ErgoMechKeyboards

Hi,

Sometime ago on reddit ergomech I saw a post about blank inserts to fill in the gap after a key switch had been removed. I have access to a 3D printer now and cannot find anything anywhere about this post. I was wondering if someone knew where I could find the file I need. It was a gird of inserts. I pulled a few keys from my ergodox and they keep filing with dust, not the end of the world but now I can do something about it, other than sticky tape and cardboard :)

Thanks

Wrapped up my documentation on this unusual mashup! https://flatfootfox.com/typeboy-keyboard-typepak-cartridge/

I managed to fit a XIAO BLE, Sharp Memory Display, shift register, and LiPo battery inside of a Game Boy Advance cartridge. The "TypePak" is mostly just for aesthetics, but it will make swapping microcontrollers more straightforward if I use it on future builds. The keyboard itself is pretty strait-laced 58 key split ergo outside of its GBA-compatible cartridge slot. I did some experimenting swapping out volume rotary encoders for thumb switches to try and keep the Game Boy vibes going. Everything's topped off with a few FK Custom keycaps.

https://github.com/climent/atreyu

My first wireless build. Just a quick 3d printed plate and encoder knob.

Drift Keyboard A 68-Key Split Keyboard by Timception (me) Doys Keycaps Durock EV-01 switches After using a Corne I decided to make a split that has the missing keys that I find hard to not have. Hope u all enjoy :)

Hi all,

TL/DR: Ergo Split 36-key with per-key RGB and 2x 2 inch TFT screens, run by 2x BlackPill. Can QMK handle this?

I'm hoping someone can sanity check this for me before I go printing a PCB only to find there is no software capable of doing what I want without major code involvement.

My plan is for a split ergo keyboard with 36 keys (6 rows of 3 per hand, including the thumb cluster). Each key would have an SK6812-MINI-E RGB backlight, and would be run off a BlackPill controller in both sides. I was going to make the connection using a CAT6 patch cable, understanding I don't need all 8 of the cables, but also that a patch cable clicks into place so a reduced chance of shorting anything by disconnecting the sides while still powered.

The gotcha is that I want to run 2x 2" OLED displays, one on each side. Specifically, they are the ST7789V GMT020-02 from Shenzhen GoldenMorning Electronic Co.,Ltd via AliExpress. I know that QMK has Quantum Painter LVGL Integration, and this should support a display. But can I run two independently of one another, one driven off the first BlackPill and the other off the second?

Feedback would be greatly appreciated on this! I have all of the hardware, other than the PCB and case. Before I spend too much time designing the PCB, I want to at least hear that it should be possible, as opposed to hearing that for a variety of reasons it's an absolute non-starter.

I bought it on etsy.com after last Christmas and right now I fill very comfortable. First several months I played with configuration and different layouts and learn blind typing as well. My final config could be found here. The base layout is Colemak-dh, second one is for numbers and arrows. Third one is for special characters and final layout for mouse movements. It is vial compatible and I use macros, combos and tap dancing intensively. Also I use modifiers as holding keys, but above home row, as it speed up my taping and I produce less errors.

Hello everyone, I recently bought a piantor keyboard and I am having trouble with qmk. I have configured two layer keys(num, nav) each of them switches to different layer and I want to be able to hold both of them to access fourth layer(CzechLayer), but I can't seem to figure out how to do it. Here is my keymap.c file:

