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Questions about ballasts (self.diy_electronics)

submitted 2 months ago by sneekee_snek_17 to c/[email protected]

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I'm using an instructable as reference for a project and it says to use anything available that draws 5-10A as a ballast. Examples were a hair dryer, I thin toaster, and also an incandescent bulb as a test article.

I don't quite understand include any of those things in the circuit. Is it as simple as ripping the guts or if a hair dryer to get to the heating element and writing it in with the exposed leads?

Any general information on ballasts that aren't for florescent lighting would be very helpful

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[–] sneekee_snek_17 2 points 2 months ago (5 children)

Its purpose is current-limiting

https://www.instructables.com/Simplest-POWERFUL-Solid-State-Tesla-Coil-SSTC/

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) (4 children)

I see, the instructable suggests using an incandescent (specifically not flouro) globe wired in series with a full bridge rectifier to convert to DC. This would limit the current but is a bit ghetto and the light/heat produced is wasted energy. However a lighting ballast may not be useable as tesla coils are generally dependent on frequency. A globe or element would increase resistance as it warms as they have positive temperature coefficients. So in this case I would say wire a standard globe in series on the active side going into a rectifying diode or full bridge rectifier to convert to DC power. wire mains active to globe socket then globe neutral into diode into your circuit then circuit negative to mains neutral. Hope this helps, best of luck (stay safe) Note: I'm Australian and not overly familiar with your 110v residential wiring, caution advised

[–] sneekee_snek_17 2 points 2 months ago (1 children)

I just had a thought, if I've got a laptop charger or similar brick that supplies 5A DC, do you think there's any reason that wouldn't work?

[–] [email protected] 1 points 2 months ago

I can think of three potential issues with a charging brick; The increase of resistance as a light or element warms up may actually be desirable as it would allow a higher start up current before providing stable DC Secondly, a charging brick would drop the voltage down to 12/24ish Thirdly, you won't be able to wire it in series as you can't share a DC negative / mains neutral on the return path if there's transformer or different voltages

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