PC Master Race

So, the time has come to upgrade my i7 4790k and GTX 760.

I'm looking at getting the following, but I'm stuck on what graphics card to get (this is something I am happy to replace in a couple of years, if I was to get something like the 4060)

PC specs that I have landed on.

• AMD 7800X3D
• 32gb of DDR5 6000Mhz CL36 rammy boys
• Gigabyte B650 ATX motherboard
• Noctua 140mm CPU cooler

I am carrying over the following from my old PC

• Case (Fractal Disign Pop)
• SSD storage
• EVGA 850w gold PSU

I am having difficulty picking a graphics card, I'm looking at the 4060, is there anything as good as from team Red that I could consider? I do plan on upgrading in a couple of years time.

Game overlay networks, game onion networks, game VPNs, they're all words for the same thing. Like mudfish http://mudfish.net

For people playing across the globe, you connect to their servers, and they give you a better global transit to the other side of the planet. For better latency for games.

Do people have recommendations for a game performance network they use? They've had good experiences with?

I've been playing with mud fish, and it's okay, I was just hoping people had some other recommendations.

Hi! I wanted to buy a budget gaming laptop at around ~800 USD (equivalent). Currently checking out a gigabyte 3060/11400@ 850$. Is this priced right? Shoukd I look for better deals? Also, what about gigabyte laptops, are they reliable? Should I buy it? What brands should I look for, if not?

Hey, quick question that I'm too dumb to know the answer to and can't seem to find any info about anywhere.

I just got a 2.5" HDD and put it in the dedicated place in my Fractal Meshify C case. It's on the side, and there really isn't enough space for it - the drive is too thick for the panel to come back on normally. When I put the panel back on the case it pushes right up against the drive and the panel clearly isn't flush with the case.

Is this an issue? Or will the drive be fine?

Hi, please consider redirecting people asking for build advice to the buildapc community to help us grow, thanks. https://lemmy.world/c/buildapc

A well balanced review I enjoyed reading!

Hello lemmy, I dropped a monitor and it hit the corner of the furniture. Luckily furniture survived with minor injuries.

Monitor is 24" 1080p used as 2nd screen in office (Dell P2417H)

Is this trash?

Edit: monitor hit hard from decent height. Im surprised there is no damage on case or plastic LCD cover (not sure is it called like that, I mean the glass like thing that protects the screen)

Someone's been waiting in the wings.

All the NUCs and other mini PCs I see run mobile processors.

It's a shame because a simple downdraft air cooler with a 120mm fan can handle a pretty high power load and could definitely fit in a tiny space.

Add a few thunderbolt ports and you could have a capable and upgradeable little pc.

It's time for me to build a new gaming computer. I'm looking to build something that will last me the next 5 years, my last 5 year build is at its end.

My planned build:

6000MT/s 64GB 32x2 gskill trident z5

PCIe 4.0 m.2 nvme 2TB mushkin vortex

Asus prime z670p

AMD Ryzen 9 7900x

Case, PSU, water cooling are just fun extras.

I use a lot of VMware, hence the memory. And I game a bunch, mostly EFT (tarkov) of late.

I like AMD, I've always had an AMD CPU, usually with Nvidia GFX.

I'm want to try AMD for graphics. I run 2k graphics, but I see myself getting a 4k 27inch freesync monitor in the future.

I'm looking at the 7900 xtx, it's just super pricey. It's about a year old, so it doesn't feel like a good decision.

I'm looking for a graphics card recommendation, I'd appreciate any other comments or suggestions for the rest of my build.

It's 140gb on PC and 100gb on Xbox, any idea why?

I just learned that there are programs to control the brightness of external monitors just like you can adjust your laptop's integrated display. On windows, the most well known one is monitorian (FOSS), on linux you can (on Gnome) even use shell-extensions to have a brightness slider just like you do for the integrated display.

I might be out of touch, but is this well known?

According to Bethesda Support, even the Intel Arc A770 GPU does not meet Starfield's PC minimum requirements.

Writing this up because I haven't seen a proper review.

Note I've only been using the case for about a day so I don't have a strong baseline on thermals; this is mostly about the build experience.

Why I was interested My preference towards cases is very old-school. I like external drive bays, and have no interest in tempered glass or RGB. My long-term daily driver was a Cooler Master HAF XB, which is a delight to build in and offers exceptional expandability for its size.

The one place it's sort of limited is depth for GPU-- I have an ASRock OC Formula 6900XT, and it's 330mm, and you have to remove front fans and carefully wiggle to get it out of a slot. This has resulted in me breaking the stupid clip on my mainboard.

So I had a $125 rebate voucher burning a hole in my pocket and a growing sense that most of the remaining cases with drive bays will be gone in another year or two, so I'd better get one now or it will be gone.

The obvious question Yes, the front panel can be opened over the intake fans. It's a seperate piece held in with like 8 snaps. The pictures on product pages look like CGI, so it's not clear if this is a decorative cut or an actual removable panel. It's sort of unfinished-- a big "B" moulded into it. You could probably cut some mesh or 3-D print something and attach it with magnets for easier removal.

Positives The case's aesthetics, as much as there are any (it's much plainer than old style plastic and metal cases tended to be) are defined by the "five-head" -- the big plastic shell that goes about 3cm above the top of the metal chassis itself. This actually does offer some nice features over the typical "stamped metal with a fan grille drilled in it" top panel: the top mesh element pops out on spring-loaded clips, and that gives you an extra degree of access to the internals from above. Obviously, the intent is to either mount fans there or leave the plastic sound deadeners in place, but this does help with the build.

The drive bays are deep enough for modern optical drives with a bit of clearance, so they aren't intruding into the mainboard area. Both four-bay 3.5" cages can be removed.

