Hey guys. Just wanted to hear some opinions on the Hero Me system. I personally think it's an neat idea and am definitely going to build one. What do you think? Have you used it?

Having a Creality Ender 3 Pro. Have upgraded the mainboard to a new Silent mainboard. Installed this Extroduer and also have a glass bed. I also purchased another glass bed to exchange the scratched one.

What should I do about my problem? Is my only solution to buy a CR-Touch Sensor? How does the sensor even work? Will it also scratch it when I am not careful enough or is it user friendly and fully automated?

I don't have any other bed except the glas one for now. Should I rather purchase a flexible sheet for the bed instead of a glas bed?

The crown is a 3D printed replica of the crown from the movie The Green Knight, starring Dev Patel as Sir Gawain. Absolutely loved the costume design in that movie. Incorporating the halos depicted around royalty in illuminated manuscripts and other artworks into the crowns themselves to infer divinity was just so fucking cool to me. I loved the idea of turning it on its head and making an undead king.

I'll be weathering the skull mask with a lot of dark greys and blacks, and the crown to be very similar to the tarnished and corroded crown seen in the film.

@3dprinting This may not be the best example, but I have been 3d printing for about 2 years. Only recently however have I combined it with my other nerdy hobby, DND (Dungeons and Dragons). I may not be the greatest painter and not everything here is painted, but I'm very happy with the results and clarity of my prints. Everything here I printed.

Printer: Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro
Filament: 3DHoJor

cross-posted from: https://merv.news/post/130483

After the last post publicly by Naomi Wu being

“Ok for those of you that haven't figured it out I got my wings clipped and they weren't gentle about it- so there's not going to be much posting on social media anymore and only on very specific subjects. I can leave but Kaidi can't so we're just going to follow the new rules and that's that. Nothing personal if I don't like and reply like I used to. I'll be focusing on the store and the occasional video. Thanks for understanding, it was fun while it lasted”

Naomi Wu mentions briefly on her silencing and how she is not nearly as safe as she was before now that it’s obvious to the Chinese government her disappearance won’t cause an uproar of bad press making China look bad.

Printed threads and snap connectors are nice, but M3 bolts and nuts are more robust and look dope. They also make the model easier to design and print, since you don't have to worry about tolerances as much.

STEP files here: printables.com/model/548770-master-spool

Hi all! I need a high temperature (~200C) motion system for ahem reasons. I know that at those temperatures steppers tend to cook, so keeping them inside the heated chamber is out of the question. I have already considered belts, screws (lead and ball) and stainless cable. Belts will not work because they will melt. Screws do not allow for static motor mounting and stainless steel cable has slip and extreme tension. Do you guys think chains and sprockets will work? Are they precise enough? Any input is welcome.

We're happy to announce that we were successfully able to initiate a BusKill lockscreen trigger using a 3D-printed BusKill prototype!

Watch the 3D Printable BusKill Proof-of-Concept Demo for more info youtube.com/v/Q-QjHelRvvk

What is BusKill?

BusKill is a laptop kill-cord. It's a USB cable with a magnetic breakaway that you attach to your body and connect to your computer.

Watch the BusKill Explainer Video for more info youtube.com/v/qPwyoD_cQR4

If the connection between you to your computer is severed, then your device will lock, shutdown, or shred its encryption keys -- thus keeping your encrypted data safe from thieves that steal your device.

Why?

While we do what we can to allow at-risk folks to purchase BusKill cables anonymously, there is always the risk of interdiction.

We don't consider hologram stickers or tamper-evident tape/crisps/glitter to be sufficient solutions to supply-chain security. Rather, the solution to these attacks is to build open-source, disassembleable, and easily inspectable hardware whose integrity can be validated without damaging the device and without sophisticated technology.

Actually, the best way to confirm the integrity of your hardware is to build it yourself. Fortunately, printing your own circuit boards, microcontroller, or silicon has a steeper learning curve than a BusKill cable -- which is essentially just a USB extension cable with a magnetic breakaway in the middle.

Mitigating interdiction via 3D printing is one of many reasons that Melanie Allen has been diligently working on prototyping a 3D-printable BusKill cable this year. In our latest update, we hope to showcase her progress and provide you some OpenSCAD and .stl files so you can experiment with building your own and help test and improve our designs.

Print BusKill

If you'd like to reproduce our experiment and print your own BusKill cable prototype, you can download the stl files and read our instructions here:

• buskill.in/3d-print-2023-08/

Iterate with us!

If you have access to a 3D Printer, you have basic EE experience, or you'd like to help us test our 3D printable BusKill prototype, please let us know. The whole is greater than the sum of its parts, and we're eager to finish-off this 3D printable BusKill prototype to help make this security-critical tool accessible to more people world-wide!

I'm expecting my garage where I print to get well into the 90s on some days this summer.

Ordinarily, I wouldn't turn down bacon for any reason, but in PLA it looks kinda bad. Any ideas as to cause and, more importantly, prevention?

This is an “Unauthorized Personnel Only” sign that I made using my Future n0t Found typeface. It is briefly referenced in my cyberpunk short story, “Keep Portland Wired,” which is being republished in The Big Book of Cyberpunk, coming out in September 2023.

I used an adhesive magnet sheet to adhere it to a white board in my makerspace at work.

Printed using a color change from yellow to black PLA on a Prusa i3 MK3S+.

Tags

My first print (after a benchy test) with my new Sovol SV06 is the Maltese Falcon replica.

The SV06 was affordable ($229 US after a coupon on Amazon, plus a free roll of silk PLA) and it prints great after assembly. Assembly was easy. Firmware update was fast and easy. I opted for a Prusaslicer profile I found on Reddit instead of using Cura Slicer since I use Prusas at work.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.antemeridiem.xyz/post/123877

The main thing I'm not sure about is the gaps on top and the globs and strings on the top and sides. I think the gaps on the bottom might be needing to level the bed and extruders better, and maybe I need to try a raft for the warping?

I'm using a flashforge creator pro with a glass print bed and layerneer bed weld, happy to fill in any other details too. I'm new to 3d printing so I'm not really sure what all the necessary details might be needed to figure out the problem

Had a long series of failed prints, tried levelling, replacing parts, nothing worked.

Finally by chance I noticed that the LED matrix had burnt out/broken LEDs.

But where can I get a replacement? Can you do one module at a time or do I need a whole new unit?

Anyone know what settings to change in Cura to help supports leave less markings on the print body?

Hi folks,

I've been watching too many video reviews and just want a little bit of advice before I make my purchase. I'm wanting to get into 3d printing with the most satisfying results possible for around $600 CAD .

I'm looking at the Ender 5 S1 , currently for $599 CAD on Amazon. It does what I want , I think, it gets nice and hot (300C) , can use lots of different materials, auto levels, uses.usb and wifi, is quick and has a cube frame.

I suspect I would be quite happy with it. But before I go and pull the trigger, is there anything else around this price range , say plus or minus $100 , that would be better? If so what advice can you give? What models should I investigate.

Permanently Deleted

cross-posted from: https://lemm.ee/post/676343

Just finished assembling this nice Tukkari TLX enclosure for my Prusa MK4 kit... which still hasn't shipped yet lol. It's really well designed and went together pretty easily, though assembly took a while. Should keep the cat hair off my MK4... someday...

Printed with greentec pro carbon (stiffest filament I've found so far). 8 perimeters, 45% infill, top/bottom 2mm. The arms are 230mm long. The design and material of the C frame are still not stiff enough to be usable, but I'm pretty proud of the lever design. Easy to put together, durable and doesn't wiggle to much.