PC Master Race

I couldn't figure out how to message the mods (or even individual users) on my app. A space to discuss the survey and your post would be nice.

Edit: Got mod approval to keep this up

Maybe I am failing to understand the point here, but if the name gets changed, what would be the point if a new PC Master Race community can just get remade afterwards? The name of this community is really the only differentiating piece of identity that makes this community different from any other PC gaming community.

We, the moderators of PC Master Race, acknowledge there has been recent controversial posts shared in our Lemmy community that suggest the name of the community should be changed. The argument is that usage of “Master Race” can potentially be associated with the Nazi regime since “master race” is a specific reference to Aryan persons.

Due to message length limits in Lemmy, see the below replies which outlines the post-mortem discussion by the moderators of this community.

Topics:

1. What happened?
2. What is the current state?
3. What are we doing to address this?
4. What happens if the name of this community is changed?
5. Next Steps
6. Take the Survey

Notices:

• Survey link here: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSeLqKx4y49BnmsyuEdwZUCSOTg3rWCjqqfloxhoE59CF7TH6g/viewform
• This survey will close on August 20. We will create a new post summarizing the decision afterward.
• You can take the survey anonymously and without signing into a Google account.
• Due to the controversy around this topic, this Post will be locked.
• The moderators will share the results of this initial survey to the community after 30 days to allow sufficient time to collect feedback from the community.
• No new posts about the Name Change topic will be accepted. If you would like to discuss this further with the community, please use this older post: https://lemmy.world/post/1100953

Final Thoughts:

• Regardless of where you stand on the name "PC Master Race", at the end of the day we are all people. We are all connected by a hobby that we love: gaming on PC, or just being PC enthusiasts.
• We are a democratic community that encourages everyone to be respectful, have fun, and engage with each other.
• Be kind to others, even when they have an opinion that you disagree with.

If you have specific questions, please send a Private Message to the moderators which you can find in the sidebar. Thank you for your understanding.

Kind regards,

The Moderator Team

@[email protected] @[email protected] @[email protected] @[email protected] @[email protected] @[email protected] @[email protected] @[email protected] @[email protected] @[email protected]

G.Skill Ripjaws F5-6000J3040F16GX2-RS5W | G.Skill Ripjaws F5-6000J3038F16GX2-TZ5NR

I get that timings are different, but i'm curious about RS5W and TZ5NR. And if one of these is on the MBO compatibility list and the other is not would it work anyway?

I'm a content creator (playing PC games on my Ally). Currently I decided to look into capture cards that support VRR. So far I've come across the following options:

• Elgato HD60 XE

• Elgato Game Capture HD60 X < I'm unsure about its compatibility with high refresh rate gameplay since two articles contradict each other on this.

• EVGA XR1 Lite

• EVGA XR1 Pro

• AVerMedia Live Gamer Extreme 3 < It probably doesn't support higher framerates.

Which one from the above options would work best with ROG Ally in terms of features and connectivity?

If you have any other examples, feel free to share. I'm particularly interested in VRR and higher FPS pass-through for my gameplay. While recording at 60 FPS is fine or course (YouTube won't let me upload anything higher anyway).

Dealing with the USB-C connection might be problematic since Ally only has one USB-C port, which is used for both power and other functions. Most hubs usually have only one male USB-C port for connecting to your device, one USB-C port for power, and no additional USB-C ports. Unfortunately, I haven't found any hubs that would allow me to connect ROG Ally to a power supply while also connecting an additional USB-C device.

Hi there

I'm trying to cut down on the NVidia bloatware I've got installed. I found out through Google about an app called NVSlimmer which should do the trick. Unfortunately I'm not quite sure how to use it. When I run it I get a prompt to load the driver package but I'm not sure what that is.

I figured someone here might be able to help me understand what to do.

Thanks in advance.

Hi all,

It's been about 8 years since I've treated myself to some new monitors, so I'm a bit out the loop where to comes to what is currently available.

I'm a software developer, so 95% of the time will be spent developing with a small amount of time gaming.

I currently have a pair of Dell U2515H.

Specs I would love

Minimum QHD resolution, Single cable solution (power, display and data over single cable) Matte display Minimum 25"

Bonus

60Hz display VESA mount

Not sold on whether to go for duel screen again or ultrawide

Budget is fairly flexible preferably under £1000 for a pair though.

