Hey guys! I've just recently gotten into collecting pocket knives, and I wanna make sure I'm taking proper care of them. My last two purchases have been karambits, both with fairly steep recurved blades, whose edges I'd like to be able to maintain.
I know that normal sharpening stones aren't going to allow me enough contact with the blade to actually put an edge on it, so I've picked up a Smith's DRET sharpener and have been practicing on an old dull knife with a stiletto blade, just to try to get some basics down. I'm getting better with it, but I'm struggling to get an even, consistent edge. Even without any special optics, I can see with my own eyes that I've got wildly uneven angles.
Granted, I'm practicing with a very low-quality knife that was already in pretty rough shape. I've managed to get the edge from "literally unable to break the skin with 20 pounds of pressure and aggressive sawing motions on my forearm" to "can cut through paper with about half of the blade before bunching up", though it's come at a cost of scratching the absolute hell out of the rest of the blade (which is just me being sloppy).
I figure that once I'm able to get competent enough with sharpening a normal blade shape that I'll move on to testing with a donor karambit. I picked up a super cheap, mall-ninja-ass karambit on Amazon because the reviews were all poor and said that the knife arrived completely dull, so I figured this would be perfect to practice sharpening. Unfortunately, it arrived with a surprisingly sharp edge, so I'm gonna have to abuse this knife for a bit before I can even practice anything on it.
Just curious what sort of tools y'all recommend for dealing with recurved blades, or any techniques I could try to incorporate into my practicing. Thanks!
Scratch patterns are in my experience a little overblown, particularly at high degrees of polish. The sharpener they linked you finishes on ceramic, which generally is fairly fine.
Pull through sharpeners’ biggest problem is that they can’t practically get a clean, consistent apex that follows the sweep of the edge. To get close the housing of the sharpening material needs to be extremely rigid, the pressure used needs to be consistent and light, the angle of the knife in the sharpener needs to be consistent from pull to pull, and the sharpening material needs to be very clean. Otherwise the act of sharpening, while perhaps polishing the bevel, drives the apex into steel residue or abrasive or shifts its angle. That will round, grind down, or rip tiny chunks out of the apex. Still gets a pretty sharp edge.
I don’t find pull throughs suffer much with regard to retention. They don’t get a knife as sharp initially, so they do start with a shorter clock. But from there retention is okay. They completely avoid wire edges, which is nice, so in inexperienced hands in a way they much improve retention.
For most knife steels and uses, pull through sharpeners are okay when used with a light hand. What I’m calling a “clean, consistent apex” isn’t practically necessary in pocket knives. The Sharpmaker and several cheap jigs can produce edges like that, though, and those edges definitely feel better in use. At the reasonable additional cost that’s worth it to a lot of people.