this post was submitted on 07 Jul 2023
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Bouldering

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I thought I should post this to help save some people some time and frustration when trying to find some shoes.

My street shoe size is 10 1/2 wide with my left foot being roughly half a size smaller and the middle of my foot is pretty high volume. My single biggest problem is always being able to use heel hooks as there is typically this gap of about a 1/4 to 1/2 ish inch gap at the bottom of the heel. I prefer some knuckling in my toes and size for my smaller foot.

I boulder pretty much exclusively, live in Colorado.

With that out of the way my new current daily driver is the Tenaya Indalo (8.5) the Tenaya Iati (8.5) was a very close second. The indalo is slightly wider overall. Other shoes I have tried that have felt like they would work were the Ocun Ozone HV (10) and Ocun Bullet (10). The Scarpa Instinct VSR (9.5) also felt very good but was sized half a size too small I think as I couldn't bend my foot at all.

I tried multiple different shoes and vendors recently and found most shoes too narrow in the midsole area to downsize enough. This includes Mad Rock, Red Chili, La Sportiva.

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[โ€“] DrGunjah 1 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

looks like we have similar foot shape. Iati was the first shoe I felt "at home", but man I hated that velcro, it was always a hassle to get in and out of the shoe and in the end it broke... after I resoled them. Not sure if they use the improved version now that was on the mundaka first, but even that is not as good as two/three simple velcros.

I've tried a few other then, but came go the conclusion that I either need a laces shoe or one with at least two velcros because otherwise there is too much dead space around the instep. La Sportiva Genius (laces) is great for wide feet if you like the no edge system. It would be a great "spare shoe" if it wasn't so damn expensive. Then I found the Scarpa Booster S (double velcro) which was nearly perfect but it's discontinued and the successor doesn't have the same shape anymore. All the other scarpa shoes either have weird shapes or only single velcro like the instinct series.

Finally I found the Ozone HV (blue) which is simply the best shoe I've ever had. Two simple velcros, wide shape, xs grip2, good heel and perfect toe patch. I will be so pissed if they ever discontinue them.

edit: nevermind, just noticed this post is over a year old ๐Ÿฅฒ