just want to make sure I buy something that i can mount on my bike and will work!

Building a parts bin bike, on an old Gary Fisher Advance frame. The only thing I need to buy is a bottom bracket. The current square taper 73/113 is toast. I checked the 94 Fisher catalog and that was what it originally came with stock along with a triple crank set, the largest ring being 42t. The only crank sets I have lying around have biopace rings both have 48t on the largest ring. Out of curiosity I installed the drive side on the 113 mm spindle, and the largest 48t ring of the triple just hits the chain stay twice each rotation because of the ovalized ring. Where it's not hitting there still wouldn't be enough clearance for a 7/8sp chain. I think if I went up to a 118mm it could work. Do i just measure the current chain line and add 5mm? How much offset until it badly affects shifting? I've also heard it can mess up the taper on the crank arms. Not overly concerned about the components being a parts bin bike. Just concerned about clearance and good shifting. Should I just the go 113mm spindle and then buy new smaller round chain rings? Thanks

This took me a while and with the help of team mechanic we solved it. Thanks Ryan

Problem: Set up of new Eagle 2 Transmission drive train. Poor shifting or derailleur binding on #2 cassette ring

Steps:

1. Cursed at it on the first ride. No affect.
2. Tried micro adjust but not happy with locations of all indexed gears. No good solution for all gears.
3. Drank beer and complained until I found someone to listen to my little violin’s sad song

Solution: Removed RideWrap frame protector from direct mount derailleur location.

Outcome: Happy riding and less sad beers

I have a Bacchetta Idler Bolt here. Better image from Bachetta. My issue is the Idler bolt is too long and is causing my Idler to go back and forth, which was fine when I had a cassette, but now I have an IGH, and I don't need it to slide. The sliding is causing my chain to pop off at the chainring. If I had a smaller Idler bolt, it would not slide.

I last topped up my front and rear brakes with Shimano's rollerbrake grease after hearing a loud unsightly noise while braking.

The brake performance has been OK so far since the re-greasing, but I'm concerned at how much grease has been coming out consistently.

There are a lot of hills in my area (sadly not an environment the rollerbrakes are recommended for) so my usual braking style is similar to 'cadence braking', where I pump intermittently to prevent overheating and cooking the grease.

Is this leaking something to be worried about or is this normal for my use case?

Hey folks, Im wondering if I should be concerned or if this is normal.

My folding bike (Tern Link D8) has a 1x8 gearset and I've ridden it for over 2600km.

Today while lubing the chain, which I tend to do from the smallest cog while backspinning the pedals, I kept having the chain fall into the second smallest cog.

It happens when spinning fast, but also when it spins slowly.

I've checked the limit screws, and the derailleur barrel knob so things run smoothly when actually pedaling.

I don't recall this happening in previous times I've lubed the chain, and I'm wondering if I should be checking anything else or chalk it up to being normal.

For a pedal like the PD-M520 or the PD-M9100, I see the ± adjustment for tension but no mention of float in the online manual. I also don't see any cleats for different floats like the SPD-SL

Hey, the shifter won't go from 2 to 3. It just skips all together without pulling the cable. It works fine 1-2 2-1. Anyone had similar experience?

I've turned my Poseidon X into more of a road bike and swapped a 46cm bar for a much more comfortable 40cm. The microshift groupset has an externally routed shifter cable that was purposefully long to accommodate a bar bag, but it's now almost hitting my left hand. If I were to cut the cable shorter and feed it back into the derailleur, would I need to index my gears or can I just adjust the tightness with my barrel adjuster and be on my way?

I got fed up with just a threaded rod and washers and everything going in crooked, so I designed and 3D printed adapters to use with ZS44/56 and DUB bottom bracket press. The last token works like a centering tool, so everything is going in straight. I added axial bearings, but I don't think they are neccesary. All that and I am on 40% of price of the cheapest press, that does not even have speific tokens, just a flat. 3D files here: https://www.printables.com/model/498142-headset-and-bottom-bracket-press

Shimano doesn't sell the tool to remove the proprietary 4 point jam nut on these brakes, and no one sells the tool. However, if you file out the 2 points between each of four on any typical 12mm box spanner wrench, you can make your own tool and take these apart. If your brake is seized up, the issue is due to the main bolt(s) bushings. They are made from a mild steel sleeve with a thin plastic liner that the bolt passes through. Use a knife to remove the plastic sleeve. The brake will still work fine without it. Grease the sleeve but not the thrust bearing. Also press out the assembly using the body of each arm. Do not pry or touch the outer thrust bearing area. The thrust bearing on the end does not do much at all. It has a bearing shield and basket built in. This is all integrated into what you see from the outside. If you pry on this, it will break. The thrust bearing has 2 steel hardened races that look like washers. The assembly should be cleaned but kept dry without lube. The bearings will easily fall out at the worst possible time so be aware and keep the assembly confined where the balls can't run far.

After modifying and initially servicing this brake, it has lasted almost 2 years and is still going. It needs cleaning and (re)service close to every chain lifetime. I have serviced it 6 times. It is beginning to need replacement, but that is 2 years of life extension for a hardcore daily roadie living in a salt water environment.

(First post here to get started. It is just a carry over resource image I had available)