#include QMK_KEYBOARD_H
#include "keymap_czech.h"

enum layers {
    DefaultLayer,
    NumLayer,
    NavLayer,
    CzechLayer,
};

const uint16_t PROGMEM keymaps[][MATRIX_ROWS][MATRIX_COLS] = {
    [DefaultLayer] = LAYOUT_split_3x6_3(
        KC_PIPE, KC_Q,         KC_W,         KC_E,         KC_R,         KC_T,          KC_Y,    KC_U,         KC_I,         KC_O,         KC_P,            KC_PPLS,
        KC_ESC,  GUI_T(KC_A),  ALT_T(KC_S),  CTL_T(KC_D),  LSFT_T(KC_F), KC_G,          KC_H,    RSFT_T(KC_J), CTL_T(KC_K),  ALT_T(KC_L),  GUI_T(KC_SCLN),  KC_PEQL,
        KC_UNDS, KC_Z,         KC_X,         KC_C,         KC_V,         KC_B,          KC_N,    KC_M,         KC_COMM,      KC_DOT,       KC_SLSH,         KC_PMNS,

                                             MO(NumLayer), KC_TAB, KC_SPC,                  KC_BSPC,  KC_ENT,  MO(NavLayer)
    ),

    [NumLayer] = LAYOUT_split_3x6_3(
        KC_QUOT, KC_1,         KC_2,         KC_3,         KC_4,         KC_5,          KC_6,    KC_7,         KC_8,         KC_9,         KC_0,            KC_PPLS,
        KC_ESC,  KC_EXLM,      KC_AT,        KC_HASH,      KC_DLR,       KC_PERC,       KC_CIRC, KC_AMPR,      KC_ASTR,      KC_BSLS,      KC_COLN,         KC_PEQL,
        KC_DQUO, KC_TILD,      KC_LABK,      KC_LCBR,      KC_LBRC,      KC_LPRN,       KC_RPRN, KC_RBRC,      KC_RCBR,      KC_RABK,      KC_QUES,         KC_PMNS,

                                             MO(NumLayer), KC_TAB, KC_SPC,                  KC_BSPC,  KC_ENT,  MO(NavLayer)
    ),

    [NavLayer] = LAYOUT_split_3x6_3(
        KC_BRIU, KC_F1,         KC_F2,        KC_F3,        KC_F4,        KC_F5,        KC_F6,   KC_F7,        KC_F8,        KC_F9,        KC_F10,          KC_VOLU,
        KC_ESC,  KC_F11,       _______,      _______,      _______,      _______,       KC_LEFT, KC_DOWN,      KC_UP,        KC_RIGHT,     KC_F12,          KC_MUTE,
        KC_BRID, _______,      _______,      _______,      _______,      QK_BOOT,       QK_MAKE, _______,      _______,      _______,      _______,         KC_VOLD,

                                             MO(NumLayer), KC_TAB, KC_SPC,                  KC_BSPC,  KC_ENT,  MO(NavLayer)
    ),

    [CzechLayer] = LAYOUT_split_3x6_3(
        KC_PIPE, _______,      CZ_EACU,      CZ_ECAR,      CZ_RCAR,      KC_T,          CZ_YACU, KC_U,         CZ_IACU,      KC_O,         _______,         KC_PMNS,
        KC_ESC,  CZ_AACU,      CZ_SCAR,      KC_D,         _______,      _______,       _______, _______,      _______,      _______,      KC_SCLN,         KC_PEQL,
        KC_UNDS, CZ_ZCAR,      _______,      CZ_CCAR,      _______,      _______,       KC_N,    _______,      KC_COMM,      KC_DOT,       KC_SLSH,         KC_PPLS,

                                             MO(NumLayer), KC_TAB, KC_SPC,                  KC_BSPC,  KC_ENT,  MO(NavLayer)
    ),
};

I'm typing this with my new ergo keeb right now. Holy fuck it is hard. I cannot seem to be able to hack my brain, I've spent 2 WEEKS desperately trying to learn the first SIX MOST FUCKIN COMMON LETTERS and I'm still completely unable to use them even remotely quickly or reliably. I am completely unable to even break the 70% confidence line on keybr on I,E,S and R despite hours of efforts. Worse, now my accuracy goes steadily down the toilet even if I slow down to a grind in an attempt to improve it.

I fuckin suck at this. It is despair and rage inducing. How the fuck do you manage to even learn new layouts?

