CRI 95 SFT-40? Count me in! Thanks for the giveaway!
SammysHP
It's not on my list currently.
Because apparently every flashlight needs strobe. It's there since they were made with microcontrollers. Someone might find a purpose for it eventually. But it's fine as long as you don't have to cycle through strobe every time.
Thanks. In the D4v2, the aux led locators use the cpu idle mode pulldowns (idr the exact name) so they use very little battery power, but the brightness isn’t adjustable.
Yeah, the driver of the TS10 does it exactly the same. It's how Anduril works.
Do you know of a current measurement or runtime test for the aux leds on the TS10?
I've seen one on reddit a while ago, but can't find it right now. It's a little tricky to do because of the tube design.
It looks like this light has a tail clicky?
It has an electronic tail switch, just like the regular TS10.
Do you know what CPU it uses?
t1616, just like the regular TS10.
Where is the lanyard hole? I don’t see it in the photos, though I see an included lanyard mentioned.
It doesn't have a hole in the flashlight, just in the clip.
Too bad about the low CRI led. I’d prefer a floodier beam but that depends on the user.
Then get the regular TS10 that is available since 2022. Floody and high CRI.
Should there be any issue with using a USB-rechargeable 14500 in the TS10?
I use USB-C rechargeable batteries from Manker and Acebeam in all of my TS10.
Is it possible to leave the aux leds on with minimal battery drain as locator lights, like some Hanklights can?
Of course, at least in low brightness. The high level drains the battery in just a few days.
Just responding to the comment and it does not include affiliate links. 😉
It's available on Amazon for around $30 / 33€ during Black Friday. Use the code NVE875YS to get an extra discount!
Wurkkos HD01 UV on Amazon US
Wurkkos HD01 UV on Amazon DE
You can also get it directly from www.wurkkos.com.
🤣
Actually I do exactly this from time to time because it makes people laugh.
… alkaleak but fairly new …
Spot the mistake.
So I guess the circuit is blown
Unlikely. How could it blow just because the battery runs out of power? It's a long way from the negative terminal to the driver. The negative spring is probably corroded. Clean it and check continuity with the body with a multimeter.
What's the "clone of the FC11" you're talking about? Do you have a link?
The review has a whole section about it.