ErgoMechKeyboards

This time it's a minimal build, a 3x6 Dactyl Manuform with dual encoders on the right pinky column.

This build is printed in a shimmer black PLA that always comes out remarkably well. The silver trackball on the right does the pointing thing and the gold on the left navigates content via drag scroll. It's a terrific little Miryoku-ready keyboard with the latest QMK firmware and full Vial support.

Sizes range from 3x5 to 6x7 with cases printed in resin or PLA. All builds are fully hot-swappable, run on QMK, KMK, or ZMK, and now use USB-C for all connections (except wireless models.)

Other options include:

• Bluetooth Wirless support.
• Trackballs (one or two).
• OLED screens.
• Rotary encoders (wheel encoders now supported!)
• RGB Underglow
• A selection of Kailh switches.

Pick up a build today!

https://wylderbuilds.com/shop/p/dactyl-manuform-build

We're having a WHATEVER SALE! Like most of you out there, it's that special time of year to celebrate... Whatever. I dunno. We're having a sale. Swing on by.

From now to October 15th, get 10% off any order of $100 or more at Wylderbuilds with checkout code YEAH_WHATEVER_MAN.

Speaking of Miryoku... These are coming along fabulously.

Soon now.

Cheers, and keep typing like a God!

Andy @ Wylderbuilds

I've bought the idea of getting an ergo keyboard for work, but it's too expensive to buy one from where I live, so the last days I've been learning and designing my own.

I know it won't be as good as a manufactured one but I really want to see how the result will be

i wanna build a wireless corne with a nice big battery so it doesnt need to charge alot but i do not know what i need i can get a aurora corne kit from splitkb bit i will need a case does someone know one that has enough space for a big battery and prefferably a wristrest any suggestions are welkom

I have read about some guides and in the progress doing the dactyl manuform, and I have seen that many people used some tape called "kapton tape" or used some shells pulled out from the wire to seperate the columns and rows of the matrix.

I want to know that is it safe to use the electrical tape for this purpose because I have read some comments said that the electrical tape will melt and cause everything around it sticky.

Come check out this open-source(soon) keyboard here https://www.rgbkb.net/products/mun-2-gb

Hey all! I'm excited to share and announce my open-source keyboard firmware project. FAK exclusively supports very cheap CH55x chips. You can get a CH552 for half a dollar or maybe even cheaper. No need for external flash, LDOs, or oscillators. The chip's basically a whole MCU on its own.

So far it has layers, hold-tap, and tap-dance. Split support, combos, macros, etc. and more to come. It's based on Nickel, a purely (almost) functional programming language, so FP folk can go crazy on their config and parameterize everything or whatever. But hey, you only need that kind of power if you want it. For beginners, you can start simple and it looks almost like JSON.

Home-row mods are a first-class citizen with very customizable hold-tap behaviors. There's global quick tap from ZMK. There's hold-tap flavors too, but settable per key per behavior. There's eager decision, quick tap, and more.

I've also been experimenting with other matrix scanning methods like the Cheapino's (forgot the name) and round-robin/charlieplexing. This means less pins required, so you can get away with a CH552T (instead of a CH558L with more pins, twice the price) and keep your build very cheap.

Please check it out! If you have CH552 chips around, I'd appreciate your feedback. I've yet to write better docs and a website, but feel free to DM me and I'd be happy to help you get it running!

Now I have to patiently wait for them to ship. I'm not shy about the Sweep inspiration.

The goal is to have it be modular, with a central controller board. I'm going to eventually use these with paracord cables to hot-plug different types of keyboards (the first will most likely be a gaming keyboard on the left). I'm looking for less bulky magnetic connectors if anyone knows a source. Definitely not considering a TRRS, as I don't think my GPIOs should be mainlining 5V during hotplugging.

The controller is still being prototyped on a breadboard. I have already experienced the woes of hot-plugging I2C on the prototype boards (stuck bus and all), so I'm going to experiment with the TCA4307.

The firmware is being developed in Rust, though haven't pushed it anywhere yet.

https://codeberg.org/jcdickinson/octoboard

Hello all:

I am in need of some advice. I am a consultant for a living and spend my days writing reports. When I am at home, I am using an Advantage 360 Pro which I absolutely love; when I travel to meet with clients though, I use my corporate Mac... which has less than stellar ergonomics.

The 360 is too big and bulky for me to travel with (I know some do), but I use forearm crutches and need to carry everything in a backpack. Weight and overall size are an important consideration.

I was looking at the Glove80, and the Corne-ish Zen but then I saw the new ZSA Voyager...

I also thought about something like a Skeletyl, huge fan of the Dactyls - and the work over at BastardKB; I love minimalist layouts but I also live in Canada; the 360 with exchange and duty when I ordered in on Drop cost me ~$750CDN.