Looking forward to seeing what people recommend.

If this is the wrong community then my apologies I couldn't see a monitor community.

Edit,

Thank you all for your replies, I'm currently looking at the dell u3223qe which ticks a lot of the boxes, was also considering one if the lg ultrafine models, but the usb hub + KVM is really selling me on the dell.

So while I keep looking for a little longer to make sure I haven't missed anything, I think I'm going to end up with the dell (again)

Like I said in the title, my 3060 cannot go reach 70°C at all, even when I stress test the card many times without letting it cool down, the temperature just drops the instant it reaches 70. Is it thermal throttling? If it is then isn't 70°C a bit low for that?

I just put together my new build and i am idling at 60C. I am using a Ryzen 7 7700 paired with the Corsair H115I ELITE CapellIx XT. I have coolant temps of 30c and idle temps of 60C+. I should note, i am not using the tension CPU bracket that i thought this cooler came with(it doesn't) and instead i am using the 4 screw AM4 bracket. I only mention this because i am worried it may be a tension issue since i always see them install these with the tension bracket when looking on youtube.

A few months back with the help of the "other sites" PCMR, I built my son a PC. He doesn't like sitting at his desk though, and wants to turn it into a Lego diorama. We talked about moving his monitor elsewhere when his mom asked if it could hook up to the TV.

I was going to work on moving it tonight and testing it out but I was curious if there was anything special I needed to do first.

Its a Windows 10 PC, here are portions of the DXDIAG

Operating System: Windows 10 Home 64-bit (10.0, Build 19045) (19041.vb_release.191206-1406) Language: English (Regional Setting: English) System Manufacturer: Micro-Star International Co., Ltd. System Model: MS-7C95 BIOS: 2.C0 (type: UEFI) Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 6-Core Processor (12 CPUs), ~3.5GHz Memory: 32768MB RAM Available OS Memory: 32694MB RAM Page File: 15361MB used, 22197MB available

Card name: AMD Radeon RX 6750 XT Manufacturer: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. Chip type: AMD Radeon Graphics Processor (0x73DF)

I just want to make sure I don't need anything else for this to work right. With the big sales hitting tomorrow I am going to grab my son a wireless KB and Mouse, and anything else you all recommend.

Thank you for your time.

A year and a half ago, selling a video card on eBay was basically the same as paying someone to punch you in the face. It was as likely you'd get an INAD and eat the loss as anything else. So when I had one to sell, I sold it on FB Marketplace, and meeting in person for that much money didn't feel a lot less sketchy but at least it was in public and I could count the money.

Now, I want to replace a Nvidia card with an AMD one and that leaves me selling the Nvidia. It would be extremely convenient to sell it on eBay, but I'm looking for some perspective on whether the buyer protection scams have died down for video cards over there now that the shortage has passed, or if it's still basically a waste of time.

So, after many.....many years. I have decided to upgrade my PC. I am leaving NvidIa and going full team red for the first time. I was intel/Nvidia for years and then i switched to AMD processors for the build I am currently using but I think it's time to wave goodbye to team green.

Here is my current build from 2016/17:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4HzMGL

•CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1700 3 GHz 8-Core Processor ($215.00 @ Amazon)
•CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism 2800 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.66 @ Amazon)
•Motherboard: Asus STRIX B350-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($199.67 @ Walmart)
•Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($39.99 @ Amazon)
•Storage: Intel 545s 256 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($145.49 @ Amazon)
•Storage: Samsung 870 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Amazon)
•Video Card: MSI ARMOR OC GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB Video Card
•Case: NZXT S340 ATX Mid Tower Case
•Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GT 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
•Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow 59.1 CFM 120 mm Fan
•Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow 83.6 CFM 140 mm Fan
•Case Fan: NZXT Air Flow 83.6 CFM 140 mm Fan

and here is the new build:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wgwVqm

•CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($299.00 @ Amazon)
•CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($119.95 @ Amazon)
•Motherboard: MSI MAG B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($219.95 @ Amazon)
•Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL32 Memory ($104.99 @ Amazon)
•Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($54.99 @ Amazon)
•Video Card: XFX Speedster MERC 319 Radeon RX 6950 XT 16 GB Video Card ($579.99 @ B&H)
•Case: Corsair iCUE 4000D RGB AIRFLOW ATX Mid Tower Case ($120.99 @ Amazon)
•Power Supply: Corsair RM850x (2021) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($147.99 @ Amazon)
•Case Fan: Corsair iCUE AF120 RGB ELITE 65.57 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1752.84

What do y'all think about it?