I spent almost an hour typing this fuckin message.

But hey at least my keyboard looks awesome.

Edit: it seems using keybr is actually damaging my progress instead of helping. I'm switching to another tool.

Edit2: after a few days on monkeytype I'm up to 17 WPM and 91% accuracy in french, up from 4 WPM and almost negative accuracy. Not great BUT it's still a big win for me. I mostly know my layout now, except for the dev layer. I can only progress from now.

This is the story of my involvement with ergo-mech keyboards, describing how I set up my first split ergo, the Keebio FoldKB.

Hopefully this will be the first of a series.

Hey everyone,

My weekly collection of cool DIY keyboard projects is out! Plus some original content like interviews with Morgan (Svalboard) and Gleb (Deathpad), the Ergohaven Planeta review, etc.:

https://kbd.news/

And here is my latest editorial write-up with even more goodies:

https://kbd.news/Behind-the-scenes-2023-34-2100.html

We've got some new fun colors for our resin case prints and builds at Wylderbuilds.

A deep and mysterious translucent red:

and a bright and happy mint green!

They print beautifully, as you can see.

You can now find examples of all our available resin colors here: https://wylderbuilds.com/colors-resin

Our Back-To-School sale is still happening, folks! From now until the end of August, you can get 10% off all orders over $50 with code ERGONOMICS-101 at checkout!

Come pick snag an itsy 3x5 Manuform or go whole hog with one of our massive 6x7 Polydactyl Rex models!

Full Builds https://wylderbuilds.com/shop/p/dactyl-manuform-build

Resin Case Prints https://wylderbuilds.com/shop/p/dactyl-manuform-resin-print

Cheers!

Andy @ Wylderbuilds

The two are pretty similar, but to me red pro is just about the point where I can hold the key without thinking about it, which is a good trait for modifier keys.

Originally I used numpad as a navigation block, but I've since figured out that setting right thumb row to [MO(2)←→↑↓] / [▿Home End PageUp PageDown] works well for my purposes, so now it's just chillin'.

Assembled (complete with the pleasantly smooth photopolymer SLA case) by a local company (splitted_space on Telegram), originally with brown switches.

I've posted a couple times about Cut Slope, but one last post to announce that I've released the source code today.

I've got a couple of the prototypes left if you're interested in getting one without getting a whole order fabbed.

The pcb is an edit of MangoIV's le_chiff_ble drop-in replacement courtesy of dreipunkteinsvier (unpublished as of now).

[Edit: It's obviously running ZMK firmware. Edit2: Tried fixing images by reuploading... ]

Case is Bubbleology's fantastic 3dp design (closed source).

Alphas are MT3 (2048 Katakana), thumbs 3dp DES by Pseudoku (mjf print from jlc).

I really enjoy the board, but the thumbs are waaaay too tucky for me 😅 I basically can't reach the 1.25u ones without significant discomfort / moving my entire hand. Good thing it's got a few too many keys for my taste so i can just ignore those thumbs :D

Peek inside:

I played around with a Huntsman Mini a bit in my local Micro Center and loved how smooth the linear optical reds felt. They had just the right amount of resistance too. The choc reds I'm using in my sofle right now feel too heavy and cumbersome to me at 50g. I want a switch that feels smoother and is slightly easier to depress. Got myself a switch tester from aliexpress but I'm still having a hard time deciding. The only two switches that I don't have in my tester are the Purpz and the Sunsets. Not really interested in tactile though and I'm pretty sure the Purpz would be too light for my liking.

On paper I'd think the silvers would be fairly close but in reality, it doesn't feel that much lighter than the reds, even though it's 10g lighter. Plus, I know the tester can only get me so far and that a whole board of switches is going to feel vastly different than a single switch. Thoughts, advice? Thanks!

Check out the blogpost here: https://tarneo.fr/posts/split_keyboard/

A simple little travel case for the piantor inspired by the following post from compression keyboards. Printables as different sizes for those with tall keycaps.