I wish keyboards were more affordable but hey...

Thoughts?

I’m planning on soldering my next KB, do you guys have any tips on soldering irons, solder materials, etc, to make it go smoothly? I’ve only soldered bulky stuff so I have a soldering iron appropriate for a gorilla.

I've only seen solid-color keycaps for Chocs, and I'd love to get some cute ones like there are for Cherry MX switches. I'm thinking of sets like Bubble, Castle Idol, Honey Milk, and Witch Girl. Do sets like these exist for Choc switches?

How I set up my keyboard for unparalleled ergonomics and portability

Thought I might ask here, sorry if I'm in the wrong place. But I just learned about Wooting's rapid trigger (https://wooting.io/wooting-two-he), that deactivates the switch when it changes direction instead of when it reaches the reset 'breaking point'.

My thought was if this would be able to be controlled on a regular MX switch and if such a program already exists? Since I'd prefer not to buy a Wooting keyboard and run their software. Seems like Razer has copied Wooting in their latest software (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c64yGHLO-TU&t=10s), but I'd prefer not to buy Razer products either. So looking for an open source program to control the trigger behaviour of the keyboard.

Hope my question is clear, thanks:)

Quentin Lebastard of Bastard Keyboards, designer of the Charybdis and Dilemma, talks about himself and his designs on the occasion of the upcoming release of the Dilemma Max.

No connection. I neither own nor have any particular interest in owning a Bastard keyboard, though I can admire them, but I thought the interview and behind the scenes peeks into a hobby-turned-business were interesting.

I created a 2d surface that I can perform a linear extrusion on, however the result it obviously a hard edge on the extrusion. I would love to be able to add a bezel - either rounded or at 45 degrees. Is there an easy way?

I'm having trouble figuring out what's wrong with my files for compiling. the initial errors are pointing to the .h and corresponding part in the keymap.c files but it seems fine to me? i haven't even managed to get to figuring out the joystick part which is where i thought i would start having a bunch of trouble

Unsure the best way to show files but I don't think copy pasting them into the body of this post would be best so I've uploaded here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1WKobV73ZdovPCUUcp0jLBLaX8L6IFEmp?usp=drive_link

The txt file shows the error text I get when trying to compile

Thank you

I love the Voyager so far. 💜

I wanted to experiment with a better pinky column, as for me using the bottom row with the pinky felt awkward and sometimes painful. Thus I created an alt version of my arkenswoop (swoop based), and named it the altenswoop because my brain thinks it is very original and funny. It will take some getting used to, and I'll need to get batteries for this prototype too!

Is there a proper name for this kind of pinky formation? I've seen this elsewhere too, and I'm calling it pinky cluster in reference to the thumb cluster but it doesn't feel right

Edit: I forgot to add a link to the PCB files: https://github.com/SuperFola/arkenswoop (under pcbs/3x5_nw_pinky_cluster)

follow up to https://lemmy.world/post/4860453

As promised in the comments last time, here's the update with the new case :) Hope y'all like it!

Keyboard: BRK OUT by weteor
Caps: Vintage Triumph Adler
Case: Light Ivory 3dp, brushed metal inlay

More pics:

Hello adn welcome to my plea for help! I've been PC gaming for a very long time, and in the beginning I used a split dome keyboard, it was fine for what it was. I switched back to standard keyboards though and have been using them for years. I've been a fan of corsair mechanical keyboards for the last 15 years, the last 4 with rapid fire switches.

My issue is, due to the angle my left hand tends to rest on WASD my pink is at an angle when I press shift or control, it never bothered me over the years. But it's starting to cause pain in the joint, probably do the pinky not lining up straight with the movement of the key press, so that the joint in the pinky and getting stress in a direction it isn't supposed to get.

When I joined Lemmy I saw a lot of posts from this community, but after the pinky problem I started wondering if a split mechanical keyboard would help, I think a more ergonomic position for my hand helps with the pinky placement.

Which brands are worth checking out? Do they have "rapid fire" or "silver" switches available? I got used to the very short key travel before it activates and I'd love to try out an ergo mechanical with the same type of switches.

Thanks for taking the time to read this, this problem is pretty damn distressing, I don't want to be hobbled in relation to my favorite hobbie.

completely open source: https://git.sr.ht/~pinsl/split-keyboard

designed using KiCad and OpenSCAD

inspired by the cheapino

I recently finished soldering a new Sofle V2. One of the keys is shorted and, when plugged in, continuously shows being pressed down. I've removed the key socket and it still happens. I've also checked all of the my solder joints on the controller and the diodes. What am I missing that could be the problem?

Finally found some fitting caps for my BRK OUT: Vintage Triumph Adler harvested from a Gabriele 9009 typewriter.

Keeb: https://github.com/weteor/BrkOut/