outstanding little Regulated Anduril Light!
Album w more details: https://imgur.com/a/vXeGC1t
MAO D2 today.. Love the regulated output w no PWM
jon_slider
joined 2 years ago
Wurkkos TS10 MAO w sw45k mod is in my pocket. It is my favorite TS10.
picture album: https://imgur.com/a/KMuvsRP
in stock form I like to carry the Silver TS10 w 6000K leds.. review album here: https://imgur.com/a/H9Usict
these flowcharts are just fantastic!
thank you very much for sharing them
I have started using them, marked up with the specific changes I make to different anduril lights I own, like this one for my Aluminium TS10's:
https://i.imgur.com/YH8Eh5A.png
makes it really easy to keep track of changes I make to the factory defaults
I nominate this thread to be a sticky.. Thumbs Up!
thanks, fun video,
Im going to tell people that copper lights smell like mushrooms.. lol..
I’m ok with testing its limits
Im appreciating learning from your experience Thanks for sharing info
I respect that youre taking precautions. I think your idea to use water cooling could work well ;-)
I did not know at the time blinky modes were conflicting with thermal throttle.
Im glad you shared your experience, I also did not know the blinkies have no Thermal Regulation..
I may use it at full power again (while shooting), but turning it off between takes and cooling it in water.
ok, I hope that works out for you.. imo, the problem is that you are using too high an output, it obviously gets too hot when you use "full power".. Candle mode was intended to be used at very low outputs.. you are imho, misusing the candle mode for something that is not its intended purpose, and you are allowing the light to get too hot by not holding it in your hand.
but, if you insist.. I suggest you stand the light in a glass of water, so the host will be cooled during the excessively high output..
I used it continuously in candle mode @ high with the original silicone diffuser for a video shoot
now that you have learned it gets too hot and has no thermal regulation..
suggest next time you want to use candle mode, that you limit your use to level 6 of the 7 stepped modes.. and check with your hand after a couple of minutes, to confirm if that keeps the light cool enough
well-photographed
thanks..
the secret for me, has turned out to be to take photos during daylight hours (not in the dark).. it seems to help the iPhone camera (auto white balance), to produce useful beam color comparisons, for me.. Plus daylight shows what the host looks like.
the other thing that has turned out really handy as a background is my gray soldering mat.. (better than white paper).
example: https://i.imgur.com/HuON5ib.jpg
UV
here is a good video of a D2 w UV: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTk1XAh8EFU
and a good review of a D2: https://tgreviews.com/2023/04/26/emisar-d2/
the reviews have differing opinions on whether to choose the spot optic or the flood optic.. I went with the flood option and am very happy with it.. (it is Not Very Floody, it just makes the beam round instead of square)
my first hank light might be a D2 if I can settle on an emitter combo.
I recently bought my first Hank, a D2.. its a fun little light.. more details in this album: https://imgur.com/a/vXeGC1t
I also have a couple of TS10, and I really like them too. Here is an album w one of mine, modded to sw45k: https://imgur.com/a/KMuvsRP I will probably buy the Titanium model next.
congratulations looks very nice, thanks for the pics
Loving the color of this beam.. Just perfect for dark of night.
available for adoption
SC21 Pro is my favorite little anduril host
What might be a good strategy to remove the stock XP-G LED on the DQG Ti AAA driver? I want to install a 219b. Please see this album:
I’m debating options:
- hot air from the LED side, but not sure how to keep the components on the bottom of the board from falling off.. I do have some Kapton like tape, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W3FAFP0/ but it has almost no adhesive and does not stay in place.
Im wondering if “real” Kapton tape would stick better? Ive never tried it.
- Im debating using a soldering iron to heat the positive contact disc on the bottom of the driver, below the LED.. same concerns about components falling off. I expect the positive contact disc would be the first thing to get desoldered.
brainstorming and suggestions welcome..
view more: next ›
Beautiful work! thanks for the photos
fwiw, something like that could be good for pilots that want a Red Light in the cockpit, plus powerful enought white light to do exterior walk around inspections.