Edit: Solved, thanks to Matthew and everyone else for helping me out. Leaving this up just in case someone needs to search it in the future. Thank you!

I'm so sorry if this isn't the right place for it, but I tried to search communities and couldn't find one specifically for questions like this.

I'm running an AMD Radeon 580 Series, if it helps

I'm not sure which details are relevant so I'm just going to explain the whole situation and hopefully it helps:

So a couple days ago I had a brownout of my power and my computer got shut off. My second monitor seemed to die at the same time, so I unplugged it and plan to get a new one.

Now, when I play games my computer is telling me my graphics card doesn't meet the minimum requirements.

I tried to open up the software for the graphics card but a box comes up saying: "The version of AMD Radeon Software you have launched is not compatible with your currently installed graphics driver. Please check your system for other versions of Radeon Software that may currently be installed. A factory reset of your Radeon software installation is recommended. More information about this problem can be found at: Link that doesn't work"

So I've looked at my drivers, updated them, did a whole tutorial on how to fix it involving ending process tress and %localappdata% but that didn't work. I tried to open the BIOS to try and figure it out but that didn't seem to give me any info.

And I can't find a way to factory reset my radeon software without the Radeon Software app. I've run compatibility troubleshooters, that did nothing.

And yes, I've turned my computer off and on many times in the process but nothing has worked. So please, if anyone can help me out I would really appreciate it. I just bought two new games on the Steam Summer Sale and I'd really like to be able to play them.

Thanks so much.

So, as the title says, I am going to build my first desktop pc this year and I need help choosing the right components for my budget, it's not a very strict budget but I would prefer to stay under 1400€. I've already read some info around the internet and would like to get an Intel Core i5-12600, An Nvidia RTX 3060 12gb VRAM, and 16 gb of DDR5 RAM. Is this a good combination or should I get different components? Will 16gb RAM be enough? And also, does the thing to mount the CPU cooler on the LGA1700 socket come together with the CPU cooler or do I have to buy it separately? For the CPU cooler I think I will get a thermalright peerless assassin 120 SE, since I heard it is a good cooler for the price. For the motherboard I was thinking a TUF B760-PLUS WIFI. For building the pc I already know someone who can do it for me. If you can recommend a case, preferably with steel or mesh side panel, I would appreciate it.

EDIT: A few days ago I bought a HP X34. It's a 3440x1440 ultrawide with 165Hz refresh rate. Obviously my setup can't hit constant 165fps in all games, but I'm comfortably getting 100+ in most games, 120+ in Forza Horizon 5 or Doom Eternal. Can't complain :)

I'm looking to buy a new monitor, making a switch from two 16:9 to a single 21:9. Everywhere I read the opinions are that on an ultra wide it doesn't make sense to go lower than 1440p, which I guess holds true for 34" monitors.

However, I'm worried my 3060 Ti won't be enough for that many pixels. Right now I'm enjoying uninterrupted framerates playing at 1920x1080.

How much should I really worry about making this switch? My other option is to go for a 2560x1080 monitor that's smaller (29").

Hello. I currently use an amd gpu. I've been offered an rtx 3060 at a really low price and I have the opportunity to test it for a few days, also.

I will use amd's cleanup utility for my card before installing the nvidia driver. If I don't keep the card, I will have to remove it (not installing GeForce experience, just the driver).

Now I don't wat to use ddu, so what will be the best way? Obviously I can uninstall it manually, but what if I make a restore point before using amd's utility? Will reverting to it undo all the changes safely?

Thanks for reading.

Edit: using windows 11

Earlier this week, I bought myself a new 2TB NVMe drive on sale, and had planned today to install it. Knowing that the computer, built in Dec 2021 had an issue with PCIe at the time that prevented 4x drives from running at 4x, but now had a BIOS update that fixed that (and introduced support for two additional CPU generations), I thought I should go ahead and flash the BIOS too.

