this post was submitted on 14 Jun 2023
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Climbing

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Got lead certified recently, but I pretty much drop a grade when climbing lead - I'm not as confident and I overgrip.

I've done lead falls, I know how to do 'em well, and yet... as someone who's done top rope for many years, it's scary not feeling the tension (however small) of a rope pulling your harness up.

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[–] florrked 2 points 2 years ago (1 children)

I’d add to this: think of the gym lead certification as just the start. As others have said, lead head is a thing and it’s perishable unfortunately. Some people have no issues, some (like myself) struggle with it and have to keep up with it or it goes away fast.

But in general, yeah, expect to do worse on lead. Most people are more cautious, hence over gripping, but also having to stop and clip. Takes that much more effort, and learning rest positions becomes all that much more important. It really does just take a lot of time.

[–] dystop 1 points 2 years ago

thanks! good to know it's not just me.