TyGamer

joined 1 year ago
[–] TyGamer 3 points 9 months ago

I scroll past the sponsored Google result links to get to the non-sponsored one that was "identical". I haven't intentionally clicked an ad in a while. Generally if I want to click an ad I just Google what I need to not need to. I use a pi-hole so generally I don't see them.

[–] TyGamer 11 points 11 months ago (3 children)

I mean two little hunks of plastic are most definitely cheaper than something big and sturdy in the middle as it needs to be over engineered to make up for the lack of physics being on its side. You can buy an aftermarket TV stand or wall mount it.

[–] TyGamer 4 points 1 year ago

If it closed slowly enough you could just measure resistance or voltage of the motor to determine if it's not moving. The problem is all the other things that you need to do before you can even close a door like shutting a fruit drawer.

[–] TyGamer 13 points 1 year ago (6 children)

It's a lot cheaper to install one sensor per door than it is to install a motor for every moving compartment and a sensor to see if it needs to be closed and that's just to make sure every door can be closed. A lot of extra circuitry for something they can just do on the cheap.

[–] TyGamer 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

How's the speakers on it? I'm supposed to get my 8 pro tomorrow but waiting on the shipping label still.

[–] TyGamer 3 points 1 year ago

There shouldn't be any loss of quality assuming the KVM (keyboard video mouse) or video switch supports the same standard as your other devices. For example if you buy a HDMI 2.0 switch and try to pass a HDMI 2.1 signal the switch would be the bottleneck and you would be limited to 4k60hz for example. A common issue with them is having handshake issues where the computer can't negotiate the signal between the monitor and the device. Generally the nicer ones will do a good job of this. Additionally another issue not really related the the switch but let's say you use HDMI for example will have higher signal degradation the longer the cable is so let's say you were to use 2x 15 foot passive cables with the switch in-between you might get signal dropout as the switch won't boost the signal. That is easily fixed by getting active cables or not using as long of cables or if your cables have poor shielding getting better ones.

[–] TyGamer 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I still have decently high power draw even after the update. 4k160+4k60 and I'm at 50w idle down from 70-80w. That's with hdr off since w10 doesn't handle it well. If I set both to 60hz I'm below 20w tho but that was the case even with 23.7.2.

29
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by TyGamer to c/syncforlemmy
 

This post has 22 images: https://lemmy.ml/post/3412121

Scenario (steps to reproduce)**

  1. Click link
  2. Intact with pictures

Result(s)

  1. Scrolling feels stuttery
  2. Clicking the later pictures then hitting back puts you in the comments and not where the picture was
  3. Scrolling back up has weird loading like it's hiding the last few pictures then they reload.
  4. Inability to scroll between them without going into the photo mode

Device information

Sync version: v23.08.12-23:05    
Sync flavor: googlePlay    

View type: Compact    

Device: t2q    
Model: samsung SM-G996U    
Android: 13
[–] TyGamer 4 points 1 year ago

There's a tool to export/import your settings but that's it. Can't remember where it is but it's somewhere on GitHub.

[–] TyGamer 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Only way I get normalish power numbers is when I set both my 4k displays to 60hz then I idle in the teens. That's when hdr off. When I was messing with custom resolutions I noticed that setting a lower bit rate did improve things so it's possible it has something to do with that. Hoping 23.8.1 helps when that comes.