The captive screws and pressure springs to retain optical drives work well, but why only two sets of captive screws when there are three bays?

Negatives There are numerous cable management holes, but they tend to be on the small size. My PSU (old Corsair RM1000x) has thick and inflexible cables because there are capacitors built into the cables, and the main ATX cable barely fit through the hole. I was able to get a fairly clean build with some effort though. (By detaching the ATX cable from the PSU and feeding it in that way, you avoid trying to cram the thickest part through the small hole.

Only six standoffs are pre-installed. Three extra are included in the box (I'd prefer four, since many mainboards have 10 mounting holes and you can be pathological). When I went to install the other three, they were not smoothly pre-tapped; a small "nut driver" adapter is provided to mount them properly, but this was frustrating, and since I didn't notice the "nut driver" at first, I ended up fighting with a real nut driver that was too small to provide sufficient torque.

It includes a GPU support, which is cleverly designed-- you can slot it into a rail, screw it down tight, and set an arm to prop the card up. Unfortunately, it was not suitable for the OC Formula 6900XT, a tall, 2.5 slot monstrosity-- you could only barely bolt it in at the edge of the rail, and the arm ends up in a poor position to engage the card-- it's simply too short and would end up having to poke directly into a fan. I ended up using the supplementary bracket ASRock provided with the card.

Neutral The top and front plastic panels are held on with pressure-fit clips, you can pull them off manually. This makes it slightly precarious if you grab the top of the case the wrong way.

It comes with three stock fans which are reasonably quiet, but I hear a mold hum with the case at ear-height. It's probably less noticable when the case is placed on the floor-- with no tempered glass, it's probably safer to kick.

The fans are wired to a rudimentary fanbus (off-low-high), which has extra headers, but are only 3-pin models. I may end up replacing them with my old Arctic P12s and bypass the fanbus so I can get monitoring through the mainboard.

Overall, I found you might not be able to use the most obvious cable routing for some cables, i. e. the front panel USB and audio, due to length and routing needs. This is obviously dependent on the choice of mainboard. I also ended up cracking out my extra-long SATA cables; your routing may be easier, but I had problems with the onboard SATA and optical drives, so I use a M.2 to SATA card to get some ports that work reliably.

The aesthetic is a little weird due to the "five-head" design. While it's very subdued and plain in many ways, the idea that drive bays start a random-looking 5cm from the top of the case resonates strangely with me; it seems like if asked an AI to draw a full tower case. I suspect that it might be possible to coopt some of that space for something more useful, like a card reader, but I'm trying to avoid breaking out the Dremel just yet. The printed-on "Silent Titan" logo is odd; I already bought the case, you don't need to remind me what it is.

Overall The case is serviceable and delivers on most of the important things I was looking for (screaming "IT HAS DRIVE BAYS" in that classic girl "IT HAS POCKETS" style). I suspect many of my issues with the build were due to corner-case compatibility issues.

Lately we've been talking about games not performing well enough on current hardware. It's had me wondering just what we should be asking for. I think the basic principle is that components from the last 5 years should be adequate to play current-generation titles at 1080p60. Not at max settings, of course, but certainly playable without resorting to DLSS and FSR.

It makes me wonder: is it really so much to ask? There are games from 10+ years ago that still look great or at least acceptable. Should we expect new games like Starfield to be configurable to be as demanding as an older game like Portal 2 or CS:GO. If the gameplay is what really matters, and games of the 2010s looked good then, why can't we expect current games to be configurable that low?

From what I've seen, users of the GTX 1070 need to play Starfield at 720p with FSR to get 60fps. What's better? Getting 60fps by playing at 720p with FSR, or playing at 1080p with reduced texture resolution and model detail?

It shouldn't even be that hard to pull off. It should be possible to automatically create lower detail models and textures, and other details can just be turned off.

lol. has anyone found ways to optimize starfield for their pc, like reducing stuttering, FPS drops, etc?

It's coming soon.

I’ve had an NZXT BLD computer for 2 years now and I started noticing my case lights are going bland. I have LEDs on my ram and motherboard and they look correct.

I have tried going through each color in turn in CAM and the blues are a tad dark.

A quick web search seems to indicate my cooler might be going bad but that doesn’t make sense because ALL of the NZXT lights are doing this. I think it might be the case controller. Does this make sense?

I have tried removing other RGB apps to see if anything was interfering but no change was observed.

I designed 3D printed components to mount my ITX + 3080 + SFX to an IKEA Skadis pegboard, so it can be wall-mounted behind my TV.

3D printing details here: https://www.printables.com/model/571343-pc-mounting-kit-for-ikea-skadis-with-t-nuts

($99.99) NZXT Phantom 410 Series Red Steel

($259.99) MSI Gaming N760 TF 2GD5/OC GeForce GTX 760 2GB 256

($239.99) Intel Core i5-4670K Haswell 3.4GHz

($139.99) MSI Z87-G45 Gaming LGA 1150 Intel Z87

($89.99) OCZ Fatal1ty 750W Modular Gaming 80Plus Bronze

($88.99) SAMSUNG 840 EVO MZ-7TE120BW 2.5" 120GB SATA III TL

($84.99) G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3

($57.99) CORSAIR Hydro Series H55 Quiet Edition

($19.99) ASUS 24X DVD Burner

Trying to figure out why plugging in an HDMI cable to my video cards turns off HDR in Windows 22 and won't let me turn it back on. Or rather does, then after a second turns it right back off on its own.

I could swear I did this in the past.

Hi, I am looking to buy a new laptop for both gaming and productivity loads.

Which brands are generally reliable for laptop? Say for a 1000$?