Mind the gap.

(I had to cut here to make the usb connector fit. It's been adjusted correctly in the final revision)

Gallery, https://imgur.com/a/FQHuL9l

I’ve been working on a design for a split keyboard that is a hybrid between a Corne and a Sofle.

So fair the electrical and software aspects work, I still need to sort out the chassis.

Some features:

• Efficient backlight circuit (at 100% it uses 20mA)
• Custom MBK Choc caps from fkcaps.com (the glow is awesome)
• ~250mAh battery (still low profile as there’s a hole in the PCB for the battery)
• Dual EVQ encoders
• Fully wireless using Nice Nanos
• The layout has MacOS and Windows modes
• Choc spacing

Once I’ve got the chassis done and I’ve cleaned everything up a bit I’ll open source it.

Here’s a preview of the chassis design so far:

So, after some playing around trying to figure out a preferred physical layout, I decided a Hillside 46 splayed keyboard would be about right. Thanks to Leo at Beekeeb for answering all my questions before ordering and during the build! Surface mount soldering was tricky, but everything works on the first try! I finally can use Dvorak with keycaps in the right place. Keymapping is a work in progress as I am getting used to this, and I am still trying to figure out how to get my Unicode characters to display in Linux (though for the Mac they show up fine). Now for lots of practice to build up new muscle memory, and develop a lighter touch so I don't keep inputting command characters unintentionally.

Based on this video which reviewed a bunch of different ergonomic mechanical keyboards I kinda have my eyes set on the Glove80.

However my main gripe with looking at it, is that it only offers soldered switches (either pre-soldered or DIY).

This combined with the fact that there are no Cherry MX Speed like switches available for it (I have grown very accustomed to them on my Corsair K95 RGB Platinum) makes me question whether I'm willing to risk the near 400€ investment just to potentially end up with a keyboard whose switches are not too my liking.

And while I could probably resolder different switches onto it, I'd rather have a keyboard where changing switches doesn't require me grabbing my soldering iron.

Looking around so far however, I haven't found a keyboard similar in design to the Glove80 that does feature hot-swappable switches.

As such any recommendations would be welcome <3

Another happy Svalboard user is crushing it on day 1! I'm really amazed at how quickly most folks are adapting, users of split ergo boards seem to be getting the hang in a week or so, and transitioning to full-time use after 2-3 weeks!

Took me way longer twenty years ago on Datahand, but I had atrocious touch-typing form ;P

Context: Svalboard is my evolution of Datahand and lalboard into a production device. I build them myself here in Pacifica, CA.

It surrounds the fingers with magnetically actuated keys in 5 directions, with total anatomical customizability through novel fitment mechanisms that can suit any hand size and finger anatomy.

20g force is standard, and the profile is insanely tactile/clicky, with instant actuation and very fast breakaway of forces (1/x^2).

It runs QMK-Vial, and is totally modular. Replacement parts can be printed on a Prusa MK3S or equivalent.

Lots more detail at https://www.svalboard.com

Come join the Discord, it's pretty lively and I post lots of the day-to-day design and fabrication experiments as I evolve things! :D

https://discord.gg/DnGcHM4Rg8

Hey everyone, it's been a long time since my last post here. Nevertheless, I'm still collecting awesome DIY keyboard projects at:

https://kbd.news/

And here is my latest weekly summary and editorial write-up with even more goodies:

https://kbd.news/Behind-the-scenes-2023-33-2088.html

Feel free to ping me about your projects.

No need to bend the legs, no need to do wire stripping. I did this in 30 minutes casually... I guess the full halve will take around 1 hour

I tried to distill my favorite features of weteor's magnificent Kong for this layout. I loved the thumb cluster but wanted a split 36 key layout. Designed for a pair of socketed purple Pi Picos I had from a previous build. Built with Outemu Cream Yellows.