Sparing unnecessary details, everything went fine. I unseated the 3060Ti to get at the M.2 ports, swapped out the old drive for the new one. Plugged in a spinner I had laying around while I was in there. Machine wouldn't boot - so I reinstalled GRUB (yes, I'm a Linux user) and that was fixed. The disk had everything copied over from the old one, so that was fine too, other than some power management spam in the journal that was fixed with a kernel param. Seems fine, right?

So I spin up Minecraft to have a quick session. Frame rates are like, 3-20 fps for about 2 full minutes, then they get up to 60fps (Vsync'd). But every few minutes, they keep dropping and creep back up. Sometimes they bounce up.

There are a dozen potential problems at least that could cause something like this. So I went back into the newly flashed BIOS knowing that all my settings were reset, and started poking around and fixing settings. This was good either way, but it didn't fix my sporadic fps dips. The game ALWAYS started at sub-10 fps, but it would get to 60 eventually. Sometimes in a handful of seconds, sometimes in minutes. One time, all the textures refused to load. Another time, the GPU fell off the bus.

This was not a problem at all prior to the work, so I started reviewing what I'd done so far. I'd added a disk with all copied data.. but there's a nvidia cache in there... cleared that. No dice. I looked at heat. No problem. Same drivers as before, but maybe I have to roll back drivers, or kernel, or BIOS. I dunno. Frustrated as fuck.

Could also be a power issue. Or a reseating the card issue. I hadn't added any devices with more power consumption and I have ~100W of buffer on a good PSU, so it really should be a problem, but I reseat the card and replug the power cables anyway.

The problem is worse.

So I spend another hour and a half poking around forums looking at every possible thing I could do on the software side to fix this, before I decide to reseat the card one more time. I mean, the first time changed SOMETHING, even if it was for the worse.

Popping out the card, I blew into the slot as I thought I saw a tiny speck of dust. I used canned air the first time but this was really an afterthought by this point...

The body of a tiny moth popped out of the slot.

I reseated the card, spun up Minecraft, and everything is fine. Perfect frame rates, just like before.

I'll never get the hours back that I spent troubleshooting this today. At least several other items were improved along the way, such as RAM timings. But in the event this story helps anyone in the future, it's worth the time it took to type it.

I had heard that framerate should be capped to 3 frames below the max of the monitor.

Do I then go and disable in game vsync, and manually enable Vertical Sync through Nvidia "Manage 3D settings" on a game by game basis? Is on the one I should use or fast for the Vsync setting through NVIDIA control panel?

Or should I just stick with in game vsync?

I currently have a Intel Core i7-6700 3.4 GHz Quad-Core Processor in my main build (built in 2016) and I'm ready for an upgrade.

Can someone recommend me a new cpu? I'd like something a little beefier and hopefully not have to get a new motherboard (GIGABYTE GA-B150M-DS3H LGA-1151 socket)

Hello !

I just recently purchased a 32” Lg 1440p 165hz monitor. Currently using an RTX 3060. Looking for the best budget upgrade to hit 144-165hz @1440p.

D4 is hitting between 100-120 on ultra with DLSS set to quality.

Is the 4060 a valid option or should I shoot for the 4070 ? Any other cards to consider ?

TIA !

I have a Ryzen 5 1600AF (Zen+) and 2x 8 GB DDR4 3600 HyperX. when I select XMP1, it says 1.35V in the profile. however, when I boot Strelec WinPE USB (I'm on Fedora, I really don't want to install windows just so I can run HWINFO), install all drivers and launch HWINFO64 it says 1.2V. so I enter BIOS again, go to Voltages and enter 1.35 manually instead of auto. no change, still reads 1.2V. the BIOS side screen shows 1.35 after reboot.

I've found an unresolved thread somewhere with the same problem for my board. I'm on latest BIOS.

am I missing something, is there some additional setting I need to switch so it registers? the BIOS setup is hella confusing and borderline stupid, e.g. enabling virtualization required turning on SMP (how am I supposed to guess what that is?!) that's located in the "Frequency" subsection (wtf?!).

I'm finally upgrading to a 1 TB SSD and i'm not sure what to do with the ol' HDD. some say they convert theirs into an external drive which sounds easy enough, but are there other potential projects?